Front exchanger replacement


easiest thing to do is to remove engine and then pull the pin on grenade, toss it under the hood and step back, be a little "boom" then you can remove the old one with a shop vac!!...LOL!!

its not fun or easy, you have to remove engine completely, then unbolt steering post, then drill out rivets, also they are a snug fit in there.

If possible, if it just has a hole in it, likely it can be welded in the chassis. Remove track/skidframe,etc and then stand it up on the bumper, wash it out real good then preheat it with mapp gas, then tig weld the hole, much easier job.
 
Like Mr Viper said if you can get it patched while its still in the sled then do it, its a real pain to pull out. My buddy pulled his skid, track and driveshaft and brought it to a rad shop. They repaired it in about half an hour and only charged him 40 bucks.
 
i did the same thing, real pain to do so the last one i had, i hung the sled from its front bumper on a chainfal and had it welded up. it was realy bad to, about half way to getting to the front side of the cooler (i questioned if it would b ok or not) helps if u can find a buddy good at alluminum welding. it seemed to hold up after that, i put on another 12 to 1500 miles on after that before i sold the sled, still was fine.
 
get it weld if you can i dint do one on a viper but changed one on 04 rx1 it a big job but can be done just time and a lot of work so i would weld if i could there was no welding this one at all
 
Total Pain in the A@$. This one was not repairable. It was totally destroyed.
We got the old one out and new one in, but with alot distruction to the tunnel. What a crappy design. 30 some rivets hold the damn thing in.
 
Im doing one on a sxr 700 now.I dont plan on pulling the motor.I removed the coolant hose from the motor that goes to the heat exchanger.I pulled the rear suspension.I still have to remove the drive axle and track.Then,i plan to chisel the old rivets off from inside the tunnel.From there i think i can pull the exchanger and hose out as one unit.It is easier to pull the motor but i dont want deal with clutch alignments.
 
blueblooded said:
Im doing one on a sxr 700 now.I dont plan on pulling the motor.I removed the coolant hose from the motor that goes to the heat exchanger.I pulled the rear suspension.I still have to remove the drive axle and track.Then,i plan to chisel the old rivets off from inside the tunnel.From there i think i can pull the exchanger and hose out as one unit.It is easier to pull the motor but i dont want deal with clutch alignments.
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I wish you luck with that! How do you plan to get at the steering arm mounting bolts? There are lock ears that you have to straighten to undo the nuts then somehow get in to remove them. Pretty much impossible to do unless you pull the motor or at the least cut a hole in your bellypan right below the mount. I'd rather have to realign the clutches... its not that hard to do.
 
sasksrx..any snow there yet..you receive them jets yet...lol its only been a couple of years..Post Office is sure slow...supposed to be some snow starting here next week and temps start to drop...can't stand waiting anymore.Hve the need for speed..
 
No, haven't got them yet. Must still be sitting on a shelf somewhere in a Winnipeg postal outlet! Lol! Strange what happened to them... its not like they were sent across north america!
We have about 6 inches here... just enough to be a teaser, not enough to go riding yet. My throttle thumb is getting itchy too!
 
Nope, its not riveted. There is a mount that is welded right onto the exchanger. And there are four bolts holding a 2 piece plastic bushing that the steering arm goes through. There are "lock ears" that are bent up against the nuts that you have to flatten either with a chisel or a screwdriver so that you can loosen the nuts. I replaced mine a couple years ago and I tried to look at every way to get at it and just decided to pull the motor. It was the easiest way to do it.
 
Well looks like im pulling the motor then...thanks.Im doing this for a friend and he didnt want to buy a clutch puller and alignment tool if he didnt have to.
 
I didn't have an alignment tool so I marked where my engine was sitting with black marker before I pulled it. When I put it back in I lined it up right back where it was. I checked it later at a buddys who had an alignment tool and it was bang on. As for the clutch puller, you MIGHT be able to twist the motor around to get it out of the way to get at the exchanger without pulling the motor right out but I would think it would be kind of awkward. Might be worth a try though if you don't have a puller yet.
 
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