does anybody knows who made a widen front end kit for the phazer, looking how it was made and what part were used , thanks
Vmax540
VIP Member
http://www.vintagevmax.com/widening.htm
I have added wide kits to Phazers, Exciters, and V-maxs and firmly believe this is the single biggest improvement to stability, ride, handling, reduced ski lift, and not to mention they look awesome! I've found the 40" ski stance to be a good all around width for trail riding and trailering. For Phazers, Yamaha had rubber fillers on the 40” widened 96 -98 Phazer II’s to fill in the gap between the panel and strut holder.
1- You need to remove the hood, side panels and skis. Then lower the front of the belly pan by drilling out the rivets (to weld underneath of frame cuts).
2- Scribe horizontal lines around cross member to insure you get the strut holders realigned also, write down some point to point measurements for reference. Note the center to center distance of the top of strut holders and the bottom of struts and you will see the top distance is ~ ½ “narrower.
3- Only cut and weld one side at a time to allow for comparison for alignment.
4- Cut a straight line as close to the Inside of frame as possible and away from strut holder this allows more frame left on strut holder and allows better realignment when inserting extensions.
5- I drill (4) 3/8" holes around C.M. only (not) extensions to allow spot welding thru the C.M. into the extension along, with the welds around the cut.
6- Take a Dremmel or file and chamfer the inside of the cut frame and outside of extension pipe to allow extension pipe to be driven into the frame. Also, there is a seam on the inside of frame that should be smoothed out.
7- Lay sled on its side and use a block of wood to drive extension pipe into frame with a mallet or sledge. Yes, it’s tight…. But, I try to get at least 3” or more inside the frame.
8- Measure the (cut off) remaining strut holder frame then add the amount you want to widen and then cut off extension pipe. Align the strut holder and tap onto the extension pipe.
9 -Tack both sides on then use a straight edge on strut top’s, sides and bottom’s to help alignment. Check all scribe marks, angles, and measurements before completely welding. Note that you can pull the alignment off if you weld too much on one side at once and not the other.
10 - After welding completely around, take a piece of original frame and slit it lengthwise, pry it open and install it around the extension pipe to double the strength and weld in place.
11- On the V-max 540 I found it necessary to grind out and extend the opening approximately 1” back on the right side of the sled where the tie rod goes thru the bulkhead and out to the strut arm.
12-You can either buy longer tie rods or cut and extend your originals. I have all the materials to add a wide kit for $45.00 plus shipping!
Good luck any question let me know. Chuck Schettler cccsche@gmail.com 814-226-1595, 7-2 eastern or 814-354-2687 evenings and weekends.
I have added wide kits to Phazers, Exciters, and V-maxs and firmly believe this is the single biggest improvement to stability, ride, handling, reduced ski lift, and not to mention they look awesome! I've found the 40" ski stance to be a good all around width for trail riding and trailering. For Phazers, Yamaha had rubber fillers on the 40” widened 96 -98 Phazer II’s to fill in the gap between the panel and strut holder.
1- You need to remove the hood, side panels and skis. Then lower the front of the belly pan by drilling out the rivets (to weld underneath of frame cuts).
2- Scribe horizontal lines around cross member to insure you get the strut holders realigned also, write down some point to point measurements for reference. Note the center to center distance of the top of strut holders and the bottom of struts and you will see the top distance is ~ ½ “narrower.
3- Only cut and weld one side at a time to allow for comparison for alignment.
4- Cut a straight line as close to the Inside of frame as possible and away from strut holder this allows more frame left on strut holder and allows better realignment when inserting extensions.
5- I drill (4) 3/8" holes around C.M. only (not) extensions to allow spot welding thru the C.M. into the extension along, with the welds around the cut.
6- Take a Dremmel or file and chamfer the inside of the cut frame and outside of extension pipe to allow extension pipe to be driven into the frame. Also, there is a seam on the inside of frame that should be smoothed out.
7- Lay sled on its side and use a block of wood to drive extension pipe into frame with a mallet or sledge. Yes, it’s tight…. But, I try to get at least 3” or more inside the frame.
8- Measure the (cut off) remaining strut holder frame then add the amount you want to widen and then cut off extension pipe. Align the strut holder and tap onto the extension pipe.
9 -Tack both sides on then use a straight edge on strut top’s, sides and bottom’s to help alignment. Check all scribe marks, angles, and measurements before completely welding. Note that you can pull the alignment off if you weld too much on one side at once and not the other.
10 - After welding completely around, take a piece of original frame and slit it lengthwise, pry it open and install it around the extension pipe to double the strength and weld in place.
11- On the V-max 540 I found it necessary to grind out and extend the opening approximately 1” back on the right side of the sled where the tie rod goes thru the bulkhead and out to the strut arm.
12-You can either buy longer tie rods or cut and extend your originals. I have all the materials to add a wide kit for $45.00 plus shipping!
Good luck any question let me know. Chuck Schettler cccsche@gmail.com 814-226-1595, 7-2 eastern or 814-354-2687 evenings and weekends.