bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
On my SRX with the 8bu-10's I original had .85 g inner hole and 5.7 grams tip.There may have been a slight hesitation when launching from a stop.Usually one aims for 8200 out of the hole..sometime I was and other time she struggle to get only 8000 and then to 8200 and then climbed to 8500.
So I figure I am running to much tip weight.So I switch the tip rivet to 4.4grams and left inner at .85 grams.Now this set up should help a little on launch I am thinking.
Another member told me to distribute the weight from tip to inner. So if I go from 4.4 grams down to 3.9 grams tip and go from .85 grams inner to 1.4 grams innerthat the motor will be more snappy and no hesitation feeling or meuhhh!! sound.He is having great results from this set up on a ported SRX with slight over rev.
We both are using w-w-w primary.I have the 51/43 with green at 70 and he has 50/43 with green at 70.
Now others have chimed in saying that the stock SRX y-w-y spring is better to use with the 8bu-10's.
Since I am no clutching guru and miss Turk's input here,can some one explain the transfer of rivet weight in the arms and how going from a w-w-w to a y-w-y spring effects things.The stock y-w-y should have more force and still engage the same as w-w-w.
Is all the weight at the tip mostly for all out radar type runs and weight distributed in the arm more for trail and wot runs and still achieve good speeds.
Thanks.
So I figure I am running to much tip weight.So I switch the tip rivet to 4.4grams and left inner at .85 grams.Now this set up should help a little on launch I am thinking.
Another member told me to distribute the weight from tip to inner. So if I go from 4.4 grams down to 3.9 grams tip and go from .85 grams inner to 1.4 grams innerthat the motor will be more snappy and no hesitation feeling or meuhhh!! sound.He is having great results from this set up on a ported SRX with slight over rev.
We both are using w-w-w primary.I have the 51/43 with green at 70 and he has 50/43 with green at 70.
Now others have chimed in saying that the stock SRX y-w-y spring is better to use with the 8bu-10's.
Since I am no clutching guru and miss Turk's input here,can some one explain the transfer of rivet weight in the arms and how going from a w-w-w to a y-w-y spring effects things.The stock y-w-y should have more force and still engage the same as w-w-w.
Is all the weight at the tip mostly for all out radar type runs and weight distributed in the arm more for trail and wot runs and still achieve good speeds.
Thanks.
blue just to let u know if u doesnt race don't put that rpm so low at launch ..everyone tell its the way to do it but i do not really like it .....doesnt work good for trail .....u can play 100 rpm but don't go so low ..ur smile will come back take me 3 year do found out lolllll.......the way u are with those rpm if u race on a rolling start your gonna be far behind ................ motor is way more loaded and u loose alots of zap eatch corner to corner...going with a y-w-y will make the clutch slower to shift ....could work if u got to mutch gram in it
snoprokidf6
Member
not sure on the spring choices as i'm still learning about clutching, but putting more weight in the inner hole will throw shift force grabbing the belt harder on launch. in theory it should rid you of your bog or enhance it as possibly you sled may not have the right set up for pull that kinda weight. i'd try a shallower start angle on your helix.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
well that is the only helix I have besides the 47 stock and not gonna spend any more money now,Will work with what I have here.Still think I would like to launch to 8200ish and climb from there.Last time out seemed like it was going to 8200,then dropped 8000 and back up to 8200 and then to 8600.Think I have to much weight in tip,so now removed 1.3g from each weight on tip.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
mod I will try your set-up,but your ported..so you have a little more power..hence you are over reving..so maybe I won't...
try it blue ..dont bugg that sled on start up blue keep it around 8400 blue ........it bug blue cause u try to run to mutch weight ....motor is loaded to mutch ...
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bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
roger that mod 
You are the new clutching expert now... 
You are the new clutching expert now...
i think u run a pretty aggresive helix blue ....
bluewho
Active member
Certrifical forse= the moters ability to spin the clutch from a idle to overcome the spring and supply the weight against the rollers.If you can grab the throttle and pin it with the sled on a stand a properly tuned moter should rev very fast to peak rpm.
Ushally if it scares you doing this it will scare you off the line.
The inner rivot is were the weight is on the roller at the start of movement but is also helped by the profile and weight of the rest of the arm when the spring is overcome.
Once the clutch is underway and going for full revs the rivot on the end is at roller contact so it is supplying the forse needed for full shiftout.But is also helped by the style of the arm and total weight of the arm with that inner rivot.A smaller roller would let the arm pivot more to the tip giveing you more push if the arm is designed for it.
Once you get that fiqured out than you move to the secondary to fiqure out were ist gear is................proper srarting ramp on your helix.
.
Ushally if it scares you doing this it will scare you off the line.
The inner rivot is were the weight is on the roller at the start of movement but is also helped by the profile and weight of the rest of the arm when the spring is overcome.
Once the clutch is underway and going for full revs the rivot on the end is at roller contact so it is supplying the forse needed for full shiftout.But is also helped by the style of the arm and total weight of the arm with that inner rivot.A smaller roller would let the arm pivot more to the tip giveing you more push if the arm is designed for it.
Once you get that fiqured out than you move to the secondary to fiqure out were ist gear is................proper srarting ramp on your helix.
.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
measured the helix ramps as per Turk's trick.Take a medium sise nut and place on the ramo,lay a magnetic angle finder on top of the nut and look at the scale.On top of my ramp shows about 50 and bottom of ramp shows about 40.This is on a 51/43 helix..gets ya close.
Monster that 51/43 helix is from an rx1 correct? If so then it sounds like your measurements are accurate, they are less aggressive than advertised by Yamaha, just different method of measuring I suppose.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
the one I have is a Dalton.I have an OEM one in my 600.Both look different in finish..Dalton more shiny finish and the OEM kinda rough looking .
blue set them at 51.5 gram your gonna be in the ball park ....53 will work like yammi with a 38 finish angle
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
have everything apart on the bench now..don't really have snow to ride,so no rush putting it all back together now..if it snows some..I will..If you are happy with your results..I will go by that...thanks for your help and all the 1000's of PM's..lmao
we just try to make the sled works the best way ........im studd with 144 now blue like u are i think .it will overrave on ice not on snow
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
correct about studs..true it would over rev on ice more...and river is mainly ice,not much snow on top.Again not any good hard pack snow this year to test on.....modsrx said: