bADa$$ SRX
New member
Was going to clean my carbs yesterday but it looks like ill have to pull out either the airbox or reed cages? Whats the best way. Also, is there any way to adjust the mixture screw without taking the carbs out? Sled is a '99 SRX 600
musselman
Active member
Airbox is much easier, gives you lots of room
To take the airbox off - 1 bolt by the steering gate (10mm) and the 3 clamps on the carburetors (phillips screws). Undo the 2 clamps to the heated carburetor hoses on each end of the carburetor rack and remove the hoses, but have a couple bolts ready to plug the hoses or coolant will spill out. Unhook the choke and throttle cables. Unplug the TPS sensor and snip the zip ties that hold the wiring to the rack. Unplug the TORS connectors. Undo the 3 fuel line clamps on the carburetors and remove the hoses. Undo the carb to reed cage clamps (phillips screws). Then pull the carburetors out of the reed cages. Really simple. Takes me about 1 hour total between removing carburetors, cleaning, and reassembling back on the sled.
To make reassembly easier, remove the 7 or so screws that hold the airbox cover on and take it off. Then you can reach in and line up the airbox to each carburetor so it doesn't double over.
When you have the carburetors out, if you remove the fuel screw on the bottom (which you should to clean), make sure you turn it in and count the turns in to lightly seated so you can reset them back correctly.
To make reassembly easier, remove the 7 or so screws that hold the airbox cover on and take it off. Then you can reach in and line up the airbox to each carburetor so it doesn't double over.
When you have the carburetors out, if you remove the fuel screw on the bottom (which you should to clean), make sure you turn it in and count the turns in to lightly seated so you can reset them back correctly.
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bADa$$ SRX
New member
alright thanks! and is there anyway to adjust the mixture screw without taking the carbs off?
pitz0022
New member
There is a post on here somewhere which shows how to make custom mixture screws so you don't have to remove the carbs, but in stock form, you'll need to pull the carb rack to adjust. You could probably leave the cables and coolant lines attached to do this adjustment though.
rx1jim
New member
Once you have the carbs off, plug the openings in the rubber boots with clean shop towels. That way nothing accidentally drops into the intake while your working on the sled. If something did drop in there, it would be caught by the reeds buy unless you look, you would not see it. Better off playing it safe.
With the airbox off, you can separate the halves of the box and clean it as well. The inside of the box gets coated with oil and gas from blow back out of the carbs. Might as well have the whole system clean.
With the airbox off, you can separate the halves of the box and clean it as well. The inside of the box gets coated with oil and gas from blow back out of the carbs. Might as well have the whole system clean.
pitz0022 said:
Which has to be the dumbest design Yamaha could have come up with.
Set and go............make sur u clen carbs........... I,,,,,,,, japanese service...........
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Mac
Member
Remote adjusters
Install something like this
Install something like this
Mac said:Remote adjusters
Install something like this
In the middle of making some now.
If anyone make there own, I recommend having atleast one extra screw. It's easy to smoke the threads on them and you're dead in the water
I extend my carb heater hoses so you can just flip the carb bank over for fuel screw adjustments. Although remotes would be nice.
Newbee said:
Do you have a picture? I can't picture how this would work
No unfortunately I didn't take any. But all I did was lengthen the hose on each side of the carb bank. Instead of the 4 to 5 inch hose I put about 8 to 9 inchs on each side.
I used it for the first time just about a week ago. I loosened the rings that hold the airbox boots to the carbs, took out the airbox, disconnected the fuel lines, then loosened the rings that secure the reed cage boots to the carbs. I did have to cut the zip-tie that secures the TORS wire bundle to the carb bank. After that I simply lifted it up, put some rags underneath the carb bank and rotated it forward so the bottoms of the carbs would be pointing toward the back of the sled. I adjusted the fuel screws then rotated them back down and reassembled in reverse.
I didn't opt to flip them up on the top of the cylinder heads because I was only adjusting fuel screws. If I were to rejet, then my plan was to take the throttle cable, choke cable off, and disconnect the throttle position sensor connection. Then roll it into a small baking pan on top of the heads and work on it. As for the oil cable I may have had to disconnect that also but I wanted to see if I could maneuver with it there. Putting it in the small baking pan was an idea so if something dropped it caught it.
Originally I was setting this up this way so if I had to do it out in the field it would be easier. I'm not sure if I'll ever do this out in the field or not. But I thought it might come in handy.
For what it's worth that's what I did.
I used it for the first time just about a week ago. I loosened the rings that hold the airbox boots to the carbs, took out the airbox, disconnected the fuel lines, then loosened the rings that secure the reed cage boots to the carbs. I did have to cut the zip-tie that secures the TORS wire bundle to the carb bank. After that I simply lifted it up, put some rags underneath the carb bank and rotated it forward so the bottoms of the carbs would be pointing toward the back of the sled. I adjusted the fuel screws then rotated them back down and reassembled in reverse.
I didn't opt to flip them up on the top of the cylinder heads because I was only adjusting fuel screws. If I were to rejet, then my plan was to take the throttle cable, choke cable off, and disconnect the throttle position sensor connection. Then roll it into a small baking pan on top of the heads and work on it. As for the oil cable I may have had to disconnect that also but I wanted to see if I could maneuver with it there. Putting it in the small baking pan was an idea so if something dropped it caught it.
Originally I was setting this up this way so if I had to do it out in the field it would be easier. I'm not sure if I'll ever do this out in the field or not. But I thought it might come in handy.
For what it's worth that's what I did.
2002viper
New member
after re installing the carbs and heated carb hoses, do you need to bleed the coolant sytem? mine's an 02 viper. If I have to bleed the system, how do I do it?