davidgboy
New member
try to adjust oil pump cable to factory specs(20.5mm), and threaded rod on end of cable from pump, comes out of barrel adjuster that end of cable from throttle sets into. can only create about a14mm gap before it comes apart. same on nephews 2001 srx. the manual misidentifies the location of the locking nut in the picture. could this spec. also be a mistake?
davidgboy
New member
i mean the adjuster comes off of threaded rod.
staggs65
Moderator
how about a picture of what you're measuring. never had a problem getting within the spec range on any of mine. you can actually get quite a ways beyond it usually
Devilin AblueDress!
New member
Are you trying to adjust it at the pump? Or the sleeve in the middle of the cable?
Bousez
New member
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- Jan 22, 2012
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no mistake in tha manual.....!
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
we need a pic of what part you are talking about in reality..is it at the pump or further up on the line..bluemonster1 said:
davidgboy
New member
its in the middle of cable. well not really middle. not great with computer so not bothering with picture. will try to get my nephew to help. it is same place as in manual. i could be bumping my head but i swear i can only get 14mm of gap max. just checked again. the threaded rod section is only about 14-15mm long. there is no way to get the factory spec. could this be a cable for another application that got put on at factory because they did not have the right ones or maybe an error? or was the threaded rod section the wrong one used when cable was made up? the adjuster is long enuf to provide for spec. the threaded rod section is not. i swear i know how to use a tape measure.(need to buy new vernier caliper no cheapo this time.)
cable
OK I always feel like such a nube here that I do not post often. But I think I know your assumption. you are not supposed to be measuring the threaded area. If you read the manual close what it tells you to do is pull up on the cable (gently) but as far as it will go. This pulls the cable housing up an exposes the bare cable. What you are measuring for gap is the distance from the edge of the metal coupling housing to the edge of your cable housing( while exposed and under tension). This gives you a mm number. Then you move the adjuster nut up or down respectively. How far that nut is from the solid nut on the other end of the coupling nut has no relevance.
Please chime in guys if I am wrong. I am not right often, but I think here I might be.
OK I always feel like such a nube here that I do not post often. But I think I know your assumption. you are not supposed to be measuring the threaded area. If you read the manual close what it tells you to do is pull up on the cable (gently) but as far as it will go. This pulls the cable housing up an exposes the bare cable. What you are measuring for gap is the distance from the edge of the metal coupling housing to the edge of your cable housing( while exposed and under tension). This gives you a mm number. Then you move the adjuster nut up or down respectively. How far that nut is from the solid nut on the other end of the coupling nut has no relevance.
Please chime in guys if I am wrong. I am not right often, but I think here I might be.
bluewho
Active member
Your right on with that explanation.If you added some throttle adjuster for high/lowspeed or a block like you have stated in past posts you are pulling on the cable at idle.That is likely why you cant get the proper gap or have a funtiong tors.
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cable tension
Thank, I think he is measuring the wrong end. he is talking about only 14mm of thread. the distance from the solid nut/body to the moving threaded (Tube?) nut. That measurement is useless. You are trying to measure the slack you have when the cable is relaxed and back inside it's housing. Right?
Thank, I think he is measuring the wrong end. he is talking about only 14mm of thread. the distance from the solid nut/body to the moving threaded (Tube?) nut. That measurement is useless. You are trying to measure the slack you have when the cable is relaxed and back inside it's housing. Right?
davidgboy
New member
hey maxco thanx . i was not using proper procedure. i do not see in manual where it says to do it that way. was not looking at picture the right way. manual just says to loosen locknut and turn adjuster to obtain spec. sometimes i miss the more obvious stuff. oh bluewho- throttle has proper slack thanx for your concern. i do have a high idle provision. works great. 2000-2200 r.p.m. for warmup seems nice. can set warm idle down low to avoid idle hang. nope no t.o.r.s. switch on rack. just a spring loaded screw. perfect.