tripplec
New member
I had a look preparing the sled for the season. Not having the carbs off since dealer worked them over a few years ago. I was amazed at everything attached to the airbox. Even if that was all taken care of removing the carbs are quite the challenge. I appears that they have to be removed together. There is a shaft connecting both together. I pulled the top covers off and this is totally a different carb design than what I have seen inside but cleaned up the top section with carb cleaner. No piston like in the old Formula STX which I just did. I would like to get under as well and flush out the fuel bowl while I am at it.
I am looking for pointers here. I have seen plenty of carb cleaning posts but none are smart carbs or this build as in my Venture.
I am looking for pointers here. I have seen plenty of carb cleaning posts but none are smart carbs or this build as in my Venture.
smokingcrater
Member
Never cleaned up a venture's carbs, but I don't think they are much different from my vmax. Getting them out isn't nearly as hard as it looks, maybe 15 minutes. Yes, you take them out together, in fact, you never separate them even.
Pretty much just take the airbox out (couple screws), then unscrew the hose clamps on the boots on both sides. Unscrew the top of the throttle cable and release the cable, and then unscrew the fuel enricher from each carb. Finally, lift the carb up so you can get to the hoses on the bottom, and remove those.
But I agree, cleaning the top portion only is pretty much worthless. The parts that gunk up (jets) are at the bottom.
Pretty much just take the airbox out (couple screws), then unscrew the hose clamps on the boots on both sides. Unscrew the top of the throttle cable and release the cable, and then unscrew the fuel enricher from each carb. Finally, lift the carb up so you can get to the hoses on the bottom, and remove those.
But I agree, cleaning the top portion only is pretty much worthless. The parts that gunk up (jets) are at the bottom.
New O-Rings?
I am in the process of cleaning my carbs on a 1998 Vmax.
Some of the float bowl screws are pretty stripped, so I ordered some of those..
Is it a good idea to replace the gasket (Yamaha calls it O-ring) between the float bowl and the carb body or can you get by without?
Thanks!
I am in the process of cleaning my carbs on a 1998 Vmax.
Some of the float bowl screws are pretty stripped, so I ordered some of those..
Is it a good idea to replace the gasket (Yamaha calls it O-ring) between the float bowl and the carb body or can you get by without?
Thanks!
smokingcrater
Member
usually you don't need to replace it. i've had my carbs apart probably a dozen times without any trouble from the gasket
tripplec
New member
I just put my assembly back together. The sled started on the first pull.
However, I'll tell you its not for the faint at heart. There are more wires and hoses than many cars. I did not disconnect the pair of carbs from all the hoses or cables. There are way too many adjustments going on and electrical connections to them. I got it out of the rubber boots and was able to remove the bottom plugs to flush the gas out and carb cleaner flushing. I had a lot of crud at the front and around the 3 lower holes and flushed it all out after wiping most of it away first.
My breather air intake filter sponge is extremely brittle and I took it off to get a new one somewhere.
However, I'll tell you its not for the faint at heart. There are more wires and hoses than many cars. I did not disconnect the pair of carbs from all the hoses or cables. There are way too many adjustments going on and electrical connections to them. I got it out of the rubber boots and was able to remove the bottom plugs to flush the gas out and carb cleaner flushing. I had a lot of crud at the front and around the 3 lower holes and flushed it all out after wiping most of it away first.
My breather air intake filter sponge is extremely brittle and I took it off to get a new one somewhere.
ryan2001sx600r
New member
I would pull them off, it's easy and there is not much too it. Pull the airbox and the job is easy. I don't even think you have the heated carbs so that is one less line you need to pull. Two wires for the TORS is all the electrical that is hooked to them.
Devilin AblueDress!
New member
I agree with pull em off all the way. It may help putting it back together if you have a roll of masking tape and a sharpie marker for labeling stuff. Hard to be 100% positive you have 100% completely cleaned them withthem still on. And whats worse is that you could have made it worse by busting crud loose and moving it around. Some what scares me that sled started first pull. If carbs were completely cleaned then no way no how should it start first pull. As always...Just My Opinion!

bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
just my thinking also..if carbs were cleaned properly..then they would not start 1st pull..maybe 20 to 30 pulls until float bowls fill up or gas down plug holes to speed up the process..
smokingcrater
Member
bluemonster1 said:just my thinking also..if carbs were cleaned properly..then they would not start 1st pull..maybe 20 to 30 pulls until float bowls fill up or gas down plug holes to speed up the process..
Yeah kind of thinking the same... There should be no fuel left if they were cleaned, and its going to take some yanking to get them filled.
tripplec
New member
I had the bottom drain plugs out and everything flowed out including the carb cleaner I had been spray through the intake holes and down the main jet pin. I washed the body gate (its flat not a round piston) from both sides. I put the drain plugs back in last and worked on remounting them. It took a while getting them over the boots together. Plugged the various wire cables all back in and double checked I had not missed a connector. I could not flip the carbs completely over with all the other wiring and linkages so I did the best I could.
Maybe I should start a new thread but I had read some other posts some time ago and cannot find them now on other sleds about the fuel or air screw preset. The is a sticker on my sled and I believe its 1.5 turns (I don't have reference to it now) some people are say to increase this to 1 7/8 turns.
My question is does this then richen or lean the machine??? (Opening the screw more)
I did not like the power output level at the idle speed of around 1500-1700RPM and tried it two years ago about 2500PRM but it would bog horrible trying to get going and the engine would not rev up to move away. I would work the trottle and after a minute or so (seemed like forever) I was able to pull away. This happened a few times and I set the RPM's back to where they were again. I adjust that via the main trottle cable tension adjustment.
Maybe I should start a new thread but I had read some other posts some time ago and cannot find them now on other sleds about the fuel or air screw preset. The is a sticker on my sled and I believe its 1.5 turns (I don't have reference to it now) some people are say to increase this to 1 7/8 turns.
My question is does this then richen or lean the machine??? (Opening the screw more)
I did not like the power output level at the idle speed of around 1500-1700RPM and tried it two years ago about 2500PRM but it would bog horrible trying to get going and the engine would not rev up to move away. I would work the trottle and after a minute or so (seemed like forever) I was able to pull away. This happened a few times and I set the RPM's back to where they were again. I adjust that via the main trottle cable tension adjustment.

staggs65
Moderator
opening/loosening the screw richens it. when you raised your idle rpm the way you did if you didn't readjust your cable slack you were activating the tors and that's why you had that bog tat wouldn't let it rev up
tripplec
New member
I'll try it richened a bit then this year more than spec. As for the TORS I was reading the printout of the manual and recall that its suppose to be set at 2800RPM and verified by pulling out the hinged end of the throttle lever. I'd say i went to 2400. But it says to see your dealer if its not set right.staggs65 said:opening/loosening the screw richens it. when you raised your idle rpm the way you did if you didn't readjust your cable slack you were activating the tors and that's why you had that bog tat wouldn't let it rev up
Anyway, waiting for snow here and quite mild with rain today in the double digits. I'll see how it runs once there is some snow since I have some fields 1/2 km up a private rd to test a bit on before the trails open.
Thanks for the feed back.!!!