viper coolant bleed problem

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rodny51082

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so i just finished rebuilding the top end on my 03 viper. while i was at it i also put in a srx rear heat exchanger. i have been trying to bleed the system but im not sure if i am doing it right. i filled the resivor, warmed it up (took a while to do) and took out the bleed screw in the rear. i got some air to come out but from reading other posts i think i am suposed to do somthing with the 10 mill bolt next to the carb heater switch. so i took it out and i get nothing. should i see antifreeze come out of it or not. what is it for.
 

nope you bleed the sled using the bleeder plug on the rear exchanger. start sled let idol a min or so pick up back of sled shake it a little bit set it back down pull plug. till coolant comes out insert plug. repeat till air is out of the system. make sure sled is sitting level on the ground when you pull the bleeder plug. thats it.

Basically if you start the sled let it run and all the exchangers get warm. that typically means its bled good enough and the system is circulating coolant.
 
yes i did bleed at the rear heat exchanger and now just get a steady stream of coolant comeing out. my question is should i see coolant at the bleed screw in the head or not?
i took both bolts out of the heater switch(10 mill hex,allen bolt) and pulled it out some. still got nothing out of the top bolt but it was leaking out of the bottom bolt. is that what i should see?
 
ive heard of people trying to bleed the coolant from that spot before but to little avail. like i said if all your exchangers are getting warm you should be good to go. ive never tryed to bleed out of that front plug before so i couldnt tell ya what the exact effect would be. im sure others have played with the front plug before though.
 
andrew you have only bled it from the rear? have you had any problems with over heating? just want to get it right in my garage as the only rides i might get to do this year would be far north of me.
 
and nope never a problem with overheating. if your exchangers are heating up that means the coolant is flowing.
 
the allen bolt holds the switch in place that regulates the coolant flow thru the carbs. put back in place. put switch in the open position. try removing both the bleeder in back and one in head(10mm). pour coolant in res. replace screws when coolant flows out. run some, check level in res. make sure exchangers are getting warm. not sure but might help to open res. cap when warm. do so very slowly with a rag over cap. do not attempt if coolant level is near top. air should work its way out.
 
rodny51082 said:
yes i did bleed at the rear heat exchanger and now just get a steady stream of coolant comeing out. my question is should i see coolant at the bleed screw in the head or not?
i took both bolts out of the heater switch(10 mill hex,allen bolt) and pulled it out some. still got nothing out of the top bolt but it was leaking out of the bottom bolt. is that what i should see?
Click to expand...

It sounds like you removed the bolt that holds the carb heater valve in place.If so, you will not get only coolant from that bolt. If memory serves me correctly there is a bleed screw on the themostat housing.
 
pretty sure thats the bolt he tried. this was a big discussion a few years back. can't remember exactly but I think people had to partially pull out the carb heater knob to get anything to come out of that bolt. but the general consensus was it wasn't necessary.
 
yes stein i took both bolts out on heater switch. i did this because i also put in an opti cool head gasket from bender and the instructions that came with the gasket said to take the switch part way out to check for air but didnt exactly say what i should see when i do this.from other posts i have read many people have had problems with this. someone who knows should post a video
 
did an opticool on my sled two months ago. have had no problems with just the rear bleeder. dont overthink it. if exchangers heat up your golden.
 
Just bleed from the rear. You will beat your head against the wall till it bleeds :o| :o| :o| trying to get it to bleed from the head. It was a poor design. You have to loosen that bolt then if yours will still do it pull out the on/off valve a hair (and i mean a hair) and that will allow the coolant to bleed from that bolt hole. The on off valve is a stop for that hole also. Bleeding from the rear is all ya need. If it runs till the exchangers are all warm your ok.
 
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