After 12 years of wanting this sled, I finally got one. 2000 SRX 700. 2100 original miles. 1 owner. Now the questions from the experts.
What should compression range be, Should I get the power valves rebuild or cleaned? Looks to have been untouched for a while, leaky exhaust donuts, Power valve seem to be leaking, looks to me like she needs some new gaskets. Seems to idle and run good so carbs seem ok, but its a touch warm temp wise so....
Any thing else anyone can think of to look at.
Thanks in advance...
AJ
What should compression range be, Should I get the power valves rebuild or cleaned? Looks to have been untouched for a while, leaky exhaust donuts, Power valve seem to be leaking, looks to me like she needs some new gaskets. Seems to idle and run good so carbs seem ok, but its a touch warm temp wise so....
Any thing else anyone can think of to look at.
Thanks in advance...
AJ
Compression on all 3 cylinders should be within 5% of each other over 120 PSI. Take carbs off and clean them. Take Power Valves out and clean them. Adjust servo motor. Download service manual, change chaincase oil, inspect exhaust donuts. Clean and inspect clutches, check for alignment.
YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
SRX_700 said:
3:16 (yammie tony)SRX_700 said:
I would add that your leaking PV is probably from the weephole caused by leaking PV shaft seals and/or cable end o-rings. Send the PVs to Yamahahead for -better then new- rebuild, new seals/o-rings.
With the carbs off inspect the reeds and intake boots.
I'd personally pull the skid as well and tighten it up per BetheViper's write up and inspect/replace the speedo side drive axle bearing. Now would also be a good time to swap tracks if it still has the Yoko it came with.
The track is a 1.25 rip saw, I will just send the PV out to be rebuilt, and put new shaft bearings in, might as well do exhaust donuts too. Thanks for the help guys. anything else if you think of it...
AJ
AJ
-Adjust oil pump cable
-Adjust choke cable (important for SRX, they start hard in cold)
-Check hyfax
-check W-arm for cracks
-check spark plugs (might have wrong ones in, should be BR9ES)
Why do you think its running hot? you could check the thermostat while youre doing everything.
-Congrats on the buy, theyre an awesome sled when tuned right.
-Adjust choke cable (important for SRX, they start hard in cold)
-Check hyfax
-check W-arm for cracks
-check spark plugs (might have wrong ones in, should be BR9ES)
Why do you think its running hot? you could check the thermostat while youre doing everything.
-Congrats on the buy, theyre an awesome sled when tuned right.
Plug should be be9ecs
snopax said:
Plug should be BR9ECS threaded AL terminal .028 - .032 gap.
BR9ES work just as well and dont cost $10 per plug. Only benefit to the ECS is its supposed to help fouling, but Ive never had a plain ES foul on me. But you guys are correct, BR9ECS is the listed correct plug
Don't use BR9ES. You may risk to burn down on long lake pulls.
IF someone has a chance could you compare the ES to the ECS plug.... If I remember correctly the ES electrode is longer(dimentionally wise) than the ECS putting it closer to the piston.
That is the difference. The electrode on the ECS plug is shorter. This allows more edge firing to occur. It also dramatically shortens plug life. It's an old racers secret. They use to shave back the electrodes on their plugs for better spark. NGK is nice enough to do it for you.
As far as cost, I get mine from a local chain auto parts store for around 5$. Not sure where 10$ came from. Not much difference in cost. It is also the plug recommended for the engine.
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Go Ascii Art?!
As far as cost, I get mine from a local chain auto parts store for around 5$. Not sure where 10$ came from. Not much difference in cost. It is also the plug recommended for the engine.
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SRX_700 said:
Thank you for correcting my typo... Yes BR9ECS
page 5 of this post, shot of the ECS. http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=34241&page=5&pp=10
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snopax said:
yep, thats right, the shorter elctrode is supposed to help with long wide open pulls,not transmitting as much heat to the piston crown, however, I have never seen damage done to one with the regualr br9es either. I usually use a bit better plug and use the finer wire race plugs in my own stuff. Either way youll be fine its not gonna cause engine failure in normal riding I can assure you.
aja636 said:
Looks like the guys hit most of the for sure to do items, I always like to drain the chaincase oil, remove the cover and adjust the chain/sprockets. Let it have 1 inch total chain movement back and forth, replace cover and fill it up with ATF, yes ATF.
confirm all the clutching and jetting to be correct, so if you run into a rpm problem youll know what you have to work from already.
mrviper700 said:
ATF, I thought I was the only one....LOL..Always did that on the race sleds, keeps everything lubed, with less drag then typical gear lube. And keeps everything clean. But you run that on trail sleds?
What RPM does this motor like?
8500rpms
i do and never had problem