i recently aquired these pipes in a trade plus cash on my end deal, for my 02 yamaha viper. these are hauck racing pipes. but i am usure of what style. i know hauck used aeens and simons cpr from what ive read i think the ones i have are the same as the simon cprs but wanted to be sure. i uploaded a coulpe pics of them hopefully they show up in the thread lol. they are real snarly looking. and kinda wrap around eachother. also.... i honestly have no idea what i should be running for jetting and clutching to maximize the power otta my sled without nuking it. even if someone could get me close i would appreciate it. any sugestions ideas would be awesome. my altitude jetting wise is around 1600 feet i believe... i would have to double check that tho.
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SWEDE
New member
Those are the Simons Cpr Hauck pipes I remember the ads and from some people who ran them. Journeyman may be able to help you with setup as he ran them on his Viper years back.
160,160,162.5 mains, needles at 4, 47.5-50 pilots with fuel screws at 1.5 out from lightly seated. If it seems blubbery in mid range cruising take the needle shims and place both of them on top of the clip, this will clean it up some.
run the engine at 9100 rpm, you can get there a bunch of differnt ways with differnt profile weights, if your aggressive 8ca weights work well with these.
run the engine at 9100 rpm, you can get there a bunch of differnt ways with differnt profile weights, if your aggressive 8ca weights work well with these.
thanks for the responses, that info will get me well on my way to where i need to be. now that i have an idea what im working with, i should be able to dial her in. thanks a bunch to both of you!!
Mac
Member
Jeff Simons told me to run 9100 rpm off the line slowly increasing to 9300 at the end off the pass. They do run strong.
staggs65
Moderator
the viper I just picked up has these same pipes. thanks for the thread and the replies on the jetting. I went with the 8ca's andrew and had a few replies from my want ad. if you decide to go this route I might still have some of the members that had them and didn't buy in my PM's and can pass them on to you. I'll have to check though
hey staggs, were you able to get away with the 8ca weights without any other clutching changes? i have done some extensive research and clutching is still a foriegn language to me. and have read on different clutching setups to attain the same result. granite different gearings can come into play here as well as extra mods.... As to what people are talking about when they talk technical on clutches. will have to do more research i suppose. and also the stock head has a lower compression on the pto cylinder. and i have gathered from threads that the sled needs to be a little more rich on the mag side cylinder..... why is this? have also searched jeffs jetting. same jetting as described above for the pilot and mains given you are going #1 pto #2 center #3 mag needles 4th clip on all but.... 2 shims on top for pto and center. and 2 shims below for the mag. granite jetting is different sled to sled for the perfect happy tune because all motors are different. and we all dont live at the same place. so mabey i already answered one of my questions as ive been reflecting as i write....
staggs65
Moderator
Your gonna need to change everything to get the most for your application. I'm no clutching guru myself. I usually get suggestions for what I'm trying to do from the guys here that are good at it and make adjustments from there to suit my sled
Andrew if anyone know the jetting for those pipes and machine MR.VIPER is your man as he whoops on the boys from your neck of the woods when it comes to drag racing... MR.V is a hellova motor builder...(sorry Don had to plug ya).
dont get me wrong Sxr700Bandit. Am definitley not doubting what Mr. Viper said at all.... But i like to be like a sponge and soak up as much info as i can... knowledge is power. And i do not have much knowledge when it comes to these sleds. so an inquiring mind must ask why and what if.
No, no offense taken.
Nice sig line Andrew.
If you dont already know your main tuning for Rpm will be done in the primary and the fine tuning for how your sled reacts will be done in the secondary by using different helixes and different twist angles for shift out and back shift. Also look for a book by Olav Aaen called the clutch tuners hand book it has ton of useful information.
BTW welcome aboard.
Nice sig line Andrew.
If you dont already know your main tuning for Rpm will be done in the primary and the fine tuning for how your sled reacts will be done in the secondary by using different helixes and different twist angles for shift out and back shift. Also look for a book by Olav Aaen called the clutch tuners hand book it has ton of useful information.
BTW welcome aboard.
thanks, il definitley check into it. once i figure out how the different internal parts of the primary and secondary clutches work. and what they affect tuning wise i should be able to come up with a good setup that would work for me. and of course from other peoples past experiences.
staggs65
Moderator
aaens book is in the tech pages
[QUOTE the stock head has a lower compression on the pto cylinder. and i have gathered from threads that the sled needs to be a little more rich on the mag side cylinder..... why is this? [/QUOTE]
with the design of the head of the viper the mag gets the least amount of cooling and it has a higher compression ratio then the pto so it runs the hottest on a viper. Put the bigger jet and needle setting on the mag for sure or youll be visited by mr.squeeky piston for sure.
As for the other 2 cylinders you still need the neddle raised some to make it live in the mid range, as said before you can go in between 3 and 4 with moving the shims around if it blubbery, all depends on temp you ride at and type of clutching you use.
with the design of the head of the viper the mag gets the least amount of cooling and it has a higher compression ratio then the pto so it runs the hottest on a viper. Put the bigger jet and needle setting on the mag for sure or youll be visited by mr.squeeky piston for sure.
As for the other 2 cylinders you still need the neddle raised some to make it live in the mid range, as said before you can go in between 3 and 4 with moving the shims around if it blubbery, all depends on temp you ride at and type of clutching you use.yeah, i dont think i wanna meet mr. squeeky piston either! thanks everybody so far for all the helpful info!!!
ok ive done some reading and i understand how clutching works a little better now. could anybody recommend a starting point clutching setup for the hauck cpr pipes. that would complement a set of 8ca weights for mainly moderate to agressive trail riding?
mopar1rules
Active member
andrew k said:
49/37 bender helix
so if i were to use 8ca weights stock ywy spring in the primary. (seems to already be a stiff spring) un known amount of weight in the tip. as i have not tested anything yet. bender 49/37 helix with a green spring at 60 to 70 degree twist. this is a theoretical concauction i came up with, with also the help and ideas of others of coarse. was just wondering would i be doomed for failure or could i make this work as a good starting setup. for fine tuning as needed? 
mopar1rules
Active member
Would be a good starting point. I used a red @ 60 and would have to check my notes on the primary spring I used, but I do believe it was the stock y/w/y.
yeah, a red would prolay be the better ticket. that helix already has a shallow finish angle. so i shouldnt need a whole lot of spring pressure. to keep the belt clamped. i dont wanna rob myself of hp by going too stiff. definitley worth a shot. thanks for all the help guys.