After this miserable winter im looking to get more fun out of my sled next year. Iam interested in taking the 600 grass dragging. My question is what would be a good place to start with clutching. The races i will be attending will be a 500ft track. My current trail set up is 8DF wieghts 4.5g in both holes P-G-P primary, Green secondary at 60 and a 53/43 pioneer helix. Im curious about the set up labeled "racing" in the tech pages. 45/41 Helix, 8-bu w/2.4g in tip, pivot hole empty, g-w-g primary spring & silver secondary spring at 70 Degree twist, 20/40 gearing, jetting:142.5,142.5,145. whats your guys opinions on what kind of racing this would be good for? Any other grass racing tips and tricks would be apprieciated as well Thanks alot everyone 
Oh P.S. sled is bone stock minus some mild 
lol and im running a 1" hacksaw no traction aides if this helps any
Oh P.S. sled is bone stock minus some mild lol and im running a 1" hacksaw no traction aides if this helps anyaveragesleder
New member
You are going to need studs.
Grass racing
One thing to do is adjust your carb to get a lot more fuel in the low to mid range. Set your float a little higher { 1mm} , Increase you pilot a couple sizes, add an extra turn to your fuel screw, smaller size air jet. Cut back on your main jet. You are only going to hold it wide open for 5- 7 seconds so you need all the fuel you can get. I would go with a straight helix. No need for a multi angle helix. Backshift means nothing. Load up the tips. Set your suspension to keep the skis just barelly off the ground. Then alot of testing. Make 1 change at a time. Take notes. 8BU00 are a good drag weight for the 700 don't know much about the 600.
One thing to do is adjust your carb to get a lot more fuel in the low to mid range. Set your float a little higher { 1mm} , Increase you pilot a couple sizes, add an extra turn to your fuel screw, smaller size air jet. Cut back on your main jet. You are only going to hold it wide open for 5- 7 seconds so you need all the fuel you can get. I would go with a straight helix. No need for a multi angle helix. Backshift means nothing. Load up the tips. Set your suspension to keep the skis just barelly off the ground. Then alot of testing. Make 1 change at a time. Take notes. 8BU00 are a good drag weight for the 700 don't know much about the 600.
YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
RUN THE 8CA WEIGHTS. LITTLE BROTHER TO THE 8BU. NEED TO BE AROUND 48 GRAMS. USE A 48-40 CAM. GET A SILVER SPRING AT 70 TWIST. NOW I WOULD USE HAUCK BLUE OR A YAMAHA W-W-W SPRING FOR PRIMARY WITH TWO SHIMS. NEED ATLEAST A 5000 ENGAGEMENT. YOUR ALSO GONNA HAVE TO TEST THIS SLED FOR PEAK RPM AND PROBLEY MAKE A GEAR CHANGE. 600 SRX LIKE THE ALITTLE TALLER GEARING. ALSO CAN TAKE JETTING DOWN SOME. 600 SRX IS VERY FINICKY. LIKE TO HAVE A REAL WARM PIPE. 3:16 (yammie tony)
looks like you got some good info to get started, but without any studs your not going to go anywhere on grass, you need to run studs no way around it for grass racing. All these clutch set ups will do is make you spin the track even worse then now because they are more aggressive then stock.
Thanks everyone for the help quick question for ya yammiegod when you say 48-40 helix do you mean a multi angle 48/40 or a straight somewhere between 48 and 40(like per say the stock 45 that is taking up space in the spare parts pile)???? just want to make sure you guys have so much great info I dont want to misinterprit it
quick question for ya yammiegod when you say 48-40 helix do you mean a multi angle 48/40 or a straight somewhere between 48 and 40(like per say the stock 45 that is taking up space in the spare parts pile)???? just want to make sure you guys have so much great info I dont want to misinterprit itYAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
YES PROGRESSIVE MULTI ANGLE. I MYSELF WOULD NOT USE A STRAIT HELIX, BUT OTHERS HAVE SET-UPS THAT THEY HAVE WORKED FOR THEM. THATS WHY YOU MUST BE WILLING TO DO ALOT OF TESTING. THERE IS NOBODY OUT THERE THAT CAN GIVE YA A SET-UP AND YOUR SPOT ON. EVERY ENGINE, CONDITIONS, DRIVERS etc IS DIFFERENT. 3:16 (yammie tony)
Totally understand ya. Testing is the only way to get it right. Ive learned enough about clutching from everyone on here to be able to fine tune but I have no idea where to start. I want to use the fall grass drags as a chance to play with the clutching and learn more about what effects what thanks again everyone