I am having probs with a 700sxr. I cleaned the carbs and can't get rid of a bog off the start I tried the air pilot screw from 1 1/4 to 2 turns out and the bog is still there. The sled idles ok If you are at 3000 rpm and pin it the bog is not there just from a stand still. Any help?
ryan2001sx600r
New member
does it bog and then eventually clean itself out? Sounds like it is flooding out. Are your floats set correctly? 2 turns on the screws are about right but you could try going a little leaner and seeing what happens.
sleddineinar
VIP Member
I'd look at your clutches and make sure nothing is worn out, make sure things are cleaned up good. Use a scotchbrite on the sheaves. Make sure the rollers in the primary are working right and that the buttons in your secondary are not worn out.
sockeyerun
Test Dummy
Did it bog before you cleaned the carbs?
Make sure choke plungers are adjusted correctly and the float height. I also had a similar problem where mine would only idle on two cylinders then at about 2500 pick up the other cylinder. It ended up being the plastic piece that screws in around the choke plunger was broken on all three carbs. Sounds like you are flooding out a cylinder down low.
Nick
Nick
these sleds have fuel screws on them don't they? If so you made the problem worse by turning them out.
yup fuel screws. mine backed out after 10,000 miles . the it blubbered when i let up on it , and mileage dropped
mod-it
Member
A little background will help us trouble-shoot. Is this a new to you sled that you just bought, or have you had it and the problem just cropped up this season when you got it out of storage? Can you flip the choke and it makes it better? This would show that it is a lean bog. A hanging idle will also point to being lean...Sorry, but here's some questions for you to help trouble-shoot:
How certain are you that you got the pilot jets and circuit clean? Was there a nice, round hole when you looked through the pilot jets? Did you remove the fuel screws and blow carb cleaner through from the pilot jet location and let it flow through the passages?
If you're confident about the carbs being clean, then look to the clutches like sleddineiner said. A worn belt sitting too low in the secondary so it is like taking off in second gear can cause a bog, as well as the other things he suggested.
How certain are you that you got the pilot jets and circuit clean? Was there a nice, round hole when you looked through the pilot jets? Did you remove the fuel screws and blow carb cleaner through from the pilot jet location and let it flow through the passages?
If you're confident about the carbs being clean, then look to the clutches like sleddineiner said. A worn belt sitting too low in the secondary so it is like taking off in second gear can cause a bog, as well as the other things he suggested.
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I guess its more than a bog. From a idle if I hit it it will stall itself out. At 3000 rpm it is fine. I cleaned and blew the carbs out three times. A little choke seemed to help but I might be frusterated and think it helped. How do I tell if my floats are set to the right
sockeyerun
Test Dummy
Did you have this bog before you cleaned your carbs? If your throttle cable is set to tight, it will cause it to react like it is bogging. but really your TORS is causing the problem.
sounds like its idling at say 1500 then you slam it the it dies ?. that would be normal , it cant take off from that speed without a accel pump on the carbs . fuel is heavier than air so if you slam it open from idle it will suck air but the fuel will lag , boooohg, no go if you do it at a higher r then its starting to pull fuel , then it would go .. drive a old car with a carb on it . pull off the accel pump then hit it , same thing booohg . i had a guy with a boat , same thing he thought he could hit it from a idle .saythey said:
. nope rev it a wee bit then it was fine 
. that's is why old cycle carbs were cv carbs, other wise they would bog out do to air speed and fuel lag problem also if your belt is too loose it will start out in a second gear. not in low like it should . that's not good , run the belt as tite as you can without sqeeling it
mod-it
Member
It can be very frustrating saythey, but we'll get you there...
Please answer the following questions, and we'll help you the best we can:
Is this a new to you sled, or did you have it before and it worked properly? The reason I ask is because if it's new to you, the previous owner could've changed the jetting and that is your problem...if you have had it and it worked fine until this season, then we know it is a different problem.
I know you said you cleaned and blew the carbs out 3 times, but does that mean you removed the bowls and pulled the jets out and held them up to a light to make sure they are clean? The reason I ask this is because I've had many times that I actually couldn't get the pilot jets clean without running a small wire through them to loosen up the crud. By holding them up to a light and looking through them, I could tell if there was still blockage. It should have a nice round hole through them...small for sure, but definitely bigger than a ragged pin hole like they normally are when blocked. In the tech section there is an excellent write up called "carb-cleaning 101" by MrViper. It is a thorough write up, complete with pictures.
Where were the fuel screws set at when you originally opened up the carbs?
Sockeyerun brought up a good point: Did you make sure there is some slack in the throttle cable when you hooked it back up at the carbs? These sleds have a Throttle Over Ride System, TORS for short, that will cause similiar issues. It is a safety feature that limits the RPM's if there is a throttle stuck situation, such as a frayed cable. If it is only slightly too tight it can cause funny problems.
There are many knowledgeable people on here, if you clearly answer the above questions we should be able to walk you through good trouble-shooting steps to find the issue.
Please answer the following questions, and we'll help you the best we can:
Is this a new to you sled, or did you have it before and it worked properly? The reason I ask is because if it's new to you, the previous owner could've changed the jetting and that is your problem...if you have had it and it worked fine until this season, then we know it is a different problem.
I know you said you cleaned and blew the carbs out 3 times, but does that mean you removed the bowls and pulled the jets out and held them up to a light to make sure they are clean? The reason I ask this is because I've had many times that I actually couldn't get the pilot jets clean without running a small wire through them to loosen up the crud. By holding them up to a light and looking through them, I could tell if there was still blockage. It should have a nice round hole through them...small for sure, but definitely bigger than a ragged pin hole like they normally are when blocked. In the tech section there is an excellent write up called "carb-cleaning 101" by MrViper. It is a thorough write up, complete with pictures.
Where were the fuel screws set at when you originally opened up the carbs?
Sockeyerun brought up a good point: Did you make sure there is some slack in the throttle cable when you hooked it back up at the carbs? These sleds have a Throttle Over Ride System, TORS for short, that will cause similiar issues. It is a safety feature that limits the RPM's if there is a throttle stuck situation, such as a frayed cable. If it is only slightly too tight it can cause funny problems.
There are many knowledgeable people on here, if you clearly answer the above questions we should be able to walk you through good trouble-shooting steps to find the issue.
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sockeyerun
Test Dummy
Thats why I keep asking if this happened before the carbs were cleaned or after. This sounds exactly like a problem I was having at one point , Thought it was the carbs. Pulled them several times cleaning and adjusting the pilot screws etc. only to find out it was the TORS that was doing it. Actually twice, the first time I had the cable to tight and the second time, the TORS switch on the carbs was bad. These problems act just like it's bogging. once you would get past a couple thousand RPM's it ran fine, but let it drop below that and it would fall on it's face. Do a search on this site under TORS and I' sure you will find my posts and a whole lot of info. When you adjust the throttle cable you will notice that there can be a lot of slack in it and the carbs will still be wide open. If your motor is stock and nothing has been changed. It should be easy to track down your problem.
Like mo-dit said whe'll help you get this figured out, Thats why
Like mo-dit said whe'll help you get this figured out, Thats why
taylzee
New member
Sounds a lot like TORS. If you had the carbs off and didn't hook up the 2 wires this will happen or if they are hooked up, then I would bypass and see what happens. If you aren't sure what TORS is, do a search.
taylzee
New member
It could also be electrical. I have have seen bad high speed stator circuits not let you get over 5000rpm.