Basic Engine Rebuild Q

OldIron

OldIron

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Ok, I'm just about to throw pistons, jugs and heads on my 04 mtn viper. I have a few questions.

1. Do the wrist pin circlips need any sort or orientation in their groove? Does the open end need to point in any certain direction?

2. Wrist pin orientation? Either end either way?

3. Wrist pin bearing...can you put this in backwards?

4. Piston has arrow that is supposed to point toward the exhaust side of the engine...is that correct?

5 Rings have a "T" on them. From what I read this should face upward and the rings need to be aligned with the alignment dowl in the ring groove. Is that correct?

Sorry for the petty questions but I'd like a little insurance that I'm doing this the correct way.

Thanks in advance.
 
Newbee said:
Ok, I'm just about to throw pistons, jugs and heads on my 04 mtn viper. I have a few questions.

1. Do the wrist pin circlips need any sort or orientation in their groove? Does the open end need to point in any certain direction?
NO ORIENTATION BUT MAKE SURE TO USE NEW ONES NEVER REUSE A CIRCLIP -- WHEN I REMOVE THE OLD ONES I TWIST THEM INTO AN "S" SO THEY DO NOT GET REUSED.

2. Wrist pin orientation? Either end either way?
THAT IS CORRECT

3. Wrist pin bearing...can you put this in backwards?
NO

4. Piston has arrow that is supposed to point toward the exhaust side of the engine...is that correct?
YES

5 Rings have a "T" on them. From what I read this should face upward and the rings need to be aligned with the alignment dowl in the ring groove. Is that correct? CORRECT - ALSO NEED TO CHECK FOR RING ENDGAP PRIOR TO INSTALLING.....I THINK 15 THAOUSANDS BUT YOU NEED TO DOUBLE CHECK-- IF NO ALIGNMENT DOWL THEN ALWAYS KEEP THE OPEN ENDS 180 DEGREES FROM EACH OTHER.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks for the info Tod. I really appreciate it.

I take it that end gap is the non-compressed gap between the two free ends once on the piston? I'm thinking mine should be fine since the pistons, rings, circlips and bearings are all new and OEM.
 
I would place the rings in the cylinders 1 by 1 and then check the end gap to specs.If they are to tight,file off until ok.Take them out in order and back in on piston in same order.
 
one thing i would watch for is the placement of the base gasket, it can be installed upside down. i found out the hard way on mine. all three holes in the front of the gasket are different sizes. ther is also a tab on the gasket that goes on the mag side of the crankcase.
 
rodny51082 said:
one thing i would watch for is the placement of the base gasket, it can be installed upside down. i found out the hard way on mine. all three holes in the front of the gasket are different sizes. ther is also a tab on the gasket that goes on the mag side of the crankcase.
Click to expand...
very good reminder also..... ;)!
 
Thanks, I will do all of the above mentioned things. This is such a great site, I really appreciate all the great advice and reminders that I've forgotten. Thanks again!
 
also make sure the opening on wrist pin clips are t 12 or 6 oclock position i had a polaris that lost clips out of one of the pistons and pin worked out and was not good polaris gave me new engine claimed where in with opening at 3 o clock and piston moving up and down caused clips to compress and fall out
 
tractordanp said:
also make sure the opening on wrist pin clips are t 12 or 6 oclock position i had a polaris that lost clips out of one of the pistons and pin worked out and was not good polaris gave me new engine claimed where in with opening at 3 o clock and piston moving up and down caused clips to compress and fall out
Click to expand...

How big of a deal is this? I think I have them in different orientations. I just got the head on and I'm wondering if I need to go back for them. I'm hoping someone can say "don't worry it's not a polaris! Leave them as is!"

Thanks tractordan for the warning.
 
Last edited:
Well, now I've seen it in the book. I suppose I'll have to go back in. Bummer!!
 
rodny51082 said:
any good snow in vt tractor dan? is lake champlain even frozen over enough yet to be considered safe?
Click to expand...
i am in southe=western vermont right next to mount tabor been offle this year on six sled i think i have 15 miles on them around my little field :( not sure on the lake i dont get up that way but i will let you know once we get some riding here :letitsnow :letitsnow :letitsnow :letitsnow
 
Newbee said:
How big of a deal is this? I think I have them in different orientations. I just got the head on and I'm wondering if I need to go back for them. I'm hoping someone can say "don't worry it's not a polaris! Leave them as is!"

Thanks tractordan for the warning.
Click to expand...
not sure if its a real big deal but i grew up tinkering in the garage with my great uncle and he always told me that with the clicps i have also seen it happen in a 6 cylinder ford diesel guess its just natural being uncle raymond said its the way
rip uncle raymond
 
rodny51082 said:
any good snow in vt tractor dan? is lake champlain even frozen over enough yet to be considered safe?
Click to expand...

I was up in coles pond this weekend and the riding was incredible. Just have to watch for downed limbs. It kind of looked like (just driving through) that anything east and north of montpelier is rideable. After the rain on friday there was a fair amount of snow dropped in that area.
 
Newbee said:
Thanks for the info Tod. I really appreciate it.

I take it that end gap is the non-compressed gap between the two free ends once on the piston? I'm thinking mine should be fine since the pistons, rings, circlips and bearings are all new and OEM.
Click to expand...

So newbee, do you understand how to check the ring end gap? Its not the way you were thinking. New OEM may not be ok.... all mine were but its not always the case.

Tod
 
Yes I did figure that out. I saw or read a few posts after I searched for it. For my sled I believe it was suppose to be .014" to .022" I measured them all in the cylinders.. then moved them over to their respective piston and piston position. They were all from .018 to .020"

I also went in and made sure all circlips were at the 1200 0'clock position.

I pretty much finished up the engine. Just have to add reeds and coil harness. However, I did end up taking the engine and the exhaust manifold to a local machine shop. If you put a straight edge across the exhaust ports the mag side port had a gap that got larger toward the outside. Also if you put a straight edge across the exhaust manifold ports the manifold is convex or curved away from the straight edge.

I think this is what lead to the burndown. I think the prior owner burned it down once. Had the cylinder repaired, then put it in and ended up stripping the studs out. He tried to fix this by putting bolts in where the stripped and broken studs were. I bought it but didn't catch this and I had a burndown. I think the prior owner didn't catch that the exhaust manifold wasn't seating correctly on the exhaust ports. Thus he kept stripping the studs because the exhaust manifold was acting like a teeder todder and wouldn't seat.

When it comes back from the machine shop I'm hoping no more burndowns.
 
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