gil7247
VIP Member
I got my new hacksaw track and want to predrill it before I install it under the sled. I noticed on the inside there are raised nubs (approx 1/8" high) where the wheels ride between lugs. If I stud there will the nub compress enough to make it flush where these nubs are. I would add some pics but I'm having trouble resizing them. I just hoped someonelse had run into this. Thanks Gil
livewire_101proof
Member
My dad put one one that had them nubs, if I remember right it was only on the outer idlers area and wasn't a problem with studding, especially if your only studding down the center. I don't remember them being a problem
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gil7247
VIP Member
They are on both the outers and inners. I just hoped I wasn't the first one to stud a hacksaw track or they changed them and added the nubs for some reason?? Gil
livewire_101proof
Member
the pics u send are the same. i dont remember them being a problem, i know he didnt do it cause he didnt know about the nubs until after we were puting it in but if it were me i would consider a hair longer studs just cause they usually dont stick out a whole lot past the lugs anyways and them nubs are taking away a little bit.
gil7247
VIP Member
Thanks for the reply. I did come across a deal on some 1.175 woodys which are just a hair longer then the 1.075s or 1.80s I was gonna use.
snowcrazy
New member
thats not one of the cat quiet tracks is it?
super1c
Super Moderator
super1c
Super Moderator
Thats the nubs he's talking about guys. Ive no clue on this one so maybe the pic will help with an answer for him.
gil7247
VIP Member
I'm not sure snowcrazy. I got it on ebay from a company called Kens sports out of Wisconsin. It is marker "Camoplast"" and I thought usually the cat track had "Artic Cat" molded into them. I'm gonna call them tomarrow to find out just what the deal is with these tracks and I'll report back. Guy's should know about this before they buy from them. It's turning into a real PITA.
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gil7247
VIP Member
Thanks Chris I promise someday I'll figure out how to do that for myself "you know, old dog new tricks" LOL
gil7247
VIP Member
I think my only real solution to properly stud this track and have somewhat equal penetration and stud pressure would be to run slightly longer 1.175" studs anywhere I have to go thru the "nubs" (they are about 1/8" high) and use the 1.075 studs where the inside is flat. that would leave roughly the same ammount of stud protruding on the lug side within a few thousandths. Gil
super1c
Super Moderator
gil7247 said:Thanks Chris I promise someday I'll figure out how to do that for myself "you know, old dog new tricks" LOL
No problem gil, it finally let me get the other 2 pics on. Had a hard time for some reason, oh well. Up their now!
super1c
Super Moderator
Also just a thought, you could just shave that area down with a razor blade or dremel i would think with out any problems. That would even it out with your other stud marks.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
haven't seen a track like that...wouldn't the track go out and in when it hits the idler..I would look into this..does not make any sense why the bumps would even be there...super1c said:Hey gil i threw a pic up that you sent me. It wouldnt let me resize it any bigger for some reason. We will see how it shows up. Chris
gil7247
VIP Member
I solved the mystery. It is an Artic Cat "Quiet" track. This was not stated or pictured when I purchased the track. Now I have the dilemma of either making this work with 2 different length of studs (more money) or take a bath and sell this one and buy what I need. I already trimmed this one for clearence for the protector and tunnel strips (my mistake) or I would send it back and just loose my shipping. What a PITA either way it will be a expensive lesson. I guess either way I'm still cheaper than 8 hundred and something for an OEM from the dealer as some would recommend. FYI buyer beware!! GIL
livewire_101proof
Member
looked like all the hight spots were where studs are, and all the low spots are where the lugs are so you would use all the same length, the longer ones - cause every stud will be on the high spot. good luck i did notice that when he went from an oem to the one like that it rolled allot easier but he was also going from clipped every 3rd to clipped every window so that may have been it also. really helped him though cause he had to run so tight a track before ( it was a 136) to stop ratcheting
gil7247
VIP Member
UPDATE: I spoke with some of the guys at Studboy. They're only about 10 miles from where I live. What a good group of guys! They recommend I drill my pattern into the track, then trim down the nubs where the heads go thru the nubs (you're right super1c) They assured me it would be fine and that they've done it even on race sleds with no vibration or other idler problems. I guess it's just a little more work. Their attitude and assistance has definately made me a Studboy fan. It's all about service!! Gil