Oyvind Ryeng
New member
Gentlemen, once again I beseech ye.
Will a kind soul please tell me, the one who is supposed to be an apprentice electrician, just how the headlights are supposed to work?
From what I can gather from studying the schematic:
When the engine has been started and the CDI-box senses that the stator is generating sufficient power, it will energize the coil of the load control relay, sending power to the 20A fuse labeled "C". The fuse feeds the high beam switch and the top side of the NO contact of the high beam relay through the Light blue/White wire. Assume the low beam is active. The light switch is conduting power to both light bulbs through the green wire.
Hold on to your hats now, this next step is what throws a sixteen inch crescent wrench into my spinning primary clutch:
While the low beam is active, as earlier assumed, the power is not only sent to the low beam side of the bulbs, oh no. The power is also sent to the coil of the high beam relay, thereby activating it. But oh no, now both filaments of both bulbs are on at the same time, according the the schematic. However, I know with 96% certinty from looking at the actual light on the snow in front of me that the light switches according to the rule of "OR". High beam OR low beam, NOT high beam AND low beam. Low beam sends a lot of light near the sled, and high beam sends alot of light way far out in the distance.
Let's complete our work-through of the schematic. We will now assume that we are running on the high beam. Voltage is not present at the lower end of the light switch, thus the green wire is dead, the low beams are not lit up. Voltage is also not present at the top side of the NO contact of the high beam relay, and as such, the NO contact is not conducting power to the high beam filament. In conclusion, there is now no lights when the switch is in the high beam position. From simple observation, I can proudly say that this is not true. As delivered from Iwate, Japan, the sled will switch low/high, not low and high together at the same time and then nothing. I'm missing something while looking over the schematic, but I just don't see it, and because I just don't see it I will go ahead and assume it's a blatantly obvious and completely stupid near-insignificant little thing.
The reason for my sudden and unexpected interest in this topic is that I have retrofitted a pair of Morimoto Mini D2S bi-xenon projectors in the headlight, but I have no high beam, even despite spending several hours out in the garage, throwing mystic rituals w/ frenzied dancing, sacrificing goats on the altar of Ohm and cursing at the blasted thing.
We love pictures, so I grabbed one from the manual to illustrate the issue:
Will a kind soul please tell me, the one who is supposed to be an apprentice electrician, just how the headlights are supposed to work?
From what I can gather from studying the schematic:
When the engine has been started and the CDI-box senses that the stator is generating sufficient power, it will energize the coil of the load control relay, sending power to the 20A fuse labeled "C". The fuse feeds the high beam switch and the top side of the NO contact of the high beam relay through the Light blue/White wire. Assume the low beam is active. The light switch is conduting power to both light bulbs through the green wire.
Hold on to your hats now, this next step is what throws a sixteen inch crescent wrench into my spinning primary clutch:
While the low beam is active, as earlier assumed, the power is not only sent to the low beam side of the bulbs, oh no. The power is also sent to the coil of the high beam relay, thereby activating it. But oh no, now both filaments of both bulbs are on at the same time, according the the schematic. However, I know with 96% certinty from looking at the actual light on the snow in front of me that the light switches according to the rule of "OR". High beam OR low beam, NOT high beam AND low beam. Low beam sends a lot of light near the sled, and high beam sends alot of light way far out in the distance.
Let's complete our work-through of the schematic. We will now assume that we are running on the high beam. Voltage is not present at the lower end of the light switch, thus the green wire is dead, the low beams are not lit up. Voltage is also not present at the top side of the NO contact of the high beam relay, and as such, the NO contact is not conducting power to the high beam filament. In conclusion, there is now no lights when the switch is in the high beam position. From simple observation, I can proudly say that this is not true. As delivered from Iwate, Japan, the sled will switch low/high, not low and high together at the same time and then nothing. I'm missing something while looking over the schematic, but I just don't see it, and because I just don't see it I will go ahead and assume it's a blatantly obvious and completely stupid near-insignificant little thing.
The reason for my sudden and unexpected interest in this topic is that I have retrofitted a pair of Morimoto Mini D2S bi-xenon projectors in the headlight, but I have no high beam, even despite spending several hours out in the garage, throwing mystic rituals w/ frenzied dancing, sacrificing goats on the altar of Ohm and cursing at the blasted thing.
We love pictures, so I grabbed one from the manual to illustrate the issue:
Are your new lights just bulbs or are they a new unit? The reason I ask is there a relay built into them that is being inactived by your sled relay? Just asking questions to give you something to think about.
It's been awhile since I've looked at schematics and tried to understand them. However it looks like when the low beam is on (which is always) the green wire only powers one side of the each lightbulb. Then when the high beams are activated the relay powers the yellow wire, which make both filaments in each light come on. The green wire (low beam side) always has power. This would make sense and is supported by the fact that my helmet shield it wired into the green wire on the handlebars. I don't think the drawing is completely accurate as it doesn't show how the green wire gets it's power, but it is probably always passed through the switch.
