Ok clutching is new to me but I need to get smart on it. I've read a lot of posts and I've been through the tech section. My first question is "in the perfect world" should a clutch allow the engine to go to it's best torque rpm and then stay there throughout the pull up to max speed? I'm just trying to view the desired outcome.
I have a viper that was over-revving up to 9100 to 9200 rpm (all stock except can). So I decided to throw my other vipers clutch on which was a non-electric start clutch unlike the first. With the second clutch the initial off the line was about 8600 to 8700 rpm then it crept up to 8900 rpm in the middle but slowly came down to 8600 rpm toward the end of the pull. Is this clutch acting correctly or does it need some tuning also?
Both these sleds are mtn vipers with stock mtn setup (except can).
Weights 8DN 10
Rivets over-revving clutch (inner-there's a rivet, tip nothing)
Rivets in better clutch (inner-a rivet, outer-a rivet)
rollers 15.6mm
Primary spring GWG
The averaged weight of over-revving clutch weights (with rivets)= 46.683 g
The averaged weight of better clutch weights (with rivets) = 43.926 g
Over-revving clutch spring is 91.06 mm length
Better clutch spring length is 89.3 mm length
The book says it should be 89.8 mm
Not really paying any attention to the secondary I was thinking about doing the following:
Add either 2.7 g rivet or 3.1 g rivet to the tip of the bad clutch weight. That would get the overall average weight to the same as the better clutch. However, I'm thinking that without knowing which rivet weights are in the inside and tip, my logic may be faulty. However, I think it should get me close. Is this reasonable?
Also I was thinking that the spring on the over-revving clutch needs to be replaced since it is longer then what it's suppose to be. Is replacing it logical or is it close enough?
I'd appreciate any insight.
I have a viper that was over-revving up to 9100 to 9200 rpm (all stock except can). So I decided to throw my other vipers clutch on which was a non-electric start clutch unlike the first. With the second clutch the initial off the line was about 8600 to 8700 rpm then it crept up to 8900 rpm in the middle but slowly came down to 8600 rpm toward the end of the pull. Is this clutch acting correctly or does it need some tuning also?
Both these sleds are mtn vipers with stock mtn setup (except can).
Weights 8DN 10
Rivets over-revving clutch (inner-there's a rivet, tip nothing)
Rivets in better clutch (inner-a rivet, outer-a rivet)
rollers 15.6mm
Primary spring GWG
The averaged weight of over-revving clutch weights (with rivets)= 46.683 g
The averaged weight of better clutch weights (with rivets) = 43.926 g
Over-revving clutch spring is 91.06 mm length
Better clutch spring length is 89.3 mm length
The book says it should be 89.8 mm
Not really paying any attention to the secondary I was thinking about doing the following:
Add either 2.7 g rivet or 3.1 g rivet to the tip of the bad clutch weight. That would get the overall average weight to the same as the better clutch. However, I'm thinking that without knowing which rivet weights are in the inside and tip, my logic may be faulty. However, I think it should get me close. Is this reasonable?
Also I was thinking that the spring on the over-revving clutch needs to be replaced since it is longer then what it's suppose to be. Is replacing it logical or is it close enough?
I'd appreciate any insight.