totalrecall
New member
Hi all, Im a transfer from the TY4stroke forum, but here it goes.
Im working on my brothers sled, he has a 1997 Vmax XTC 600 twin. Last year he told me he has antifreeze on his plugs, so it sat for the summmer, and we just put it in my garage last week. First thing i did was a compression test, and both cylinders have 125 PSI, but yes there was antifreeze in the plug. I told him it was the head gasket, and we ordered one. We put the gasket on today, and before trying to start the sled checked compression again, and still 125 PSI. Went to start the sled, and NO GO. pulled the plugs and antifreeze on them. after looking here and there, i found a large amount of antifreeze in the exhaust, and tried cranking with the exhaust pipe off. there is antifreexe coming out of the exhaust ports. Since the cylinders are seperate i am assuming that the base gasket is shot. Are there any other places I should be looking?
Thanks
Im working on my brothers sled, he has a 1997 Vmax XTC 600 twin. Last year he told me he has antifreeze on his plugs, so it sat for the summmer, and we just put it in my garage last week. First thing i did was a compression test, and both cylinders have 125 PSI, but yes there was antifreeze in the plug. I told him it was the head gasket, and we ordered one. We put the gasket on today, and before trying to start the sled checked compression again, and still 125 PSI. Went to start the sled, and NO GO. pulled the plugs and antifreeze on them. after looking here and there, i found a large amount of antifreeze in the exhaust, and tried cranking with the exhaust pipe off. there is antifreexe coming out of the exhaust ports. Since the cylinders are seperate i am assuming that the base gasket is shot. Are there any other places I should be looking?
Thanks
rx1jim
New member
It sounds like the coolant has been sitting in the crankcase all summer. I would highly reccommend completely disassembling the engine and have the bearings on the crankshaft checked. You could go through a lot of work to correct the problem only to have a major engine failure due to corroded bearings.
totalrecall
New member
So then it is safe for me to assume the only other place it can be leaking fluid is in the base gasket?
Is there any other ways i can test to make sure or is it only tear it down ans see what is up?
Thanks again
Is there any other ways i can test to make sure or is it only tear it down ans see what is up?
Thanks again
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
you will have to tear it down,,especially if the bearings were sitting in coolant all summer..may have to replace bearings but that will be like near $1000..May have to look for a good used crank instead..
totalrecall
New member
Thanks for the replies, but before i tear it down is there a way to test where antifreeze is coming from. I understand that once i get the jugs off i need to inspect the crank, block, bushings, brarings all of that. my plan is to put my scope in the block once i take the cylinders and head off. I just do not want to tear it down and put it back together and still have the problem. I was not on the sled when it happened and can not make any assumptions on what caused it. also i do not know huw much antifreeze is from last year or this year trying to start it. When i scope the inside of the lower end ill have a good idea of that. If it is from this year it has only been in there for about 24 hours.
totalrecall
New member
one other thing jumped into my head, While the gasket was on order he broke the head bolts loose without draining the system. It sat with the bolts loose for a few days before we got the gasket in. the antifreeze MIGHT have come from there, and last year there COULD have been just a small amount from the head gasket. Scoping the block should show any damage in there. I just do not know how to test the base gasket.
Again i am not sure what lead up to the origional problem, i am just trying to figure out what is wrong with it now.
Thanks again
Again i am not sure what lead up to the origional problem, i am just trying to figure out what is wrong with it now.
Thanks again
ryan2001sx600r
New member
i think you found your problem. Keep the plugs out and keep pulling it over, slowly at first until it clears the anti freeze. It should eventually get 99% of it out and then it would be safe to start it and the residual will clear fast.
rx1jim
New member
If the cylinder head bolts were loosened BEFORE the cooling system was drained then that is definitely the source of the antifreeze. You need to assume the coolant got into the crankcase so you need to NOT let it sit but flush it out.
If you do need the crankshaft to be inspected and repaired, Jeff at Midwest Crankshafts in WI is the place to go. It will cost a lot less than $1000 to repair it. I had one SRX crank rebuilt for $280 and another repaired for $180.
