dragonsm
Member
Alright, I did some searching and found plenty of links here and there, but I still have some questions.
My 98 SRX 600 (my first sled) has the KYB shocks. Last year I was in a bit of a "honeymoon" period with it at first and never really paid much attention to the shocks. When I bought the sled, what I thought were "good shocks", I am now beginning to think maybe they need rebuilt......
I'm heading up to where the sled is stored the weekend of the 15th and was planning on spending the day really going through the rear skid and seeing what shape it is in.....(may be a decisive factor on whether I get more serious on a skid swap with an m10 or mono...though I don't want to get to crazy modifying the sled.....)
Is there an easy way to check the rear shocks on the skid or do I need to just remove them and check the compression? From what I have read on the pioneer website, the KYB's are rebuildable....however, are they really worth spending the money to rebuild/revalve? Replace them and if so what are the recommendations? (I have been keeping my eyes peeled for some ohlins...but they are tough to come by!) The honeymoon period is over for me with this sled, and as I reflect....I remember really feeling dang near every bump and washout on the trails here in MN....and being very stiff/sore after even a longer afternoon ride - 60-100 miles......and if I can eliminate a little of it with proper rebuilt shocks, I'm game!
I ride really only trails, ditch trails, and lakes here in MN and never really been one to jump the sled (unlike my brother in laws...which has led one of them to crack the frame in half)....I like to keep the power on the ground!
Any advice is appreciated! I know this topic has been beat to death in this forum, however I seem to try and "overanalyze" everything and end up even more confused.
Maybe the above with a set of aftermarket skis will be my focus this year...would love a little more "float" in the front end while racing across the lakes with some powder on them.
Thanks!
Steve
My 98 SRX 600 (my first sled) has the KYB shocks. Last year I was in a bit of a "honeymoon" period with it at first and never really paid much attention to the shocks. When I bought the sled, what I thought were "good shocks", I am now beginning to think maybe they need rebuilt......
I'm heading up to where the sled is stored the weekend of the 15th and was planning on spending the day really going through the rear skid and seeing what shape it is in.....(may be a decisive factor on whether I get more serious on a skid swap with an m10 or mono...though I don't want to get to crazy modifying the sled.....)
Is there an easy way to check the rear shocks on the skid or do I need to just remove them and check the compression? From what I have read on the pioneer website, the KYB's are rebuildable....however, are they really worth spending the money to rebuild/revalve? Replace them and if so what are the recommendations? (I have been keeping my eyes peeled for some ohlins...but they are tough to come by!) The honeymoon period is over for me with this sled, and as I reflect....I remember really feeling dang near every bump and washout on the trails here in MN....and being very stiff/sore after even a longer afternoon ride - 60-100 miles......and if I can eliminate a little of it with proper rebuilt shocks, I'm game!
I ride really only trails, ditch trails, and lakes here in MN and never really been one to jump the sled (unlike my brother in laws...which has led one of them to crack the frame in half)....I like to keep the power on the ground!
Any advice is appreciated! I know this topic has been beat to death in this forum, however I seem to try and "overanalyze" everything and end up even more confused.
Maybe the above with a set of aftermarket skis will be my focus this year...would love a little more "float" in the front end while racing across the lakes with some powder on them.
Thanks!
Steve
If you are going to pull the skid anyways, it doesnt take much to remove the shocks. To check if they are worn out, measure the length of threads that are showing below the spanner nut and record that data for re-installing the spring. Loosen the spanner nuts (can be done with a hammer and large screwdriver) with a spanner wrench. Remove the spring from the shock and place the shock on something sturdy that you can put your weight on, i.e. the floor. Push down on the shock, If the shaft moves in extremely easy and/or makes a kind of squishy noise and doesnt return to fully extended on its own,they need a rebuild. If the shaft has some resistance in it when pushed and moves in slower and returns to fully extended on its own, it is good. Oil filled shocks dont always return on their own even if they are still good but gas filled shocks should.
