Mountain Performance transfer straps?

Backwoods M Max

Backwoods M Max

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Mar 31, 2011
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Location
New England
Just wondering who has the strap kit and what do you think of it? I watched the sled tuning video again and tried to figure out how it works with the transfer bars removed. If it mounts between a rear crossmember/axle and the scissor link then is it limiting the up travel to the end of the uncoupled travel? Or is it just a better way to adjust the travel limit before coupling occurs? The weight savings has me strongly considering it but I wish MPI had install and tuning instructions available so I could read more before I pull the trigger on it.

Thanks,

Jon
 

whatever the case, they work for off trail applications. read that as deep snow. wouldnt suggest using if your a trail rider who rides trails, but if youride trails to get to the deep stuff, easy to get adjusted to the handling quirks. i have installed several sets. if you want a copy of the install instructions, let me know.
 
I agree with snowdad4. I only ride trails to get to the deep where the transfer straps work excellant. The trails are ruff and bumpy, but I have been able to adjust riding style to get through them and actually don't notice much of a differeance. But if you spend alot of time coming into turns fast and wanting to hit the throttle in the turn, your bound to miss them and fly off the trail. Been there and done it. Soc
 
I would like to see the install instructions if you have them as a pdf or other digital file. I mostly ride at an estate turned state park which is all open fields and fire roads, nothing is groomed. The other place I go it's a short section of groomed trail to reach the mountain trail.
 
only way to get the instructions from me is by the good ol' postal service. sorry, i have no other way of copying or sending but the copy machine along with a stamp and envelope.

give me your mailing address via private message if you want a copy.
 
I just installed a set on my SXR 121" track. I set the straps in the middle or neutral position. I have about 3" of set in on the suspension, front and rear. Do I need to tighten up the rear shock since it is uncoupled from the front? Al
 
as with any suspension change, your going to have to play with it. i have never put those on a short track sled but on the long tracks i run usually the +3 or +4 setting. i typically set the rear shock to the softest setting and increase the preload on the on the center shock.

track, snow and rider weight will factor in to your settings. play with all and find the best for you.
 
The tighter the straps, the less ski lift (-) you will have. To increase the ski(+) lift you have to increase the limit straps. Do you have a copy of the instructions?
 
I do have a copy of the instructions, but they don't say which way for proper adjustment. They just recommend the middle adjustment to start with. The papers do say which positions are + and which are -. Thanks for the update. Al
 
Yeah, you really have to read carefully to figure it out. But it would really make it easier if they'd just tell which way gives you more ski lift, plus or minus.
 
With drop brackets and stock trans rods may sled will sit right on the trans rods stops with no prob. I want a soft ride will adj trans rods or strap kit fix it?
 
I started looking at this more last night. If you tighten up the strap, you also slightly compress the rear suspension, closing the scissor. While sitting on the floor, flat the rear of the track is lifted, if you loosen the strap you are essensually opening the scissor and the rear of the track lays flat on the floor.. However I was thinking the strap or configuration has no dampening of the amount of transfer which will be in effect. Just the initial amount. If the strap is tight, the front of the skid is basically on a rocker and the rear skid is held up, thus allowing for easier weight transfer to the rear before the suspesion compresses. If the strap is lengthened the skid is flat and less initial transfer ie, no rocker effect. But under acceleration, the weight transfer will compress the rear and thus ski lift will occure. Has anyone played with the spring pressure change due to removing the transfer rods?? The type of riding we do is laboring ourselves on the trail to find an ungroomed two track of deep snow and meadows of deep snow. We seem to put on alot of miles each year trying to find the fluff. lol Al
 
Just so everyone knows - I recently tried to order a transfer kit from Mountain Performance for my 99 MM and they told me that they are no longer making any parts for 2 stroke Yamahas any more. Even though it still appears for sale on their web site. I was a little pissed!
 
Fwiw I found the straps didn't do anything for me in tight, steep chute climbs. I bought an ez-ryde skid to go into my mm, but the transfer bars are going back on the stock skid for the day it goes back in and the ez-ryde comes out. The un coupled suspension is fun to play, but when it gets serious full throttle climbing in tight places the rear skid will just tuck up and dig a hole and your done. While it is more fun to wheelie around, it's not productive.

In all my research with aftermarket skids I found that all of them are a coupling design. I settled on the ez-ryde because it's modular design means it will fit anything you want to put it in over a given track range and is easily adjustable to control ski lift. There new mounting brackets allow 1/4" adjustment of the front arm height which is your transfer control, and it drives all the energy into the chassis through the single arm. That upward compression effect on an uncoupled skid of the rear arm is turned into forward drive by pushing through the single arm.
 
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