Relocating skid, rearward 3.5"

A

alswagg

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Has anyone ever relocated the entire skid rearward? I am switching to a 128" track. This means I need an additional 3.5" of skid length from the front axle. I can either buy the extensions, but I thought I might be able to relocate the whole skid frame rearwards. I know this will give more ski pressure, but I thought maybe this will also give a longer base between ski's and skid. Similar to more modern sleds. Any thoughts??? Al
 

Sounds good in theory. I would be leary of track not jiving with the front of skid if thats all you did was move it back. Maybe a slight extension to the front of the rails?
 
actually, what I was hoping to achieve is a slightly less attack angle of the track/skid. If the skid is moved backwards, and angle is lessened Al
 
been done by many people, no problem with the track "jiving" with the rails. does drastically reduce the attack angle of the track, great mod. you will need to readjust your skid to achieve desired transfer
 
snoprokidf6 said:
been done by many people, no problem with the track "jiving" with the rails. does drastically reduce the attack angle of the track, great mod. you will need to readjust your skid to achieve desired transfer
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x2 I'm looking at doing a 121 with 136 extensions set back to 144 for an offtrail project
 
Done it a few times. I prefer to just toss the proaction in the trash and use a different suspension altogether though. If I remember correctly 3.5" puts the front shaft right about in the middle of the steering hoop.
 
true on the steering post. puts you right there. if your dead set on on doing the swap, there are a few tricks to overcome the location issues.

i have moved skids up, back, cross bred them, altered, etc. by no means an expert, but my stuff seems to work.
 
You might need to add an anti-stab kit to keep the front of the rails from stabbing through the track. It's just an axle and set of wheels about the same size marginal snow wheels. that gets bolts onto rails in the front between the tips.
 
^^^

A good idea. My cousin put a 141 under his Mnt. SRX that was originally a 136 and moved the skid to accomodate. First ride he stabbed the rails through the track.
 
mod-it said:
^^^

A good idea. My cousin put a 141 under his Mnt. SRX that was originally a 136 and moved the skid to accomodate. First ride he stabbed the rails through the track.
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I don't see why the front rails would be an issue, due to the less attack angle???? The front tips are further away from the drive axle, but same distance down. The curve of the rails should stay the same. Please clue me in if I am thinking wrong.
I ordered the 128 track, 1" Either I need to relocate the skid back and deal with the difficult mounting location or order a rail extension. Either way, a slight mod to the rear heat exchanger angle should be the only thing needed there.
Al
 
snowdad4 said:
true on the steering post. puts you right there. if your dead set on on doing the swap, there are a few tricks to overcome the location issues.

i have moved skids up, back, cross bred them, altered, etc. by no means an expert, but my stuff seems to work.
Click to expand...
I am interested in your ideas. Please clue me in if you have time. thanks Al
 
set your relocate numbers for a 4.5" setback. this will put you just behind the steering hoop.

next, relocate both front and rear pivot arms on the rails one inch forward to gain your inch back.

track stabbing is not an issue. when you compare mtn sleds to short tracks, you will see that the front pivot is typically around 9" back from the drive axle with the short tracks being half that distance.

do some math, take a long close look at your suspension, and consider my suggestion.
 
I am going to measure tonight while at the shop, good ideas. What I was hoping to accomplish was a slightly longer "wheel base" if you could call it. Longer distance between ski's and skid. Utilizing the 128" track can give more track contact to the ground, with out extending the tunnel. I suppose if I keep the transfer rods, I will also have to relocate the mount, or I can remove as I have an extra transfer enhancement kit. Al
 
I looked very closely at the SXR yesterday. It looks to me, to relocate rearward 3.5" Snowdad was correct, the front mount will be directly with the steering post mount. Now, please let me know, why can't I drill directly through the mount and use an allen head style bolt?? My other question was, the rear mount curretly is in stock location. If I relocate back, the mount will acctually have to be raised, due to the tunnel angle. It looks like the rear and center mount will be both be raised unless I use drop brackets. I have plenty of clearance, I do not particullary like the look of drop brackets either.
My thought is, with skid relocated back, more ski pressure will be present slightly, however if the rear of the skid is acutally raised slightly into the tunnel, more weight transfer will be present upon take off.
New 128" track is scheduled to arrive on Monday afternoon. Al
 
The stabbing occurs due to the increased length of track between the drivers and the rails. If you run your track loose (which many like to do including myself) the track can "bunch" up between the drivers and rails. The worst situation is hard braking or deceleration followed by WOT. The track gets pulled tight in that area and then quickly slackened which can cause it to balloon between the drivers and the rails. I have seen this happen to sleds even after you couldn't make it happen while checking on the stand.

I remember one particular night with Rich (Rich Motorsports) that got kinda wet. :lol:

I wouldn't drill the steering gate unless you reinforce it somehow. When I put an XTX skid in a Mtn Viper I researched this a bit and decided to locate behind the gate. It seems like there were other considerations as well.
 
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