Are 1.175" studs too tall for a 1" hacksaw?

gil7247

gil7247

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I came accross a deal on some 1.175" gold diggers that I want to put in my 1" hacksaw track. But I'm concerned they might be too tall. If not I will go with the 1.080 woodys or 1.075 studboys. I'm looking at either 96 or 144 down the middle. What do you guys think? Thanks Gil
 

1.175" is just more pressure on each stud compared to 1.075 or 1.080, and over time the lugs on your track will wear down a bit making the gap even greater between the top of the lug and tip of the stud. I would go with the woodys or studboys, and 96 down the middle should be fine depending on the riding you are doing?
 
You could get away with 1.175" and I suppose if you can get a good deal on them it may be worth looking into. How old is the track? Condition?
 
I have a new hacksaw I'm putting on my viper, but you're probably right for the fifty bucks I may save it's probably not worth the risk. I was leaning towards 96 down the middle w/round backers. Bluemonster , what kind of 1" track did you put on? My hacksaw has these nubs on the inside that stick up about an eighth of an inch where the idlers ride and I'm concerned about the heads not drawing down enough??
Gil
 
I am putting a Kimpex Traxtion 1 inch track on,but it is not here yet.I had a Predator '1"before.Not sure about them little bumps you are describing..but should pull down with stud.
 
I have used 1.175 with the stock .920 track and 1" tracks.You have better penetration and the hook up is awesome.
 
If I'm doin my math right the 1.175 studs should be sticking up a little less then 3/16ths above the lug. If thats okay I can save some money. Of course I'll just dump it into something else fot the sled,LOL!!
 
Yeah can get away with it, it just seems like an awful lot of pressure on each stud because of the greater clearance which will only increase as the lugs wear down, sounds like it worked for pro ^^^ give it a shot!
 
3/16 is a perfect height for traction.With 144 you will have more tracttion then someone with a 192 1.075 because they don't penetrate as far and you have less rolling resistance with less studs.I have ran 1.25" studs already but had to add material to the protectors.
 
bluemonster1 said:
keep your track tight.I had longer studs in my original track and man did it ever eat away at the exchanger fins and tunnel..just a warning....
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X2 - I use a 1" Kimpex aggressor with 144 1.175" Gold diggers inside and out and run the track at factory specs to avoid contact with the rear HX (which is protected).
 
good thing the cooling fins on the front exchanger are long..Mine in certain spots are gouged out half way in..still far enough freom the actual exchanger..thanks to the guy I bought the sled from.It had stock track with longer studs,don't have any here to measure because they were dull and threw them all away.My 1.075 are perfect for the 1 inch track.When I pin iy on ice..I take a good section of ice out..so they are constacting.To long and you may bend them when they contact something hard..and then pull out..
 
snomofo said:
X2 - I use a 1" Kimpex aggressor with 144 1.175" Gold diggers inside and out and run the track at factory specs to avoid contact with the rear HX (which is protected).
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Your setup would be more compititive than the same with 075 studs on ice handsdown .Wont last as long as 144 shorter up the middle but alot more fun.






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I had a real good conversation with a couple guys at Studboy today (I only live about 10 miles from them) After solving my problem with my Artic Cat "quiet" track and answering about a million other questions, I'm sold on studboy if for nothing else but the service. So I'm going with 144 1.080 up the middle.
Gil
 
bluewho said:
Your setup would be more compititive than the same with 075 studs on ice handsdown .Wont last as long as 144 shorter up the middle but alot more fun.


It's light years ahead of the stock Yoko with 196 1.075" (which isn't saying much).

The track is ten years old and is much beefier/heavier than most. The lugs are thick which seems to help when the starting line gets chewed up on ice.

IMO - judicious use of the throttle in marginal conditions has made the difference in avoiding tear-outs.
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