the factory sheave obviously has the numbers marked for adjusting the spring tension.......
My question......
How do you know what the holes represent on the actual roller assy???
It takes the place of the Helix.... but there are 5 holes instead of 4 and they're all next to each other....
Olav told me to set it to 2 - 9..... 2 is easy, where the heck is 9??? LOL
Thanks for any help and direction guys!!!
Storms
My question......
How do you know what the holes represent on the actual roller assy???
It takes the place of the Helix.... but there are 5 holes instead of 4 and they're all next to each other....
Olav told me to set it to 2 - 9..... 2 is easy, where the heck is 9??? LOL
Thanks for any help and direction guys!!!
Storms
staggs65
Moderator
you should be able to set your old helix over the aaen assembly line up the bolt holes so the 6 and 9 holes are over the aaen holes and see which hole corresponds with the 9 hole
bluewho
Active member
Yes as staggs says and the 9 should be the farthest away from the ramps when you go to preaload the twist to drop over the studs,6 would be a little less twist.
Thanks guys!!!
Its just really confusing with the holes layed out completely different....
It also seem extremely hard to wrap!!! Way more tension than a stock clutch has when wraping it to 70# with a green spring..... guess it needs the extra tension for quicker backshift, also makes sense that it can pull more tension with so much less drag on the ramps!!!
Its just really confusing with the holes layed out completely different....
It also seem extremely hard to wrap!!! Way more tension than a stock clutch has when wraping it to 70# with a green spring..... guess it needs the extra tension for quicker backshift, also makes sense that it can pull more tension with so much less drag on the ramps!!!
staggs65
Moderator
thstorms said:
exactly right. without that extra tension it'll shift out way too fast. you'll like that clutch for trail riding. I kind of regretted getting rid of it.