please help TORS problem

S

snowbros

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just bought a yamaha vmax xt 600cc year 1996...runs great sounds great starts first pull. The TORS light kicks on at about 3000rpm and it starts to make at vroom vroom sound and backfire and il shut it off. now figured out how to bypass the tors system and none of what i just said will happen...it will engage fine without the bypass and sound good and the tors light wnt be on. Now can bypassing be bad for the sled and can it create any problems..or how can i fix the problem without bypassing and will it cost much?
 

the bad part of running with it bypassed is the throttle can stick wide open and take off on you. it's justa safety feature to keep rpms below clutch engagement in the event of a stuck throttle. make sure you have freeplay in your throttle cable. cable too tight is the most common tors problem. if that doesn't do it you need to check the 2 switches
 
snowbros said:
thanks....could it have to do with a hose crack getting to much air?
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No. Not likely. The tors is just 2 switches, one on the throttle lever and one on the carbs if the switches are not in sync. The TORS thinks there is problem and won't let the engine run past 3K. TORS is a safety feature to keep a frozen wide-open throttle from ruining your ride.

Usually the problem is the throttle cable is set too tight, there needs to be about 2mm of freeplay in the cable when you engage the throttle, if not, TORS will engage. If you set the freeplay and still have a problem, then you need to check the switches, there are posts somewhere that, show the proper procedure for setting the freeplay and for checking the switches, do search on TORS and you'll find plenty to read. I believe that TORS stands for Throttle OverRide Sensor.
 
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There are two small electrical switches in the TORS system: one in the thumb throttle block and the other on the carbs. The system relies on both switches working properly and enough freeplay in the throttle cable. During normal operation, when you press on the throttle, the switch on the thumb throttle block closes then as you continue to depress the throttle lever, the switch on the carb closes and the engine runs fine. If for any reason, the switch on the carb closes first, the TORS system restricts the engine RPM. I test the TORS system every ride, easy to do. You will notice at the pivot point on the throttle block the pin in the thum lever goes into a slot, not a hole. This is to allow the switch in the throttle block to be actuated by depressing the throttle. To Test the TORS, hold the thumb lever at the pivot point to prevent it from pivoting into the block. When you do this and apply throttle the TORS kicks in. I found during a ride last year that the TORS switch on the carbs on my RX1 failed and had to bypass the system to get home.

The TORs system is very reliable: three potentail problem areas: 1. are the switches working (you can test them with an ohmmeter, 2. is the cable adjusted correctly ( a few millimeters of free play) or 3. are the plug in connectors actually plugged in and have clean, corrosion free connections.

Riding with the TORS system is a bad idea. A runaway sled is a deadly missile. Check out the videos of runaway sleds on YouTube.
 
rx1jim said:
There are two small electrical switches in the TORS system: one in the thumb throttle block and the other on the carbs. The system relies on both switches working properly and enough freeplay in the throttle cable. During normal operation, when you press on the throttle, the switch on the thumb throttle block closes then as you continue to depress the throttle lever, the switch on the carb closes and the engine runs fine. If for any reason, the switch on the carb closes first, the TORS system restricts the engine RPM. I test the TORS system every ride, easy to do. You will notice at the pivot point on the throttle block the pin in the thum lever goes into a slot, not a hole. This is to allow the switch in the throttle block to be actuated by depressing the throttle. To Test the TORS, hold the thumb lever at the pivot point to prevent it from pivoting into the block. When you do this and apply throttle the TORS kicks in. I found during a ride last year that the TORS switch on the carbs on my RX1 failed and had to bypass the system to get home.

The TORs system is very reliable: three potentail problem areas: 1. are the switches working (you can test them with an ohmmeter, 2. is the cable adjusted correctly ( a few millimeters of free play) or 3. are the plug in connectors actually plugged in and have clean, corrosion free connections.

Riding with the TORS system is a bad idea. A runaway sled is a deadly missile. Check out the videos of runaway sleds on YouTube.
Click to expand...

I am not a native english speaker so forgive me but when you say closes do you mean that the circuit closes so current flows or vice versa?
 
What brand gas station did you go to? Shell has ethanol in their gas and ive heard it sets TORS off sometimes. Drain the gas and put in a non ethanol gas (mobile, admiral, Shell has 1 type, BP, quick trip, ect.)
 
Diversion said:
I am not a native english speaker so forgive me but when you say closes do you mean that the circuit closes so current flows or vice versa?
Click to expand...

I understand what he is saying but cant answer your question. Basically If CDI gets signal from carbs before signal from throttle block it will activate TORS. You can test TORS 2 ways. Reach down and tug on throttle arm/cam on carbs(set parking brake/have on stand) with out signal from throttle tors will activate. The other way is to hold the rocking/pivot point on front side of handle bar(when you start to press throttle the pivot slides just a little bit). By holding pivot point from sliding before it pivots your circumventing tors switch. Which should activate tors. And like staggs said...ethanol has nothing to do with it, King tuts source mis lead him.
 
rx1jim said:
There are two small electrical switches in the TORS system: one in the thumb throttle block and the other on the carbs. The system relies on both switches working properly and enough freeplay in the throttle cable. During normal operation, when you press on the throttle, the switch on the thumb throttle block closes then as you continue to depress the throttle lever, the switch on the carb closes and the engine runs fine. If for any reason, the switch on the carb closes first, the TORS system restricts the engine RPM. I test the TORS system every ride, easy to do. You will notice at the pivot point on the throttle block the pin in the thum lever goes into a slot, not a hole. This is to allow the switch in the throttle block to be actuated by depressing the throttle. To Test the TORS, hold the thumb lever at the pivot point to prevent it from pivoting into the block. When you do this and apply throttle the TORS kicks in. I found during a ride last year that the TORS switch on the carbs on my RX1 failed and had to bypass the system to get home.

The TORs system is very reliable: three potentail problem areas: 1. are the switches working (you can test them with an ohmmeter, 2. is the cable adjusted correctly ( a few millimeters of free play) or 3. are the plug in connectors actually plugged in and have clean, corrosion free connections.

Riding with the TORS system is a bad idea. A runaway sled is a deadly missile. Check out the videos of runaway sleds on YouTube.
Click to expand...
I’m having similar issues. I bought mine used and just got the engine rebuilt. Carb wires are looped at the harness. Throttle cable is loose and throttle switch is held in place manually. Every time I start it the tors light flashes and won’t let the clutch engage. I’m not sure if something is maybe messed up within the wiring harness from the previous owner? Is there a way to bypass it at the cdi to rule out the harness?
 
try bypassing the tors switch at the throttle block. seen others have had to do that before as that switch failed. never had to do it yet personally.
 
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