If you do need the crankshaft to be inspected and repaired, Jeff at Midwest Crankshafts in WI is the place to go. It will cost a lot less than $1000 to repair it. I had one SRX crank rebuilt for $280 and another repaired for $180.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
if all bearings have to be replaced in worse case situation..you are at around $1000. Another member on hear had a thread where he priced them out and it was not cheap..but if coolant was in there for a short spell..you may be good,if all summer then another story.Still should crack cases open I hate to say and inspect closely.Nothing like bearings exploding when you are runing wot and taking cover from all the debris that will be flying ..
totalrecall
New member
Thanks for the input,
End result was the loose head bolts. I turned it over until very little fluid came out of the exhaust ports, and then was able to get it to fire. After a bunch of run and turn off after a few seconds, it cleared rght up. granted i probibly should have tore the head and lungs off, but my brother claims it ran great, and sat for a few days and that was when he noticed the antifreeze on the plug. That being said we should be ok taking a chance with it.
Well once again thanks guys for your input
End result was the loose head bolts. I turned it over until very little fluid came out of the exhaust ports, and then was able to get it to fire. After a bunch of run and turn off after a few seconds, it cleared rght up. granted i probibly should have tore the head and lungs off, but my brother claims it ran great, and sat for a few days and that was when he noticed the antifreeze on the plug. That being said we should be ok taking a chance with it.
Well once again thanks guys for your input
Devilin AblueDress!
New member
Let me start with just my .02 But 125 compression before and after head gasket swap? Leads me to think that wasnt original problem. Other possibiltys bad seal/bearing in/on water pump/oil pump shaft? Was anti-freeze on both plugs originally or just one? I wish you guys the best of luck but I would keep a close eye on it for a little bit.
totalrecall
New member
I believe just one, but not totally positive.
The watchfull eye for the first few rides was part of the plan. He is low on cash, and are attempting to save $$$$. Honestly if it was my sled i would tear it down. He also bought the sled from me about 4 years ago, i had crank seals done the year before i sold it to him and there is only about 2,000 miles on them, that is another reason its worth taking a chance in our opinion.
Thanks again for the help.
The watchfull eye for the first few rides was part of the plan. He is low on cash, and are attempting to save $$$$. Honestly if it was my sled i would tear it down. He also bought the sled from me about 4 years ago, i had crank seals done the year before i sold it to him and there is only about 2,000 miles on them, that is another reason its worth taking a chance in our opinion.
Thanks again for the help.
ryan2001sx600r
New member
125 psi isn't too bad if it is even. build up tests aren't that good of an indicator of engine life. The gauges may or may not be accurate, etc.
You can do a full leak-down test (not a combustion chamber leak-down test). But it sounds like it is already partially disassembled.
For the full leak-down test you basically plug all of the ports (intake, exhaust, power valve, spark plug, etc) and apply low pressure (5 psi) to the air/fuel path via either spark plug hole or a fitting on one of the plug off plates. You also need to have a low range gauge in the works to keep an accurate measurement of the internal pressure.
One example of this procedure can be found in many of the Rotax rotary valve engine service manuals. It can be very helpful in finding leaks in the engine internal chambers. Soapy water sprayed on suspected leak areas can help pinpoint this. You would likely be able to hear where it is leaking.
WARNING: do not apply high pressure to a full leak-down test. Bad things can happen if you do.
For the full leak-down test you basically plug all of the ports (intake, exhaust, power valve, spark plug, etc) and apply low pressure (5 psi) to the air/fuel path via either spark plug hole or a fitting on one of the plug off plates. You also need to have a low range gauge in the works to keep an accurate measurement of the internal pressure.
One example of this procedure can be found in many of the Rotax rotary valve engine service manuals. It can be very helpful in finding leaks in the engine internal chambers. Soapy water sprayed on suspected leak areas can help pinpoint this. You would likely be able to hear where it is leaking.
WARNING: do not apply high pressure to a full leak-down test. Bad things can happen if you do.
the crank should already have oil on it from the 2s so protective film there to help.. and anitfreeze is not the worst thing to get in your bottem end. it is still lubricative compared to straight water. antifreeze is chemically designed not to corrode metals. like regular water will otherwise the aluminum in the cooling jackets would badly crust up and cause blockages.