Running Board Heat Exhanger Removal - how to?

E

ekmoor

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Mar 19, 2007
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NJ
My running board heat exhangers are leaking...so time to remove them. Do you drop out the skid to gain access to the rivets by the foot well? Or remove the foot well/guard? Any other tips? Just started drilling the easy ones first...a hand held grinder on the heads also works well but you need to be careful.

any issues with the hoses? Thanks...Ed
 

I used a right angle drill attachment (cheap Harbor Freight Tool) and my skid was already out. Had them welded once, but it didn't hold because it was at a stress point. So I just bought new ones from yamaha.
 
Depressing....did the weld fail in the same place? Is this a wear thru issue or frame flex issue that makes them leak originally?
 
Mine was a flex issue I think because I had installed an M-10 skid. It cracked on the inside beveled area just below where the rear suspension mounting bolt sat. The weld only lasted half of the next season.
 
I did the right side two seasons ago, that was a PITA as I had to take the case off, If I remember correctly to get to where the hose goes on. I did the left side last season. A Lot easier. I may have dropped the skid to get to the rivets but I actually don't remember. Both of mine were leaking behind the metal plate that re-enforces where the rear bolt goes through. I bought "good" used ones.
 
I installed an IQ skid into mine...thinking the same, too much flex but sure handles alot better thru the bumps.

I got an estimate from a shop of 1 hour to remove...may take them up on it.
Is it worth buying used rather than re-weld?

Thanks,
Ed
 
I got an estimate from a shop of 1 hour to remove...may take them up on it.
Is it worth buying used rather than re-weld?

Thanks,
Ed[/QUOTE]

I believe I paid between $85-100 for each one. Mine, where they set behind that steel plate were pitted and were thin. I'm assuming that sand/dirt builds up between that plate and the exchanger rubbing it thin till it starts to weep through the thin aluminum exchanger. The replacements didn't show sign of too much scuffing. One hour shop time may be well worth it, in my opinion, especially if it is the right one!
 
Both sides are weeping....the right side needs the chain case removed?
 
I also used an air-rivet gun from Harbor Freight Tools. Those stainless steel rivets broke my hand held rivet gun on the first one. I got all the rivets from Fastenal.
I would say an hour worth of labor at a shop is WELL worth it. I had way more than an hour in on each side, but I basically had the whole sled apart to clean and polish and check everything over, replace bearings on the drive axle, etc. This was my 2001 SXR and at the time it had over 20,000 miles on it. I was putting my third track on it also! :letitsnow
 
Second the Harbor Freight pneumatic rivet gun. Buy the 1/4" model. I've had mine for over 3 yrs and pulled a lot of Rivets w/ it. Make sure you get your 20% off coupon!!
 
I already have the air riveter....but found it was too fast in pull down in did not get a good tight fit. So I ended up using a hand riveter. Maybe for this application, it will be ok since it is not load supporting.

Thanks,
Ed
 
Seems to be a weak point behind the rear pivot mount. Sand and salt sits behind there and wears the aluminum on the exchanger. Had both of mine welded and lasted along time.
 
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