SRXPete
New member
What is the best way to replace the bushing in the secondary and helix without a press??? Some guys say you need a press no matter what. I don't want to drive two hours (one way) to get it done with a press.
TJ500
Member
don't know a way without a press... they are in very tight and are quite delicate.. pounding of any sort isn't recommended...
if you haven't yet purchased them check Dalton's site, about a third the cost of OEM and quality appears identical.... (use red Lock Tight when installing)...
In Canada Yamaha charges $48 plus taxes for same bushings)...
http://www.daltonindustries.com/snowmobile/yamahahelixe.htm
tj.
if you haven't yet purchased them check Dalton's site, about a third the cost of OEM and quality appears identical.... (use red Lock Tight when installing)...
In Canada Yamaha charges $48 plus taxes for same bushings)...
http://www.daltonindustries.com/snowmobile/yamahahelixe.htm
tj.
PJVMAX
New member
- Joined
- May 5, 2003
- Messages
- 30
I've always been able to pound them in and out using a socket the same diameter.
yamaholic22
Active member
yea try a socket like he said, that usually works well
TJ500
Member
clutch shieve bushings? with a hammer and socket? I'll have to give it a try too.... on someone else's clutch,,,, for practice....
tj..
tj..
Last edited:
700scott
New member
i usually use a bearing driver or a socket in a bench mounted vise so at least you're not beating the death out of the bushing
Yamadogger
New member
Bushings
I've never used a press before and have rebuilt many clutches by pounding the bushings in. Obviously a press is the tool of choice but a little ingenuity and patience will pay off as well. I pound the bushings most of the way in using a good flat chunk of wood since the wood won't mar the edges of the bushing. When I can no longer make any headway with the wood I actually use an old bushing to drive the new one in but a socket of the correct size would work equally well. Just make sure to not smash over the edge of your new bushing or it will be toast.
I've never used a press before and have rebuilt many clutches by pounding the bushings in. Obviously a press is the tool of choice but a little ingenuity and patience will pay off as well. I pound the bushings most of the way in using a good flat chunk of wood since the wood won't mar the edges of the bushing. When I can no longer make any headway with the wood I actually use an old bushing to drive the new one in but a socket of the correct size would work equally well. Just make sure to not smash over the edge of your new bushing or it will be toast.
SRXPete
New member
Great! I will order some bushings ASAP!!!
TJ500
Member
Yamadogger....
How do you get the old bushings out?.... The shieves I've looked at have a small lip machined on one side making it difficuly to find something of precise size to assist the knock out... (this lip is like a stop where the new bushing can go no further)....
thanks...TJ..
How do you get the old bushings out?.... The shieves I've looked at have a small lip machined on one side making it difficuly to find something of precise size to assist the knock out... (this lip is like a stop where the new bushing can go no further)....
thanks...TJ..
Yamadogger
New member
Old Bushings
TJ - The secondary has no lip machined in either the helix or sheave but the primary has one. For the secondary bushings I use a flat punch and carefully drive out the bushings. Obviously it tears the crap out of the old bushing but as long as your careful to not go through the bushing and hit the underlying aluminum it works pretty well. The toughest one to get out is the one you describe on the primary with the lip on it. For that one I use a pointed punch (I'm sure it has a name but I don't know what it is) but it's flat on one edge and curved along the other, coming to a point at the tip. I dig this in to the exposed lip of the old bushing and drive it out with a hammer. It takes some finessing and really destroys the old bushing but it works. I've done several this way and always had good luck. Whatever method you use, make sure to use locktite sleave retainer on all of your new bushings or they can slide out. I know this because it happened on my inner secondary bushing - slid out and took out my jackshaft bearing. You can pick up the sleave retainer at any auto parts store and it's cheap insurance to ensure your bushings stay in place.
TJ - The secondary has no lip machined in either the helix or sheave but the primary has one. For the secondary bushings I use a flat punch and carefully drive out the bushings. Obviously it tears the crap out of the old bushing but as long as your careful to not go through the bushing and hit the underlying aluminum it works pretty well. The toughest one to get out is the one you describe on the primary with the lip on it. For that one I use a pointed punch (I'm sure it has a name but I don't know what it is) but it's flat on one edge and curved along the other, coming to a point at the tip. I dig this in to the exposed lip of the old bushing and drive it out with a hammer. It takes some finessing and really destroys the old bushing but it works. I've done several this way and always had good luck. Whatever method you use, make sure to use locktite sleave retainer on all of your new bushings or they can slide out. I know this because it happened on my inner secondary bushing - slid out and took out my jackshaft bearing. You can pick up the sleave retainer at any auto parts store and it's cheap insurance to ensure your bushings stay in place.
TJ500
Member
great info Yamadogger, thanks........
come to think of it, it was the primary shieve that had the lip... For that bushing, excessive heat was kind enought to remove the old bushing for me... At 40 mph.... (my own fault)..
come to think of it, it was the primary shieve that had the lip... For that bushing, excessive heat was kind enought to remove the old bushing for me... At 40 mph.... (my own fault)..