Race Logics Porting Templates 700 Redhead

mrviper700 said:
sx600abuser, youll need the mains in the area I have suggested or you will have engine failure, built alot of those with the single pipe. Race logic is not taking into account the case work and larger reed cages(moves alot more air, when you add air, you have to add fuel), because they are selling you only a cylinder template not case porting specs. If you dont jet it up you will not run it for long without engine failure....

also, peel 1 layer from the headgasket when you reassemble it to get back your lost compression from porting the exh. port.
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Ok, I will run richer mains. I was planning on peeling 2 layers of gasket off. I figure one to make up for the lose and 1 for luck...lol I should be fine with that right? Thanks everyone for your help.
 
SX600abuser said:
Ok, I will run richer mains. I was planning on peeling 2 layers of gasket off. I figure one to make up for the lose and 1 for luck...lol I should be fine with that right? Thanks everyone for your help.
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your gonna want to have the squish set up around .055-.060" for trail riding with pump gas91-93 , this should be within those ranges with 1 layer removed. Youll need to check what you have there because of tolerances when the engines made, they are not all the same. when you get to that point ask and i can help you do that.
 
toydoc said:
Don, thats very cool your looking over this post and giving info and tips... with Pictures. Can't beat that
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X2 on that! Not many engine builders would do that.
Great thread also! Alot of good info. Gotta love this site!! :rocks:
 
nothin wrong with a little "do it yourself " buildin........... ;)! The whole reason to mod something is to improve it, he/you might as well get the full monty from the work put forth. The reason most wouldnt do it is because its always about "the money", I could care less, its about a yamaha runnin good!. :2strokes:


checkin squish with solder is fine as long as you stay same direction to the wristpin so the piston doesnt rock in the bore. ;)!
 
A couple of bucks said:
I've never done this, but was always told that solder wire was a good way to check it. That's is OLD SCHOOL. Any better ways. What's your thoughts.
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yep soft solder is a great way to go, always make sure you place the solder directly above the centre of the piston pin and do BOTH sides of he psiton when you do it ;)
 
I've done some poking around on this and haven't come up with much. Since it's considered mild trail porting, I assume the gains are from midrange all the way through top end? Is it on the order of an extra 1-5 or 6-10 hp?
 
supercharged111 said:
I've done some poking around on this and haven't come up with much. Since it's considered mild trail porting, I assume the gains are from midrange all the way through top end? Is it on the order of an extra 1-5 or 6-10 hp?
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Based off the information I read, including Don's post, nobody really dyno's the ole' red heads anymore. With that said, everything is a guess. I am shooting for 125-135hp. Now I suspect the mild port will still bring around 5-10hp and complemented with the viper reeds I believe will produce an additional 2-5hp. Again this is just a guess based off of collective thoughts.
 
yamalars said:
X2 on that! Not many engine builders would do that.
Great thread also! Alot of good info. Gotta love this site!! :rocks:
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X3!! I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge on this topic, Don. Thank you!!!
 
Hey Sx600abuser.... Have you payed attention to the amount of time that one cylinder is taking you? The first cylinder will take 2-3 times as long, but the other two should be relatively the same amount of time. Also the next trick is to make each cylinder a mirror image of the others...
 
mrviper700 said:
Your doing a good job so far, I hope you dont mind a couple suggestions, I did some "paint" on your pics in areas where I would spend a bit more time to make your job come together. :2strokes: On the cylinder pic:

a.)grind the floor from side to side in a tapered(exh port opening at flange) flat area

b.)remove the humps on eash side of the floor

c.)make sure you get the exh booster ports opened up all the way thru with a nice radius top/bottom edges from inside to exh port opening.

d.)open up your exh port outlet to be the same as the gasket is, most imtes on a redhead, you open them up quite a bit, they were really mismatched in size.

Case:

1.)I would run a round taper on the bottom of the case opening up into the area of case opening

2.)taper the sides of your skirts to allow the round tunnel ports to operate without a square edge in there, make the opening a little closer to the opening on case, your close there already.

The motor will move alot more air with this being done and will require bigger jetting to go with it, hope you ground out the sides for the srx/viper reed blocks. Jetting should be around 148-low 150's mains,needles on 3 , 45 pilots in winter riding. You still want to use a set of reed spacers. This is all still very noticeable on a single pipe engine, they pull alot of clutch weight over stock. Never had one on the pump as theres not much r/r going into redheads anymore but they make very respectable power gain. Your doing a good job keep up the good work! ;)!
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How do these specs fall into the mix?

Turks Tuning Tips (SX Triple porting)

Port Down From Cylinder top Width

Main Exhaust 30.7mm 49.25mm

Sub Exhaust 35.5mm 10mm

Main Trans Stock Stock

Side Trans Stock Stock

Rear Trans Stock Stock

The cylinders heads are then cut .35mm

*Note: Cylinder tops were cut in place of head cut, as cylinders overall height were not even in stock form.(0.1mm var.) This port work provides T/A (time/area) for in excess of 140 145. hp.
 
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