coreysask
New member
Now that I've done something stupid...I'm looking for advise.
I have a 98 SRX 600 that I obviously didn't tighten the lock nut on the chain tightness adjuster when I changed gear lube in fall. Soooo...after my first 30 k ride yesterday it was growling when I got home. Damage report...chain is a little more polished on the teeth and the upper gear is pitted on the top 1/2 of the teeth. It has the stock 23 gear on top. The chain doesn't feel sloppy or binding.
My question is...what should I replace? Should I go with the stock 23 gear or would a 22 be better? I know it should get new gear and chain, but I'm thinking just the gear.
Thanks,
Corey
I have a 98 SRX 600 that I obviously didn't tighten the lock nut on the chain tightness adjuster when I changed gear lube in fall. Soooo...after my first 30 k ride yesterday it was growling when I got home. Damage report...chain is a little more polished on the teeth and the upper gear is pitted on the top 1/2 of the teeth. It has the stock 23 gear on top. The chain doesn't feel sloppy or binding.
My question is...what should I replace? Should I go with the stock 23 gear or would a 22 be better? I know it should get new gear and chain, but I'm thinking just the gear.
Thanks,
Corey
S
srx_eh
Guest
Did the same thing with my SRX7 the other day, ...only ran a few miles and could barely get the machine on the trailer. Retightened the chain and she runs like a champ. I'll check my gears this summer and replace the oil.
If you are under 175 pounds keep the stock gearing. Heavier riders benifit from a lightly lower gear.
coreysask
New member
I went with the stocker 23 gear...the SPI 22 gear wouldn't go onto the shaft. Bummer.
coreysask
New member
Now you guys got me thinkin...maybe I will order another 22 gear.
But...that provokes another question. It currently pulls to just under 9000 (maybe 8800) rpm with the stock gear and yamaha belts. It should be down around 8300...right? Is there an easy way of doing this? By what I've read it's either put a heavier tip weight on the primary...or change the preload twist on the secondary (or maybe new spring????).
The secondary seems like an easy thing to do.
I would have to remove the primary cause I can't get those damn allen screws out and I don't have clutch tools...seems much more difficult.
But...that provokes another question. It currently pulls to just under 9000 (maybe 8800) rpm with the stock gear and yamaha belts. It should be down around 8300...right? Is there an easy way of doing this? By what I've read it's either put a heavier tip weight on the primary...or change the preload twist on the secondary (or maybe new spring????).
The secondary seems like an easy thing to do.
I would have to remove the primary cause I can't get those damn allen screws out and I don't have clutch tools...seems much more difficult.
8bu-00 weights, 2.4 gram rivet in tip, pivot empty, 45/39 helix, silver secondary spring at 60 degree wrap...hang the hell on!!!
coreysask
New member
Have a parts bin I can borrow from!?!
How about a solution under a hundred bucks?
How about a solution under a hundred bucks?
98srx6
New member
Put a new belt in your srx and let us know what rps it runs at.
If you are still overreving after putting in a new belt, then you will need to add primary weight to bring your rpms down until you are at ~8300.
BTW...if you have the money the setup turk recommended you will make your sled really run hard. He knows this sled really well and has probably one of the best reputations of any yamaha tuner.
If you are still overreving after putting in a new belt, then you will need to add primary weight to bring your rpms down until you are at ~8300.
BTW...if you have the money the setup turk recommended you will make your sled really run hard. He knows this sled really well and has probably one of the best reputations of any yamaha tuner.