If you want more travel and a better overall ride, I would do a little research on buying and installing '03+ Viper shocks. The '02 shocks, if not re-valved, were extremely stiff and are rather uncomfortable for trail riding. Otherwise have Bruce at Pioneer Performance rebuild/re-valve your stock KYB's to your weight/riding style or to the factory valving.. pretty cheap price to pay to have your sled ride better than new. Pioneer Performance - Shock Rebuilding
Another thing to think about.... If you are going to pull the skid out and go over it, you might as well go ahead and order the bushings for it and bring some GOOD low temp grease with you. Replace the bushings and check the idler wheel bearings for play, (just wiggle the wheels) usually a little bit of wiggle is acceptable. If you really want to get fine tooth comb nuts, you can re-pack the idlers with the same grease you used in the bushings. Personally, I use a marine grade grease that they sell at Fleet Farm called Mystik. It comes in a green can and seems to stay quite soft at lower temps.
If you want more travel and a better overall ride, I would do a little research on buying and installing '03+ Viper shocks. The '02 shocks, if not re-valved, were extremely stiff and are rather uncomfortable for trail riding. Otherwise have Bruce at Pioneer Performance rebuild/re-valve your stock KYB's to your weight/riding style or to the factory valving.. pretty cheap price to pay to have your sled ride better than new. Pioneer Performance - Shock Rebuilding
Another thing to think about.... If you are going to pull the skid out and go over it, you might as well go ahead and order the bushings for it and bring some GOOD low temp grease with you. Replace the bushings and check the idler wheel bearings for play, (just wiggle the wheels) usually a little bit of wiggle is acceptable. If you really want to get fine tooth comb nuts, you can re-pack the idlers with the same grease you used in the bushings. Personally, I use a marine grade grease that they sell at Fleet Farm called Mystik. It comes in a green can and seems to stay quite soft at lower temps.
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Team Parent Racing
Member
Bruce at B Line Control does all our race and trail sleds. He can set them up to your specifications. Bruce is out of Lindstrom, MN.
Without knowing the condition of either the skid or the shocks, I'd pull the skid and BETHEVIPERize it (overhaul/blue-print it - search = tighten up yours) along with shock overhaul/revalve. I'm guessing you need to do both. Might as well pull the fronts and rebush the radius rods and spindles too. If it's as I suspect, neither the front or rear has been serviced which, if thats the case, it's long overdue.
For a point of reference, many here and I pull the skid annually.
For a point of reference, many here and I pull the skid annually.
dragonsm
Member
Thanks for the responses. One question I do have in regards to this process. I had zero intentions of bringing the sled back with me this early as there are a few "home" projects I was hoping to get done with the extra garage space before I bring it back. (have to get a nursery ready for January)
Time may be a bit of an issue since my daughter will be up there also running around "Grandpa's and Grandma's"....
I am assuming I can yank the front shocks off along with remove the skid and let the sled sit until I can get back up there middle/end of November? Sled is stored inside and won't need to be moved. In this "condition" what would be the proper way to store it? (need to block it anywhere?) Don't have a snowmobile lift but plenty of wood blocks and 2x4's.....
I know if I really "tear" into the skid and give it the once over (which I am somewhat confident I can do with all the knowledge on this site) it's probably a project I won't be able to finish in a days time. I'd rather get it "right" than to rush it.
Steve
Time may be a bit of an issue since my daughter will be up there also running around "Grandpa's and Grandma's"....
I am assuming I can yank the front shocks off along with remove the skid and let the sled sit until I can get back up there middle/end of November? Sled is stored inside and won't need to be moved. In this "condition" what would be the proper way to store it? (need to block it anywhere?) Don't have a snowmobile lift but plenty of wood blocks and 2x4's.....
I know if I really "tear" into the skid and give it the once over (which I am somewhat confident I can do with all the knowledge on this site) it's probably a project I won't be able to finish in a days time. I'd rather get it "right" than to rush it.
Steve
super1c
Super Moderator
Storing will be no issue, just pull the skid then block up the back and front and pull the front shocks. Heck i had my front ent on a cooler sitting on top of a moving dolly. Once you have all the bushings and shocks back from rebuild putiing it back together will be a simple afternoon job. You can nickle and dime the rest while your waiting on your shocks.
sleddineinar
VIP Member
Like Team Parent Racing I use Bruce at B-Line Control also, he very good to work with, usually does the shocks while I'm BSing with him. He is former Yamaha tech.