Trailboss 03 Viper
New member
I reaplaced damaged hose from thermostat to head and need to bleed system.I have shop manual and went on faq section.I bled rear screw with no bubbles.When I try screw on carb heater,nothing comes out.Should I be running it first?Going riding up north tomorrow morning.I don't want to screw this up! Any advice is much appriciated.

bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
a fast way that worked for me without running motor right away was I put my mouth on the rad cap opening and blew air thru..this pushes the coolant.I add as I needed.Then eventually I see coolant come out of the rear bleed and I know I am almost there.Then I start motor and the coolant comes out steady..cap it and run till exchangers are all warm..
Trailboss 03 Viper
New member
I'm getting a constant flow to rear bleed as I didn't have to drain whole system to change hose.I just can't get it out of front bleed where carb heater is.
musselman
Active member
I couldn't get it to come out there either. I just bled it from the rear then filled the coolant bottle and ran it till warm. The level was down a bit after so I just topped it up and it has been good since.
davidgboy
New member
musselman said:I couldn't get it to come out there either. I just bled it from the rear then filled the coolant bottle and ran it till warm. The level was down a bit after so I just topped it up and it has been good since.
bingo! although mine would come out from head bleeder it is not mandatory. system seems capable of purging air quite well.
I did two opticool head gaskets a few months ago. Had the same problem with trying to bleed the front. Blowing in the overflow tank will not work for the front on a viper. I even tried slightly pressurizing it (not too much because you'll do damage) and that didn't work.
I ended up bleeding the rear exchanger, then running the machine with the cap off for until it warmed up enough I knew fluid was moving. Capped it, shut it down and let it cool thoroughly. Filled reservoir to cold line then fired it up again with cap on and let it warm up. I felt each heat exchanger to make sure they were all warm. It's been good to go since.
I ended up bleeding the rear exchanger, then running the machine with the cap off for until it warmed up enough I knew fluid was moving. Capped it, shut it down and let it cool thoroughly. Filled reservoir to cold line then fired it up again with cap on and let it warm up. I felt each heat exchanger to make sure they were all warm. It's been good to go since.
Vipersncbrs
New member
just bleed from rear bolt its the easyest and works every time
if you run the sled and all of your exchangers warm up you know the coolant is circulating and your golden. 

To bleed coolant at the head you need to partially remove the on/off valve for the carbs. It blocks the bleed screw otherwise.
davidgboy
New member
i did not have to with mine, but this would be the most effective way. have to remove allen head bolt that points downward. turn valve back and forth while pulling with pliers.rz500 said:To bleed coolant at the head you need to partially remove the on/off valve for the carbs. It blocks the bleed screw otherwise.
Trailboss 03 Viper
New member
Thanks for all the good advice.Going ripping this weekend in Rangeley,Maine .Hope it's not to boney! 
