Clutch kits or set ups found on this forum have alot of value. Most times the set up has been tried and proven to work in the field by multiple users over a range of conditions. So someone already did all the test and tune work for you and you just reap the fruit by duplicating the set up in your sled. The thing with a clutch set up is basicly you need to use ALL the parts or you end up with differnt and usually less then expected/desired results.
Clutch weights,rivet/hardware placement and weight, and the clutch springs are vital to duplicate. The helix brand is even more most often overlooked and "the brand" one guy uses makes all the differance in the world towards the whole combo working together and producing the desired result.
Differnt brand helix's will shift a bit differnt even if the same angles are used due to the radius and the cut made. Its how it progresses into the smaller angles, dwell on certain angle before progressing into another section of the ramp that makes it act/shift differntly.
The problem is every differnt helix retailer has a differnt machine shop cut the helixs and they all do that differntly on the radius. Thats why some might be closer then others but it matters where your measuring the helix from, just the tip and the end isnt the whole picture of the angles.
I find alot of the helixs are closer then most think and certain brands are more aggressive due to the abrupt angle change or duration of the steeper angle cut in the ramp travel the button sees on the clutch. I dont think you can really tell a significant differance in a ramp change till your talking a couple 2-3 degrees and that matters entirely on the "cut of the ramp" as mentioned.
Getting back to the clutch set up, you want to get ALL of the set up. Sometimes your given a basic set up and youll get close but not get the same "bang on" set up someone else did, its most likely the small details left out that make it all work together.
Gearing plays a large roll in clutching, as does roller size(especially vipers), (there are other tech articles that explain effects of gearing and such on clutch set ups)
Springs must be new or in like new condition, a used 5000 mile, 1998 srx primary spring is not the same as a new one is! The clutch parts,spring colors, helix brand used and the gearing used in the sled is your basic set up and should produce a predictable outcome as for target rpm. There will always be little differances between sleds and thats ok, you should still be "close" to your target rpm and just need to fine tune the set up to be specific for your sled. So in the future if your looking to gain some performance and would like to try a set up reccomended by someone, ask some more questions on set up and then more then likely youll get exactly the reward your looking for the first time .
Clutch weights,rivet/hardware placement and weight, and the clutch springs are vital to duplicate. The helix brand is even more most often overlooked and "the brand" one guy uses makes all the differance in the world towards the whole combo working together and producing the desired result.
Differnt brand helix's will shift a bit differnt even if the same angles are used due to the radius and the cut made. Its how it progresses into the smaller angles, dwell on certain angle before progressing into another section of the ramp that makes it act/shift differntly.
The problem is every differnt helix retailer has a differnt machine shop cut the helixs and they all do that differntly on the radius. Thats why some might be closer then others but it matters where your measuring the helix from, just the tip and the end isnt the whole picture of the angles.
I find alot of the helixs are closer then most think and certain brands are more aggressive due to the abrupt angle change or duration of the steeper angle cut in the ramp travel the button sees on the clutch. I dont think you can really tell a significant differance in a ramp change till your talking a couple 2-3 degrees and that matters entirely on the "cut of the ramp" as mentioned.
Getting back to the clutch set up, you want to get ALL of the set up. Sometimes your given a basic set up and youll get close but not get the same "bang on" set up someone else did, its most likely the small details left out that make it all work together.
Gearing plays a large roll in clutching, as does roller size(especially vipers), (there are other tech articles that explain effects of gearing and such on clutch set ups)
Springs must be new or in like new condition, a used 5000 mile, 1998 srx primary spring is not the same as a new one is! The clutch parts,spring colors, helix brand used and the gearing used in the sled is your basic set up and should produce a predictable outcome as for target rpm. There will always be little differances between sleds and thats ok, you should still be "close" to your target rpm and just need to fine tune the set up to be specific for your sled. So in the future if your looking to gain some performance and would like to try a set up reccomended by someone, ask some more questions on set up and then more then likely youll get exactly the reward your looking for the first time .
YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
JUST TO ADD TO DON S POST. NOT TWO MOTORS ARE ALIKE. DRIVER WEIGHT, SNOW CONDITIONS, ELEVATION, TRACTION/ SUSPENSION SET-UP etc ALL COME INTO PLAY WHEN YOUR TRYING TO GET THE BEST SET-UP FOR YOUR SLED. I DON,T THINK THERE IS A CLUTCH SET-UP OUT THERE THAT MUST BE '' TWEEKED '' WITH. EXAMPLE. I POSTED A GREAT 8BU-10 SET-UP I USE IN MY 2002 SRX 700. THIS SET-UP FLYS FOR ME. I POSTED IT, ALOT WERE VERY INTERESTED IN TRYING IT. SOME DID AND FOUND THEY WERE PRETTY FARR OFF OF WHAT I POSTED. GOOD LUCK TO YOU GUYS AND KEEP TESTING. 3:16 (yammie tony)