2004 Sx Viper Mnt Elect Problem

M

mrvipey

New member
Joined
Jan 6, 2011
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5
Age
46
Location
North East Canada
Hi, I have a 04 sx viper mountain 7200km and have a electrical issue....
I start my sled these are the symptoms:
Headlights dim, no taillights working and no tach
Unplug headlights and tach works and tailights work fine..

I pulled the whole entire wiring harness from front to back and inspected each indivudal wire...all is fine, checked all the switches...good
Changed headlight relay and load control relay
Changed voltage regulator and stator assembly and 2 condensers
even changed headlight bulbs..

Can someone help me out with this issue I do not want to spend anymore money this sled and I ran out of options..

Thank you
 

Very curious that you have put a new stator on it, that is what this issue has usually been...a few have had the wire harness be the culprit. You went through the ones under the seat and around the handlebar area, as well as under the CDI?
Did you put on an OEM stator?
There was a thread not to long ago where a guy used some type of after market stator, and it wasn't providing enough voltage...OEM stator finally cured his problem.
 
do not want to depress you about your sled more than u already are, but in the future u really should test electrical components when possible instead of throwing $ at it. having said that mod-it man is asking u the proper ???
 
if you installed an aftermarket stator i would feel confident that was the problem. this means u are not out of options. pull that hard lesson off the old girl, treat her right with an o.e.m. stator maybe a little wine and candlelight, and you will both be happy again. we all learn the hard way now and again. like most people u should take the time to learn some basic elec. u will be glad u did. not as hard as u might think. then u will understand how to use a test meter. >90% of time u will be testing for voltage and or resistance. thats it. 2 things. the manual will tell u which places to place the 2 test probes. select proper setting on dial and then u are in charge. well good luck
 
davidgboy said:
if you installed an aftermarket stator i would feel confident that was the problem. this means u are not out of options. pull that hard lesson off the old girl, treat her right with an o.e.m. stator maybe a little wine and candlelight, and you will both be happy again. we all learn the hard way now and again. like most people u should take the time to learn some basic elec. u will be glad u did. not as hard as u might think. then u will understand how to use a test meter. >90% of time u will be testing for voltage and or resistance. thats it. 2 things. the manual will tell u which places to place the 2 test probes. select proper setting on dial and then u are in charge. well good luck
Click to expand...


I would agree that most times simple testing like described above will yield satisfactory results... except when dealing with ignition components (i.e. ignition coils, stators - thingys with wire windings and sensors/actuators too).

A good example is SideshowBob's TPS testing. Without testing it dynamically, he may not have been able to condemn it. The test procedure in the shop manual isn't robust against this failure mode (nor is the self test capabilities of the CDI) and would not have found it faulty.

Simple resistance checks don't always find a short in the winding. IOW, the component might check out fine when testing resistance but fails during operation. In which case swapping with a known good part is the only way to rule it out.

But again I agree that learning simple voltage/resistance testing will, more times than not, help greatly.
 
Thanks people for the comments. I am going to try a new oem stator because this aftermarket stator i would say is the issue.... I tested the oem stator for resistance it was .3 to .4 ohms but that u said it could be still the problem.

When i get my new oem stator, i'll post it inform you.

Thanks again
 
snomofo good points. just wanted to get people who are afraid of electrical to give it a chance. in my first post i did say "test when possible". yup sometimes components test or act differently when in operation. nice to be able to swap known good comp. i am going to try and test t.p.s. by using a probe that pierces the insulation. if i probe carefully, the voltage feed wire and middle wire that feeds voltage back to c.d.i. and of course put negative probe to ground might get somewhere doing that. could test with sled running without extra harnesses. i think
 
Aftermarket stators suck. Go OEM and I bet you're issue goes away. One more question though. How did the plugs at the stator look?
 
davidgboy said:
snomofo good points. just wanted to get people who are afraid of electrical to give it a chance. in my first post i did say "test when possible". yup sometimes components test or act differently when in operation. nice to be able to swap known good comp. i am going to try and test t.p.s. by using a probe that pierces the insulation. if i probe carefully, the voltage feed wire and middle wire that feeds voltage back to c.d.i. and of course put negative probe to ground might get somewhere doing that. could test with sled running without extra harnesses. i think
Click to expand...


I hope I didn't come off as suggesting your post wasn't good info. For the novice (we were all one at some point) electrical stuff can be intimidating and you were correct in pointing out that it ain't rocket science. I just thought I'd add that there are rare occations when the only way to know for sure is swapping parts. In fact, in my line of work ABA verification (remove original, install new, reinstall original) is the best form of identifying root-cause.

I would caution against piercing wires and back probing connectors. I've been burned a couple times diagnosing (you'd think I'd have learned the first time) assuming the wires I'm testing were intact but after a closer visual inspection find the pierce point in the insulation and the coorisponding corrosion hidden under the unsulation. I do use spring loaded piercing probes on the bench, dyno and on occation on a test vehicle but these vehicles are scrapped when we're done with them. If you're going to pierce the wire on a vehicle that sees the eliments I'd suggest using Liquid tape, Plasti-dip or even silicone to seal it up.

...and aftermarket stuff may be cheaper up front, but usually costs more in unneeded parts, aggravation, tool holes in drywall and lumps in the forehead.
 
snomofo said:
I hope I didn't come off as suggesting your post wasn't good info. For the novice (we were all one at some point) electrical stuff can be intimidating and you were correct in pointing out that it ain't rocket science. I just thought I'd add that there are rare occations when the only way to know for sure is swapping parts. In fact, in my line of work ABA verification (remove original, install new, reinstall original) is the best form of identifying root-cause.

I would caution against piercing wires and back probing connectors. I've been burned a couple times diagnosing (you'd think I'd have learned the first time) assuming the wires I'm testing were intact but after a closer visual inspection find the pierce point in the insulation and the coorisponding corrosion hidden under the unsulation. I do use spring loaded piercing probes on the bench, dyno and on occation on a test vehicle but these vehicles are scrapped when we're done with them. If you're going to pierce the wire on a vehicle that sees the eliments I'd suggest using Liquid tape, Plasti-dip or even silicone to seal it up.

...and aftermarket stuff may be cheaper up front, but usually costs more in unneeded parts, aggravation, tool holes in drywall and lumps in the forehead.
Click to expand...

Lol, I see you work on things like I do.
 
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