davidgboy
New member
i did not realize that my viper does not have a continuous loop cooling system. thus my previous suggestion on bleeding cooling system was invalid. what will work nice i believe is to splice a tee and a riser into the coolant line that runs under secondary clutch. then when sled is tilted towards back with the bleeder screw on top of engine removed and the riser open, it should allow any air to escape nicely. 3/4" fittings (not pipe itself) fit snug into the coolant lines. just have to set it up with a cap. will update with results soon. sorry for previous assumptions. happy motoring
davidgboy
New member
3/4" copper fittings that is
enginuitive thinking for sure. but wouldnt it be faster just to bleed the system out the way yamaha intended? i guess its just the equation of time lost and money spent. vs how many times you actually need to bleed your cooling system. for most people its just not very often. good idea though.davidgboy said:
davidgboy
New member
it will not cost much. it just seems that these systems are prone to trapping air. this should work well. probaly let the sled sit as is without tilting it back. i will feel more confident that i have the air all out.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
I believe you are fixing a problem that does not exist. There is no air problem with these sleds unless you have an air leak in the system. It takes about 3min to remove the seat and bleed the system and reinstall the seat. Not sure what time your going to save. If I was going to do something to save time, it would be to put a shrader valve in the blead hole and have it accessed without the seat coming off, then you could get it down to 1min, a savings of 2 min. Now if you divided the time it takes to do either mod by the number of times you have had to bleed the system, you will be able to see the hours of time saved 
staggs65
Moderator
X2 betheviper. not worth the hassle for me. and as bad as it sounds; my engine comes apart more often than most peoples. 2 nuts to pull the seat.
davidgboy
New member
well actually i do not have a bleeder valve on the back. i made a custom heat exchanger and it was alot easier to do the riser. i like trying my ideas even if they dont always work out. i think heat ex. may work well. does not depend on snow. only needs air flow. some snow will get to it also. is totally protected from direct contact from ice or other debris. will try and post pics soon. not sure how to do that on here
staggs65
Moderator
easy way for pics is to load on photobucket then copy and paste the IMG code into your post
I've had problems bleeding my vipers. It seems like the rear cooler is no problem but I can't seem to get the engine bleed to work. After starting them they're passing coolant and all the heat exchangers are warm. However, I haven't been able to bleed the engine like the tech section and manual say. I've pulled the bleed screw completely out and nothing happened. I've tried raising the front end a little, I've tried putting a little pressure in the overflow tank. Nota! I had drained them because I changed out the head gasket with and opticool but bleeding the engine has not worked. Any ideas?
super1c
Super Moderator
Newbee said:
That front one ive found out is useless. You actually need to unscrew that bolt at the bleeder then pull out the on off valve a bit to get it to work. Totally not worth the effort. You should be just fine bleeding out the back. The vipers (at least with my experience) have not had airlock problems. I just bleed from the back while filling and good to go. Ive changed all three of my head gaskets now and just bleed from the back while filling and no problems. Just start them up after and make sure both side heat exchangers get hot and good to go. Should not be a issue.
Super1C,
Thanks for clarifying for me. I feel like I've done everything aside from picking the machine up over my head and shaking it to try to bleed that front bleed. All heat exchangers were warm so I think I'm good to go like you said.
Truckkid42 posted in FAQ section:
Have you ever tried this? By what you said Super1C I suppose it doesn't really matter because the heat exchangers were warm and it was pushing fluid.
Of course I would bleed the rear exchanger even if I did this procedure since it's so easy.
Thanks for clarifying for me. I feel like I've done everything aside from picking the machine up over my head and shaking it to try to bleed that front bleed. All heat exchangers were warm so I think I'm good to go like you said.
Truckkid42 posted in FAQ section:
Truckkid42 said:
Have you ever tried this? By what you said Super1C I suppose it doesn't really matter because the heat exchangers were warm and it was pushing fluid.
Of course I would bleed the rear exchanger even if I did this procedure since it's so easy.
super1c
Super Moderator
Newbee i havent tried it truckkid's way. But their is no reason it wouldnt work. Iv'e just alway done it the rear cooler bleed way. It really comes down to making sure your exchangers are all warm to the touch after bleeding no matter what way you do it.