1320 SRX gearing?

Bullit01

Bullit01

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Hi guys just wondering if everyone is running stock gearing or gearing down for that lenght of track on ice. I am running 2001 srx.
 

im running stock gearing in my viper. it depends on what you are wanting to do with your sled i suppose. right out of the box they have pretty long legs.
 
So stock gearing. you don't think gearing down to like 23-40 would be better?
 
Bullit01 said:
looking for some top speed in the 1320 ft.
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remember 1 thing, the quicker the e.t. is, the LESS time you are on the track to build mph. So by gearing down you are making the sled quicker.... gearing up makes the sled faster..... now pick your poison :flag:
 
mrviper700 said:
remember 1 thing, the quicker the e.t. is, the LESS time you are on the track to build mph. So by gearing down you are making the sled quicker.... gearing up makes the sled faster..... now pick your poison :flag:
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You would think a quicker E.T would result in a faster speed by the end of a certain distance, you may have less time to accelerate but since you covered X distance in less time, doesn't that mean you accelerated faster in the given time so speed reading should be higher? hmmm.
 
if you ran out of gear though you wouldnt just keep accelerating, you reach a top speed quicker and cover the distance faster where taller gears keep accelarating the full distance and by the end reach a higher top speed. or at least thats what I get out of it.
 
It takes time to build MPH...you occasionally see it at the drag strip when the car or bike that finishes second at times has a higher MPH but slower time...can be confusing.
Obviously the first car would have a higher "Average Speed" but the second car has a higher "Terminal Velocity"
 
FOR SPEED, NOT E.T. , IF YOUR GEARED CORRECTLY FOR THE DISTANCE YOUR RUNNING, YOU STILL SHOULD BE GAINING MPH AT THE TRAPS, FINISH LINE, (whatever). ANOTHER WORDS, YOUR ARMS SHOULD STILL BE STRETCHED. IF NOT YOUR PEAKED. 3:16 (yammie tony)
 
u need to put a black mark on ur primary and do ur test run for ur distance ur racing then ck ur black mark if the mark is still 1 inch down on ur primary at the finish line it means ur still accelerating but not at ur max speed for that distance so u would gear down may be 2 teeth and test again if that black mark is wiped off means ur clutching is shifted all the way out and u could gear up 1 tooth and test again. test and test til u got what u want the weights u use and springs are all going to factor in with ur set up not any two the same as ur body weight has an effect on that allso
 
hows this for speed on a long track nytro 121 km per hour in 500 feet only pulling 8200 rpm should be at 88 rpm got 1st in stock 600 2nd in 600 imp and 3rd snow pro 600 run against a f7 cat lost in the last 100 ft on a 650 foot track now if that was a 500 foot track buy buy f7
 
LaPorte429 said:
You would think a quicker E.T would result in a faster speed by the end of a certain distance, you may have less time to accelerate but since you covered X distance in less time, doesn't that mean you accelerated faster in the given time so speed reading should be higher? hmmm.
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not really, the differance is the word "quicker" and "faster", (quicker).. covers the ground in less time, not more mph as faster applies to.

take for instance in this case, he is gonna run 1320 ft, same as I run on asphalt. By gearing my sled down, it will have a quicker 660ft et, that means it was quicker to half track, usually will be close to the same mph in such a short distance but right around the 1000ft mark its going slower mph. It only keeps getting more mph till I shift the clutch all the way out, by 1000ft I am pretty much done gaining mph and just along for the ride because the belt drive has reached its maximum gear ratio, just for lamen terms its done shifting, so the mph remains constant.

now.... going to the opposite end of the spectrum with same scenario, gearing the sled up to more mph then we can actually achieve does 2 things. It slows the shift down and gives the sled and clutchs more time to get to full shift. If you want a simple lamen analagy, your winding out the gears more(longer), so you get more mph. The belt doesnt go right to full shift out but rather takes longer to get there and gives you a better drive ratio on the belt, your not bending the belt down into the rear clutch as far and it transmits more power to the track, it also reduces belt speed which gives you longer belt life.

the trick is to go out and test your exact combo because its all differnt from sled to sled, depends on factors like parasetic drag, rotating weight, hp. of the engine at peak and of course your clutching /gearing combo.

On purpose..., I am leaving out overdrive clutch scenario because its been debated numerous times and its too confusing for most to grip, this is just the basics.

your stock srx gearing 23/38 is good for about 110mph...
 
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I shouldnt add this.... :o| but anytime you raise the rpm of an engine via pipes,porting,etc, you raise the mph you can achieve with the same gear set.
More hp will pull more mph with same gear set, but dont want to muddy up the water too much here, :itchy: because the O.P. just wanted a simple answer.

since a srx was asked about, 23/38 at 8500rpm is good for about 110mph if everything is working correctly, so if that is the mph your trying to achieve, go out and start to test set ups........ :EXER:
 
I LOVE THE OLD SHARPIE TRICK. MAN THATS BEEN AROUND LONGER THAN ME. PROBLEM IS YOU WILL NEVER EVER CLEAN THAT LINE COMPLETELY OFF. FIRST YOUR HIT YOUR PEAK BEFORE THAT AND YOU WILL NEED 700 MILES TO DO IT. WITH A STOCK SLED ANYWAYS. THATS WHY YAMAHA BEEN GEARING THEIR SLEDS FOR THE MOON FOR THIRTY YEARS. 3:16 (yammie tony)
 
did they make sharpies that far back?????..................LOL!!
 
mrviper700 said:
I shouldnt add this.... :o| but anytime you raise the rpm of an engine via pipes,porting,etc, you raise the mph you can achieve with the same gear set.
More hp will pull more mph with same gear set, but dont want to muddy up the water too much here, :itchy: because the O.P. just wanted a simple answer.

since a srx was asked about, 23/38 at 8500rpm is good for about 110mph if everything is working correctly, so if that is the mph your trying to achieve, go out and start to test set ups........ :EXER:
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thanks for the info. i dont know why that didnt occur to me myself. when i was setting my sled up. i used to have a 91 mustang gt sweet car no rust 2 inch cowl hood candy apple red. 17 inch cobra wheels with nitto street slicks 5 speed supercharged. novi 1220 quiet series. low boost bout 5 to 6 lbs @ 6000 rpm. but what i did was put a aod computer in my car out of an auto for hotter timing and no rev limiter. id take her up to 7k all the time an she handled it like a champ. made awesome power. had many additional add ons for additional support of coarse wont get into details... but the higher r's that i was now achieving essentially geared it up. so when i put me 3.55's in it was perfect for what i wanted. just kind of an anology i guess.
 
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