Oyvind Ryeng
New member
Thanks for looking in, guys.
But, boy, is my face red.
Remember that little ol' blue gosh darn that there highbeam relay? As it turns out, it's contacts are not "NO" (Normally Open), as I assumed, but "NC" (Normally Closed). The lighting systems "default mode" is high beam (only) on. When actuating the light switch, the green wire is powered, firing the low beam filaments (only) and energizing the NC-contacts of the relay, thereby cutting power to the high beam filaments connected on the yellow wire. This means, among other things, a broken relay or switch will not cut all lights, but merely either the high beam or the low beam. Quite a smart system, really, once I finally figured out what makes it tick.
I guess I owe you some pictures of how it turned out, but it's really coming down now. The snow, I mean. I also have to aim the projectors properly, but even as it stands, the lights of a 2012 Pro RMK and and 2011 M6 looks like dim, orange-looking candles next to mine. The high beam range, made possible by the intense center hotspot is out of this world. I appear to have very usable light intensity at at least 402.3 metres (¼ imperial land mile). Oh, did I neglect to mention I'm running 55W ballasts and premium Phillips 85122+ bulbs? I believe I did, but I sure love my bright, white new lights.
But, boy, is my face red.
Remember that little ol' blue gosh darn that there highbeam relay? As it turns out, it's contacts are not "NO" (Normally Open), as I assumed, but "NC" (Normally Closed). The lighting systems "default mode" is high beam (only) on. When actuating the light switch, the green wire is powered, firing the low beam filaments (only) and energizing the NC-contacts of the relay, thereby cutting power to the high beam filaments connected on the yellow wire. This means, among other things, a broken relay or switch will not cut all lights, but merely either the high beam or the low beam. Quite a smart system, really, once I finally figured out what makes it tick.
I guess I owe you some pictures of how it turned out, but it's really coming down now. The snow, I mean. I also have to aim the projectors properly, but even as it stands, the lights of a 2012 Pro RMK and and 2011 M6 looks like dim, orange-looking candles next to mine. The high beam range, made possible by the intense center hotspot is out of this world. I appear to have very usable light intensity at at least 402.3 metres (¼ imperial land mile). Oh, did I neglect to mention I'm running 55W ballasts and premium Phillips 85122+ bulbs? I believe I did, but I sure love my bright, white new lights.
staggs65
Moderator
LOL, I'm glad you figured it out, and I got a good laugh reading your posts.
TJ500
Member
I do believe I have traced this out in the past.... the chunk of schematic you have attached has an error... See the schematic for a 2002 MM at the back of the owners manual, as this one is correct... Both high and low filaments are NOT on at the same time... I have confirmed this with my 02MM.... tj
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Oyvind Ryeng
New member
staggs65: I'm very happy that you like my writing, then again, I enjoy writing. But mostly in English (my second language) and only concerning technical topics; sleds, cars, fabrication and the like.
TJ500: I looked at the 2002 schematic, which I will call "conventional", in that the lights are powered by a 5-poled relay, switching high and low through the "exclusive OR" configuration found on almost all automotive-type relays such as the very common one from Bosch. I expected to find such a relay on my sled, but it was not to be. The 5-pole relay has plus and minus for the coil (#85 and #86), and a switching set of contacts with the common being #30. The NO contact is #87 and the NC contact is #87A.
But alas, this journey has come to an end. I have finally successfully comprehended the schematic for my lowly 2001; the NC relay will knock out the power to the high beams as the light switch energizes the low beam. Thanks for letting me vent/converse in the mean time. I find it to be illuminating (get it? Illuminating!) and leading to a more calm mental state, talking (holding a monologue (?)) about the issue at hand in this manner. Blessed be the Forums.
TJ500: I looked at the 2002 schematic, which I will call "conventional", in that the lights are powered by a 5-poled relay, switching high and low through the "exclusive OR" configuration found on almost all automotive-type relays such as the very common one from Bosch. I expected to find such a relay on my sled, but it was not to be. The 5-pole relay has plus and minus for the coil (#85 and #86), and a switching set of contacts with the common being #30. The NO contact is #87 and the NC contact is #87A.
But alas, this journey has come to an end. I have finally successfully comprehended the schematic for my lowly 2001; the NC relay will knock out the power to the high beams as the light switch energizes the low beam. Thanks for letting me vent/converse in the mean time. I find it to be illuminating (get it? Illuminating!) and leading to a more calm mental state, talking (holding a monologue (?)) about the issue at hand in this manner. Blessed be the Forums.
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TJ500
Member
Oyvind Ryeng said:
I now see they are using different relays for 01 MM and 02 MM... However, the schematic for the 01 MM shows the relay contacts as N.O. If the hi/low beams are to work correctly, the contacts must be N.C.... Yet they are depicted as N.O., which is incorrect... Glad you have it all figured out however... happy sledding... tj