I have two vipers I've put the opticool gasket on without the center gasket. Both ran fine without any leaks up to operating temps...etc... Just doing some last minute checks I found that coolant has weeped out some of the head bolts most likely after cool down or during cool down. I rechecked head bolt torque and they're all good.
Has anyone had this happen to them?
Does this mean I'm ingesting coolant into the cylinders?
I think I'm probably going to have to put the center gasket back in most likely. What do people think about this?
I didn't measure squish but I did measure the two gaskets without the center one and it's real close to the stock viper gasket with all three. I was trying to maintain as close to stock squish as possible without measuring it.
By the way, this has to be the most helpful site I've ever been to. Thanks to all for sharing your knowledge and experience! TY rocks!
Has anyone had this happen to them?
Does this mean I'm ingesting coolant into the cylinders?
I think I'm probably going to have to put the center gasket back in most likely. What do people think about this?
I didn't measure squish but I did measure the two gaskets without the center one and it's real close to the stock viper gasket with all three. I was trying to maintain as close to stock squish as possible without measuring it.
By the way, this has to be the most helpful site I've ever been to. Thanks to all for sharing your knowledge and experience! TY rocks!
super1c
Super Moderator
I dont know if any leaked back into the cylinders or not. But i have read on here with some of the opticools guys have had slight weeping and had to go about 10 more LBS of torque. Also those torque specs are for the whole gasket so i would say you might need more just because your running thinner now? Just educated guessing on my part. Chris
I had this problem got new brass washers. Changed them one at a time so I didn't have to do the hard gasket again. Has worked so far.
Ok thanks Chris. I don't feel so bad now. Missery loves company and it sounds like people are already inside the house.
I ran it today and after a complete cool down (6hrs) it hasn't weeped. However I'm going to check tomorrow morning before I take it for a spin. Hopefully it'll be alright. If I have to, I'll go up to a max of 10 more foot lbs. I'll try 5 first then if that doesn't work I'll use 10. If that doesn't work I will be throwing the center gasket back in.
The odd thing is that the other machine with the same maneuver...didn't weep at all. Oh well go figure.
I ran it today and after a complete cool down (6hrs) it hasn't weeped. However I'm going to check tomorrow morning before I take it for a spin. Hopefully it'll be alright. If I have to, I'll go up to a max of 10 more foot lbs. I'll try 5 first then if that doesn't work I'll use 10. If that doesn't work I will be throwing the center gasket back in.
The odd thing is that the other machine with the same maneuver...didn't weep at all. Oh well go figure.
super1c
Super Moderator
Here's one of the posts on torque. http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=46801&highlight=opticool+head+gasket+torque
Thanks. Good threads.
Well, my bolt heads were dry after over a day from being last run. I have a new theory of what's happening. I think when people change out head bolts they basically leave most everything attached and tip it back. Even though it's been drained I think that there's residual that pools together when tipped back. Then when you place the head back on and tighten it down, I think some of that residual is being trapped in the head bolt spaces, and some may even leak into the cylinder but it's burned up the instant you fire the machine up.
Then the residual in the head bolt holes is trapped. When heated up it gets boiled since it's got nowhere to go, and it eventually finds it's way up past the brass washers.
I think most people want to cure this as soon as possible so they may up the torque or do something to help. But I'm wondering is what's happening is that once it heats up a couple of times it's out of the way.
In my case I never increased the torque, all I did was verify the 20ft/lbs. And now it seems to have gone away.
It's just a theory for all it's worth.
Well, my bolt heads were dry after over a day from being last run. I have a new theory of what's happening. I think when people change out head bolts they basically leave most everything attached and tip it back. Even though it's been drained I think that there's residual that pools together when tipped back. Then when you place the head back on and tighten it down, I think some of that residual is being trapped in the head bolt spaces, and some may even leak into the cylinder but it's burned up the instant you fire the machine up.
Then the residual in the head bolt holes is trapped. When heated up it gets boiled since it's got nowhere to go, and it eventually finds it's way up past the brass washers.
I think most people want to cure this as soon as possible so they may up the torque or do something to help. But I'm wondering is what's happening is that once it heats up a couple of times it's out of the way.
In my case I never increased the torque, all I did was verify the 20ft/lbs. And now it seems to have gone away.
It's just a theory for all it's worth.
super1c
Super Moderator
Newbee said:
Seems logical to me. Good thinking.
srxman06
New member
why do you only put 2 of the 3 layers of the gasket in?
The headbolts are open in the cylinder,meaning the thread is open at the bootms into the water jacket and the head has room around the bolt as well, so its a constant surrounding of antifreeze. Dont mean to ruin your theory but really what your running into is the copper washer not seating to the head bolt boss on head or a bit of dirt/debris between the sealing washer and the surface of the head boss that the washer touches. Its common to get some of the white corrosion powder under them and run into what you did. Usually a good going over them after you have heat cycled the engine once cures it as the copper sealing is soft and will form to the defect and make the seal.
srxman06,
I took the center gasket out because I noticed that the whole gasket compared to the stock viper gasket is thicker. The stock viper gasket was about .30 in while the opticool was about .45 in. I wanted to keep about the same squish so I measured the opticool without the center and it was very close to the stock viper gasket thickness however just slightly thicker. Since I ride at altitude I didn't want to lose compression / power. The real way to do this is to measure squish. But I just measured the gaskets. Hopefully I won't pay for my laziness!
I took the center gasket out because I noticed that the whole gasket compared to the stock viper gasket is thicker. The stock viper gasket was about .30 in while the opticool was about .45 in. I wanted to keep about the same squish so I measured the opticool without the center and it was very close to the stock viper gasket thickness however just slightly thicker. Since I ride at altitude I didn't want to lose compression / power. The real way to do this is to measure squish. But I just measured the gaskets. Hopefully I won't pay for my laziness!
mrviper700,
My theory was based on my limited knowledge. And what you're saying makes more sense. I have no problem with someone torpedoing my theory, especially someone who knows this machine a hell of a lot better then I. Thanks for enlightening me!
Speaking of topedoes ---- "Damn the torpedoes! Full steam ahead!"
Any Navy buffs know who said that?
My theory was based on my limited knowledge. And what you're saying makes more sense. I have no problem with someone torpedoing my theory, especially someone who knows this machine a hell of a lot better then I. Thanks for enlightening me!
Speaking of topedoes ---- "Damn the torpedoes! Full steam ahead!"
Any Navy buffs know who said that?
sorry didnt want to sink anyones ship....lol 