Whats the tallest lug and stud height I could put on a stock yamaha viper
Agpetro
Member
1.25in track with 1.325in studs.
gil7247
VIP Member
From what I found with my research in doing my02 viper er . Everyone says 1.25" with no studs or 1" and 1.80 or 1.075 studs. If you change drivers to 8 tooth you're ok to stud 1.25. Atleast that's what I was told by everyone I asked and the guys at Studboy.
Gil
Gil
Agpetro
Member
gil7247 said:From what I found with my research in doing my02 viper er . Everyone says 1.25" with no studs or 1" and 1.80 or 1.075 studs. If you change drivers to 8 tooth you're ok to stud 1.25. Atleast that's what I was told by everyone I asked and the guys at Studboy.
Gil
My 03 viper ER and my Dads 02 Vmax both have 1.25in ripsaws that are studed with the stock 9 tooth drivers. You do have to trim the track in the track window around a 1/4in so it doesn't rub the front heat exchanger and tunnel protectors. Which doesn't take 15 minutes to do both sides.
Would that also be true for an SRX that has a Viper skid in it?
Agpetro
Member
twyztid said:Would that also be true for an SRX that has a Viper skid in it?
Im not a expert with yamahas but don't they have the same chassis?
Yes...
Agpetro said:Im not a expert with yamahas but don't they have the same chassis?
I have a Viper skid in my SRX and it seems to me that anything larger than 1.175" would beat the rear HX. If I run my track on the loose side of spec I get contact at the rear HX even with protectors.
Perhaps a non-issue for Vipers without the rear HX but if you plan to install a rear HX (as recommended) keep this in mind.
From what I've read and seen, for a no-issues install with studs the prevailing wisdom is 1" and 1.075". Some suggest letting the protector wear away the lug but I clipped mine with tile nippers.
Agpetro
Member
snomofo said:I have a Viper skid in my SRX and it seems to me that anything larger than 1.175" would beat the rear HX. If I run my track on the loose side of spec I get contact at the rear HX even with protectors.
Perhaps a non-issue for Vipers without the rear HX but if you plan to install a rear HX (as recommended) keep this in mind.
From what I've read and seen, for a no-issues install with studs the prevailing wisdom is 1" and 1.075". Some suggest letting the protector wear away the lug but I clipped mine with tile nippers.
My viper has a srx rear heat exchanger on it and I haven't had any problems with the track or studs hitting it. Its a bad idea to let the protectors wear away the lug then clipping it. Had a friend buy a viper that had a 1.25in track on it. The previous owner never clipped the track and he found it wore through the front heat exchanger protectors. I know everyone says a 1in track with studs is the best way to go. I understand that because its indeed trouble free of having studs not hitting the heat exchangers. Thats what i had on my viper when I bought it. But i can tell ya once I put a 1.25in track studded on my viper, i will never go back to a 1in track.
Agpetro said:My viper has a srx rear heat exchanger on it and I haven't had any problems with the track or studs hitting it. Its a bad idea to let the protectors wear away the lug then clipping it. Had a friend buy a viper that had a 1.25in track on it. The previous owner never clipped the track and he found it wore through the front heat exchanger protectors. I know everyone says a 1in track with studs is the best way to go. I understand that because its indeed trouble free of having studs not hitting the heat exchangers. Thats what i had on my viper when I bought it. But i can tell ya once I put a 1.25in track studded on my viper, i will never go back to a 1in track.
Not sure why you're experience is different than mine but unless I run the track tighter than I like, it does contact the rear HX.
I've also read that without clipping the track, the vibration can work the protectors loose.
Agpetro
Member
My track is looser then spec but still doesnt hit the rear exchanger.

super1c
Super Moderator
Agpetro i dont doubt your luck with a 1.25 studded track with 9 tooth drivers and studs but i just dont know how you do it. I got stud marks on my 1.25 studded ripsaw with 8 tooth drivers and i run my track to spec if not tighter. I also never leave the ground, so i guess "things that make you go hmmmmm".
Agpetro
Member
super1c said:Agpetro i dont doubt your luck with a 1.25 studded track with 9 tooth drivers and studs but i just dont know how you do it. I got stud marks on my 1.25 studded ripsaw with 8 tooth drivers and i run my track to spec if not tighter. I also never leave the ground, so i guess "things that make you go hmmmmm".
Where are the studs hitting on your viper?

super1c
Super Moderator
Agpetro said:Where are the studs hitting on your viper?
Rear heat exchanger. Havent really got under the front good enough to check that one.
Agpetro
Member
super1c said:Rear heat exchanger. Havent really got under the front good enough to check that one.
Well I checked out my viper this morning and there is one little spot where studs hit the back heat exchanger at some point. I dont know if its the same spot yours is hitting or not. I dont understand. Its not on the heat exchanger, its on the protectors where no studs are at and its only on one protector.

livewire_101proof
Member
Could be anything, rocks ... track itself maybe, st least u got protectors and they served their purpose in saving the exchanger. Maybe u just are not bottoming out as much as others on here and that is why ur not hitting the rear cooler. As for the front I did run that setup for a while on an srx and it worked but not much more room, then I had a stud starting to pullthrough and it got the front cooler before it finally let loose, something to watch for. I ended up getting smaller drivers along with a cooler. Front ones are in more danger for more aggressive riders that are under hard braking alot, that's when the track has some slack and the front cooler catches hell.
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Agpetro
Member
livewire_101proof said:Could be anything, rocks ... track itself maybe, st least u got protectors and they served their purpose in saving the exchanger. Maybe u just are not bottoming out as much as others on here and that is why ur not hitting the rear cooler. As for the front I did run that setup for a while on an srx and it worked but not much more room, then I had a stud starting to pullthrough and it got the front cooler before it finally let loose, something to watch for. I ended up getting smaller drivers along with a cooler. Front ones are in more danger for more aggressive riders that are under hard braking alot, that's when the track has some slack and the front cooler catches hell.
I have never bottomed my sled out for some reason and Im not a small guy either.
WIsnoRyder
New member
A 1.25in track with 1.325in studs?? Thats a lot of weight. Id hate to see your top end loss. Personally, I recommend a 1" Hacksaw with 1.175" gold diggers. I switched from a 1.25 ripsaw and gained 4MPH on top end.
But hey it's your world
But hey it's your world
Agpetro
Member
WIsnoRyder said:A 1.25in track with 1.325in studs?? Thats a lot of weight. Id hate to see your top end loss. Personally, I recommend a 1" Hacksaw with 1.175" gold diggers. I switched from a 1.25 ripsaw and gained 4MPH on top end.
But hey it's your world
I have had my sled up to 116mph in a 1/8mile on my road. But never did a top speed yet. Doesnt seem like the track and studs are slowing me down. Really doesnt matter to me because i dont take my viper to drag races.
WIsnoRyder
New member
116 on speedo or radar/gps??