Anyone using these?
If so how long does the install take?
What are the advantages?
If so how long does the install take?
What are the advantages?
LAVA. said:Anyone using these?
If so how long does the install take?
What are the advantages?
You will gain more ground clearance so the tunnel isn't dragging when riding off trail in deep snow.
Anytime uou lower the rear of the skid though you lose weight transfer and will be a little more tippy on the trails.
Just got mine in the mail ... I hope I don't lose to much handling I just wanted some extra clearance for ditch banging!!!!
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let me know how your install goes
It might be a few weeks I am still looking for a track
pro116 said:
These look like they raise the rear about the same as a M10 would
Yea thats what I thought to... looks cool if anything!
When you put them on, how much do you guys lower the middle mount? and how much do the DB lower the rear mount?
You lower the center mount half the distance of the rear mount. I cant remember but I think the rear is dropped out either 2-3 or 3-4 inches (two holes in each mount). You have to lower the holes on an arc, you cant just go straight down, otherwise it changes geometry and the skid will bind. Thats the only hard part.
they lower the skid 2.5-3.5 inches
Use a template to do the measuring! I can't stress that enough.
A couple of bucks
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Nothin major, but you also will have a pretty heafty headlight adjustment after you get it installed.
A couple of bucks said:
good point, I didn't think about that
Thx
A couple of bucks
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I had an issue w/ the install w/ CB's brackets. You(I) have to actually tilt the brackets towards the front of the sled, so that you maintain the proper distance that the factory holes are from the factory positions.(redundant?) I originally put them on with them perpendicular w/ the tunnel, as the grooves are machined in the brackets, "BUT", that made the distance for lining up the mount distances from the front to rear hole off to where the suspension was "binding"/ locked up. I had to re-drill all the new rivets out and re-position the mount at a canted angle towards the front. To get the proper distance, so that the brackets set against the heat exchanger cut-outs, the brackets had to be machined. I know I have the proper distance now, as I took a thin piece of flat aluminum bar(1/8" thick) and drilled a bolt hole where the front suspension bolt mounts through and then drilled a second hole where the ractory rear suspension bolt mounts through and then re-positioned it through the drop brackets hole of choice to maintain the proper arc or mount angle. It was not possible to get the proper canted angle/distance w/o machining the back of the brackets to accomodate the heat exchanger. Just something to me aware of so as to not place too many holes in your tunnel. Or my brackets were just not machined properly from the get go 
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did you drill your middle holes down and towards the rear the first time
romig said:
If that is directed towards me, yeah, that wasn't the issue, it was the front to the rear mounting holes. The distance from the front to the middle hole was fine.