i took my pipes off today on my 98 srx 700 and i had oil in one of the pipes if you are looking at the sled its the cyl all the way to the right i think its number 1 is this normal.
it was not fogged for the summer i started it and let it run for about 15 mins every other week
it was not fogged for the summer i started it and let it run for about 15 mins every other week
jr6877 said:
Can you post a picture?
i can tomorrow its at my shop i also took out the power valves number 1 and 2 were dirty and when i took off the 3 the valve stayed like the end of the cable came off i think i usally clean them every year and this was a first
SRX500kid
New member
it was not fogged for the summer i started it and let it run for about 15 mins every other week[/QUOTE]
i do to every on thinks it is bad but my opinion is if it starts and runs good its fine!
i do to every on thinks it is bad but my opinion is if it starts and runs good its fine!
One thing if you start it often, you will get a ton of extra fuel and oil in the pipe from not running it hard under load... you can also foul plugs not letting it come up to temp and running it hard not allowing it to reach full operating temp.
so you think that could be why ? the last ride of the year it ran great
jr6877 said:
You could run it on a track stand and really get it nice and hot... I am sure most of that will go away... pics still would help.
i do to every on thinks it is bad but my opinion is if it starts and runs good its fine!SRX500kid said:
[/QUOTE]Yamaha specifically warns against this practice along with storing with fuel. I too know folks who continue to do this and have not had issues (except glogged PVs) but why risk it.
Drain and fog is the best approach.
Devilin AblueDress!
New member
i do to every on thinks it is bad but my opinion is if it starts and runs good its fine!SRX500kid said:
[/QUOTE]For 20 bucks worth of fogging oil and a half days time I summerize 3 sleds. They sit all summer no oh yeah I need to start the sleds again. I spend another half day cleaning carbs,reassembling airboxes putting belts back and putting gas back in tank. Ride all winter and repeat. I look at as protecting my investment. I picked up a 96 polaris in july for next to nothing, I started it every other week and rode laps around the back yard. differance being if old polaris beater craps out...So what, Yami craps out....I might break down and cry!
davidgboy
New member
the good thing about running sled every so often is that u move the primary clutch bushings back and forth on the shaft(spider) removing any oxidation. assuming u rev it enough to engage the belt and "upshift" it some. i like to move moving parts on a regular basis. just make sure u run it long enough to bring it up to a decent temp. use some fuel stabilizer also. no more than is recommended. may want to avoid when there is very high humidity. wait til cold front goes thru. do it in the evening not early morning.
davidgboy said:
After fogging I spray EVERYTHING (except the belt, seat and hood) with silicone spray or Amsoil metal protector.
The clutch comes off during pre-season prep and washed with soap and water.
I think if anything you'd want to leave the oxidation as a protective barrier agaist further corrosion... or protect it from forming in the first place.
I did the 'start once a week' thing with my first new sled in 1990 but started fogging when I began seeing milky oil at the exhaust outlet.
I think there is an increased risk for corrosion of internal parts with the use of E10.
my .02
davidgboy
New member
you may be right about the gas. not what it used to be. i do know that the bushing on the sliding sheave needs to move on a very smooth clean surface on the spider, or it can gouge the bushing. same for the cover bushing. it is more practical to do the fogging and let it be. not sure overall if it is better. i dont like machines to lay idle very long(more than a couple of months). my new generator(4stroke) manual says to leave in gas(with stabilizer) when not in use. as far as 2 stroke sleds go, matter of opinion probaly. do need to keep crank (oily). i just want to hear the baby run now and then to know it is still alive. smell some smoke. i have to admit though i have thought about a 4 stroke. nah! maybe someday.
davidgboy
New member
maybe fogging and popping off primary and storing it in a dry stable enviroment would be a good idea.
mod-it
Member
They say to not start through storage because combustion creates moisture...most do not run them enough to get them up to operating temps. If it gets up to operating temp, then supposedly the moisture created will evaporate. Hard to get them up to temp without putting on a stand, and "guessing" when it's good.
If you do this year after year without getting it up to temp, then the moisture winds up down in the crank...which means rust. I would prefer to buy a used sled that has been fogged over it's storage period hands down to one that hasn't, ESPECIALLY if it was started periodically. This is a recipe for an earlier crank failure vs one that has been stored per the manual. Ask any sled mechanic what they think is the #1 cause of the failed cranks they've replaced...
If you do this year after year without getting it up to temp, then the moisture winds up down in the crank...which means rust. I would prefer to buy a used sled that has been fogged over it's storage period hands down to one that hasn't, ESPECIALLY if it was started periodically. This is a recipe for an earlier crank failure vs one that has been stored per the manual. Ask any sled mechanic what they think is the #1 cause of the failed cranks they've replaced...