Upper Jack Shaft Removal

Racing666

Racing666

New member
Joined
Jan 6, 2009
Messages
395
Age
43
Location
Vermont
Anyone got a good write up about removing the upper jack shaft on 2000 SRX 700? I have to remove it to change the bearing just behind the secondary clutch.
 

bluemonster1 said:
hate to say it but you will have to remove the chaincase in able to slide the shaft back and out...
Click to expand...

I'm fine with that but does the shaft come out the chaincase side or the clutch side?
 
While I have it apart, I wanna replace the chaincase bearings as well. Is there a aftermarket bearing for the top and bottom from NSK or Timken? Also is there an aftermarket bearing for the clutch side? That one from Yammie is expensive!
 
Last edited:
You do NOT have to remove the chain case to get the shaft out. You DO need to remove the upper gear though. You will need to free the bearing up on the jackshaft in order to slide it in far enough to pull the shaft out of the c case. If you r replacing the c case brgs, then yea, just pull th case off. Might asc well replace the speedo side brg. while your at it.
 
The bearing on the jack shaft is already free. The set screws came loose and the bearing backed out of the inner plate, broke one bolt and was wedged in. The bearing looks okay, the shaft looks okay and the inner plate is just a little bent. I figure not to take a chance at that bearing though. Are both chaincase bearings 6205's? Is there a "cheaper" aftermarket bearing for the jackshaft and driveshaft/speedo bearing? I do need to get a new speedo cable too. My buddy that I bought it from blew a belt last year and somehow it broke the speedo cable end off.
 
Thanks Hundo. Is that bearing for the driveshaft/speedo as well? The numbers on the fiche are different but both are 8CJ?
 
The clutch-side driveshaft and jackshaft bearings are different. The jackshaft uses an elliptical outer race, and the driveshaft is flat. I have used several replacements that are similar but not the same. It appears that Yamaha had this bearing made special order as the exact part numbers are not offered directly by the original manufacturer. To be honest getting the Yamaha part is about the same price as long as you get a good discount. Should be $20 - $25 each.

Did you check the Tech Pages, seems like there is something in there if you need more guidance.
 
Last edited:
Can the driveshaft bearing be changed without taking the lower gear off the chaincase?
 
One thing is be sure not to lose the set screws from the old driveshaft bearing. Mine were missing so I had to order both. The set screws from Yamaha aren't the same thread as the bearing they are for. it's a different pitch. I couldn't even find that pitch at my local Mill supply. I had to re-tap the holes in the bearing and buy different screws. Both bearing and screws were right from the dealer and I double checked the part numbers. Someone made a change and didn't tell the other supplier! Gil
 
If I remember right the bearings and seals for the chaincase (top and bottom) both are pressed in from the backside of the inner cover.
 
gil7247 - I am guessing that you had non-OEM bearings in there somehow. The NSK bearings that Yamaha used OEM all use the same M6-0.75 set screws. They should have a T-20 Torx head. That does bring up a good point though, the bearings from Yamaha do not come with set screws, so keep your old ones.

Racing666 - I have found it easier to just pull the chaincase. If you have one bearing worn out, what are the chances that others are soon to follow. I just go through all of the jackshaft / driveshaft bearings and seals at the same time as well as the chain gears and lube. It really is an easy job, just read up on it here if you haven't done it before. Be sure to loosen your track to take the pressure off the driveshaft. Pay attention to the parking brake (leave it on), and the brake disk (what usually binds) when you pull the chaincase off.
 
Last edited:
I have the ones for the chaincase. My question is, if I don't have the driveshaft bearing in time, can it be changed later without taking the gear off on the chaincase side?
 
No I ordered both the bearing and set screws from Yamaha. (I needed set screws because mine were missing) They were both in Yamaha packaging with the correct part numbers, but those set screws were a different pitch than the threads in the bearing. I assumed or atleast hoped the set screws were wrong and the old screws would work If a guy saved them. Like I said, mine were missing when I got the sled so I didn't have any choice but to order new ones. I ended up re tapping the bearing threads to match the pitch of the screws I got as I couldn't find any set screws with that pitch. Gil
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top