brake rotor help!

mattyg1405

mattyg1405

New member
Joined
Oct 5, 2009
Messages
499
Age
38
Location
east haven, CT
i was wondering if anyone whos done the job of replacing the brake rotor could just give me a quick run down of what tools i will need, and about how long the job is? ive never done it, is it big job?
does the chaincase come apart? will i need any other parts other than the rotor?
my sled is in storage miles from home so im gonna bring the parts and tools to it and do the job...

i would really appreciate any help as i only have a couple of weeks before we play in the grass.
 

To replace the rotor, you will need to remove the brake caliper and the parking brake mechanism. The hardest part, not really hard just a bit of a pain, is to remove the parking barke mechanism. Take a few pictures of the area before disassembly to have as a reference. I think it was alos easire to remove the brake parts if you unbolt and lift up the small coolant tank. Next, drain the chaincase by removing the drain bolt in the tunnel. This bolt has a rubber coated washer seal under it. Remove the tab which guides the recoil starter rope then remove the chaincase cover. OK, a slight change.....drain the chaincase, then take the cover off. Before you take the brake caliper off, use it to hold the rotor from turning while you remove the bolt from the end of the jackshaft and the driven axle. Now take the brake caliper off. Onec the brake caliper is off, do not touch the brake lever or else you will move the brake pads in. Loossen up the chain tensioner then you can take the chain off then remove both gears. You can next remove the bolts holding the case to the frame. OK, another change, make sure you loosen the tension on the track as he first step, the track MUST be loose!!! OK carefully slide the chaincase off the driven axle and jackshaft. I believe there is a snap ring holding the rotor onto the jackshaft. The rotor should float side to side on the shaft so it should slide right off. If it does not float, you'll need to clean off the inside of the rotor and the shaft.

For tools, here is what I remember:
wrenches 10, 12 and 14 MM
sockets 10, 12 and 14 MM
snap ring pliers to expand and outside type snap ring
small vise grip to manipulate the parking brake springs
3" and 6" socket wrench extensions
Drain pan to hold about a pint of fluid
Torque wrench for reassembly
Loctite for the jackshaft and drive axle bolts

Depending on the age of teh sled, you may find a lot of sludge in the bottom of the chaincase. You may want to change the upper and lower rubber lip seals on the case. Inspect the bearings, I believe the upper and lower bearings are 6205. Check the chain for wear and broken links.
 
For a time estimate, I have removed, replaced a bearing and seal in the chaincase and reinstalled it in about 2 hours in the parking lot of our sledding hotel 2 years ago. As long as you have the tools in a warm, dry, well lit area, I would say 3 hours if you do not need to replace bearings or seals. The seals are and easy process to remove and replace. You'll need a snap ring pliers to remove and internal snap ring on each of the chaincase bearing then you could use a propane torch to gently heat the case and a socket of teh correct size and a plastic mallet to drive out the old bearing(s). To install a new bearing, you will need a socket or arbor to push on the outer bearing race and gently heating the case with a propane torch will reduce the insertion force, just do not overheat it!!
 
thanks guys should go smoothly now that i have an idea of what to do lol

im gonna let the bearing stay since i just changed them last year before the caliper/rotor failure
 
mattyg1405 said:
thanks guys should go smoothly now that i have an idea of what to do lol

im gonna let the bearing stay since i just changed them last year before the caliper/rotor failure
Click to expand...
What kind of problem are you haveing(poor brakes) or?




.
 
i had a master cylinder fail, and got the rotor very hot the caliper would stick, i literally thought it was gonna catch on fire so to ger it home i had to pack snow on it, in return warped the rotor like a potato chip.
 
i got everything off tonight , but i cannot get the rotor off the jackshaft...

any tips?
i may try a puller or some heat tomorrow

what a pain in the butt everything went smooth until the rotor wanted to marry the jackshaft
 
I would remove the jackshaft and lay it in a vise with the hub on top or put the gear end on the floor and knock the hub down after some penitrating fluid has been sprayed.

If you pound it off on the sled it is hard on the clutch side bearing but could be shimmed behind the secondary to stop this.This is likely the problem of your brakes because the roter wont float it rests against the inner pad and burns out.


A little shot of oil when the carbs are off on the keyway once a year is the ticket!


.
 
I'm gonna try some heat and penetrating oil and see what happens hopefully I don't have the take it out , I'm limited on tools where it is
 
My caliper is dragging on the rotor. Started after I had this all apart to change bearings. I can pry them open with a screw driver then give the brake a couple pumps it comes tight, but wont totally release. Think its dirt or something? What should cause the brake to release? Maybe wrecked the master cylinder kit if I pried them too far open while removing or installing the assembly? I had the assembly off but not apart other than the park brake. :dunno: Thanks for any help.
 
I just spayed some penetrating oil in and let it sit pulled the chaincase off as I was pulling on the rotor there's a key way in there it gets stuck to that make sure u don't loose it good luck
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top