stealther27
Member
So had it happen again on last ride this past season my right side hyfax worked its way off the rail an curled up in the suspension! When it first happened the screw that holds the hyfax in the front of the rail got ripped off the head of it got stripped off an the rest of it was still in the rail. This really sucks last time I had a nice lift to use but now my sled is just resting on a garage floor and dont know if I wana tackle dropping the rear and taking the skid out cause there are some metal gouges on that rail and might have to replace that whole rail. I was thinking about taking it to a shop to have done, I also at some point wanted to put in some viper shocks since the skid would already be out. What would you guys do kind of stuck here and just before the holidays. 
If the rail is not warn down to bad you can just grind off the high spots and slide on the new hyfax. If your going to yank the skid, I would do the shocks if you like that kind of a firm ride.
stealther27
Member
ya Im gonna check this out this weekend and see how bad it is Im crossing my fingers that I just need to get the grinder out thanks for the advice Mrsled! 
akrievins
New member
I changed my own hyfax, and it wasn't long before this same problem happened. The screw holding it in sheared off, and the hyfax was all wrapped up in the skid. I ended up taking it in and getting it replaced. I've never taken the skid out, and this seemed a bit too involved for me.
99669viper
New member
The easiest way to fix this issue is to pull the skid out. Four bolts lift the rear of the sled up and pull the skid out. Pretty easy.
I’d be more interested to figure out what caused this problem to begin with. If the track was able to get a good enough grab on that hyfax to sheer off the set screw, there had to have been something wrong from the beginning.
I posted a pic of my rear skid. As you can see when you zoom in, the tail end of the hyfax is trimmed back as to not come in contact with the track windows. That could be the cause of your whole mess.
I’d be more interested to figure out what caused this problem to begin with. If the track was able to get a good enough grab on that hyfax to sheer off the set screw, there had to have been something wrong from the beginning.
I posted a pic of my rear skid. As you can see when you zoom in, the tail end of the hyfax is trimmed back as to not come in contact with the track windows. That could be the cause of your whole mess.
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Nice looking skid! I've never seen billet wheels in the top before.
99669viper
New member
sxr70001 said:
Thanks! It didn't make any sense to me not to run billets on top since those wheels can be seen from the side. I also wanted to run a larger diameter on top to help offset the track sag from running it so loose.
I looked at billet wheels, they are not cheap. After buying new pipes, bushings, bearings, clutch kit, belt, reed spacers and a new seat this year I decided to save those for another time.
they sure look nice though. And I got to believe they run truer than plastic wheels.
they sure look nice though. And I got to believe they run truer than plastic wheels.
99669viper
New member
I had to do some quality drinkin' and thinkin' to justify those wheels! That pic is the skid out of my Apex MTX and I still have not changed out the skid on the Viper Mountain. (Yet) Im still running the stock drivers on the Viper and therefore don't run the track as loose as I do with the Avid drivers on the Apex.
akrievins
New member
Is that all that holds the entire skid in? 4 bolts?
Doesn't the drive shaft and cogs as well as the track keep the skid in there? I thought you had to remove the drive shaft to remove the skid... I think that's where the most amount of work is? I could be totally wrong... someone please enlighten me!
Doesn't the drive shaft and cogs as well as the track keep the skid in there? I thought you had to remove the drive shaft to remove the skid... I think that's where the most amount of work is? I could be totally wrong... someone please enlighten me!
akrievins said:Is that all that holds the entire skid in? 4 bolts?
Doesn't the drive shaft and cogs as well as the track keep the skid in there? I thought you had to remove the drive shaft to remove the skid... I think that's where the most amount of work is? I could be totally wrong... someone please enlighten me!
4 bolts it is!!
99669viper
New member
akrievins said:Is that all that holds the entire skid in? 4 bolts?
Doesn't the drive shaft and cogs as well as the track keep the skid in there? I thought you had to remove the drive shaft to remove the skid... I think that's where the most amount of work is? I could be totally wrong... someone please enlighten me!
The skid and the drive shaft are two independent components that work in unison to propel the sled. The skid can be taken out without having to touch the drive shaft. I posted a pic of the skid ready for removal on my 2003 Viper Mountain. The next step after this picture was taken was to pull the skid out of the track.
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stealther27
Member
Well this is actually the second time in two years that this has happened to me. After the first time my buddy drilled out the original bolt hole and actually put in a longer bolt instead of just the screw, it worked for one season and not sure how it happened this time. Ive actually had the skid out a few times before but now dont have a lift to use or a winch to lift the back end up so sled might be sitting for awhile.
akrievins
New member
That is really good to know. Great picutres as well.
I think I will pull my skid and replace all the wheel bearings... never been done! Woops!
Is there a kit to buy with all of the bearings, or is it the same bearings for all the boggies and just buy as many as needed?
I think I will pull my skid and replace all the wheel bearings... never been done! Woops!
Is there a kit to buy with all of the bearings, or is it the same bearings for all the boggies and just buy as many as needed?
tyler440
Member
im not sure which skid you are running but my bet is that there is 6 bolts holding it in... of course you figure that out pretty quick if you take 4 out and it still doesnt move
DoubleClutch
New member
No you don't have to remove the drive shaft or track to get the rear suspention out.
Also if the track is grabing the hyfax in the front you may want to check the rail end caps and see if there moving around. Also when you put new hyfax on grind the end at a slite angel so it doesnt have something to grap onto. Do the same at the rear so you have the track clips clicking when they come off the hyfax. You can also put a anti stap wheel kit on the front that will help keep the track away from the front of the hyfax.
Also if the track is grabing the hyfax in the front you may want to check the rail end caps and see if there moving around. Also when you put new hyfax on grind the end at a slite angel so it doesnt have something to grap onto. Do the same at the rear so you have the track clips clicking when they come off the hyfax. You can also put a anti stap wheel kit on the front that will help keep the track away from the front of the hyfax.
You may also want to put a dab of blue loctite on the threads to keep the screw in place, if I am not mistaken they are red loctited from the factory...and Red is a pain in the you know what...
You may also want to check your track alignment and track clips. From what I have read in your posts something is grabbing the hyfax more than it should be. All it takes is a single track clip with the tabs bent or worn out.
Another thing that can happen is you can melt the hyfax due to lack of lubrication (running on ice or no snow) and then when it cools the melted hyfax sticks to the track clips or the track itself. This is more likely if your track clips are missing or rough.
Also check your suspension arms (in the skid). You may have a broken arm that is allowing the skid to twist.
The skid is easy to pull by simply rolling the sled on it's side. Left is right.
Another thing that can happen is you can melt the hyfax due to lack of lubrication (running on ice or no snow) and then when it cools the melted hyfax sticks to the track clips or the track itself. This is more likely if your track clips are missing or rough.
Also check your suspension arms (in the skid). You may have a broken arm that is allowing the skid to twist.
The skid is easy to pull by simply rolling the sled on it's side. Left is right.
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stealther27
Member
I checked the hyfax and there both in good shape no low spots at all, but I do remember noticeing that the rubber cap on the front of the right rail was a lil loose and woobly. So that could be causing this? and last year I replaced some track clips but I know there are a few still missing in the middle of the track.