I want to replace the nylon inserts on the primary clutch. I thought this would be cheap way of maintaining the clutch.
Well, I have spent $15.00 on the nylon inserts, $30.00 for a clutch removal tool and now I find out that I need a special tool to separate the clutch halves. I am $45.00 in the hole and have accomplished nothing.
How do I separate the clutch sheaves? Can I make a special tool, or do I have to go out and spend a small fortune on a special clutch tool?
Any help is appreciated.
Well, I have spent $15.00 on the nylon inserts, $30.00 for a clutch removal tool and now I find out that I need a special tool to separate the clutch halves. I am $45.00 in the hole and have accomplished nothing.
How do I separate the clutch sheaves? Can I make a special tool, or do I have to go out and spend a small fortune on a special clutch tool?
Any help is appreciated.
MountainMax
New member
it can be made, we made one last week, Yamaha wanted $900.00 canadian to get it, we borrowed one and got our welders and machinist's to make one up so it needs special tools. you can buy one cheap at like www.royaldistributing.com in canada.
Yamadogger
New member
I made one using a short length (6") of 4" sch 40 pipe. With the clutch removed from the sled and the primary cover off I set the pipe on top of the spider and marked where to notch the pipe to fit over the spider. I then used an acetylene torch to cut the three notches about 1" deep and cleaned them up with a grinder. After fine tuning the fit over the spider I welded a 3' piece of 1/4" x 3" flat stock centered on top of the pipe to act as a handle. I drilled 6 holes in the top of my bench and I bolted the clutch to the bench to hold it down and then used my homemade tool to remove the spider. Be careful though because the clutch is left hand threaded so you have to turn it the opposite direction to take it apart. If you want any pictures of my work of art (ha ha) let me know and I'll email them to you. If you have a welder it's really easy and can be done in about an hour.
Yamadogger
New member
I received a couple emails today requesting pictures so I'll try to get some this weekend and post them.
TJ500
Member
Yamadogger.....Sorry about the redundant email..... I PM'ed you so quickly that I didn't even finish reading the remaining posts...ie. (yours)...
Looking forward to seeing this tool and how it fits onto the spider...
This might just be a good one for the "TECH PAGE"??
TJ
Looking forward to seeing this tool and how it fits onto the spider...
This might just be a good one for the "TECH PAGE"??
TJ
black john
New member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2003
- Messages
- 24
clutch
i just used my comet grut tool and had a plate made with three pins in it at a welding shop and had them weld a pece of angle iron on the bottem so i could mount it in my shop vise when i need it
i just used my comet grut tool and had a plate made with three pins in it at a welding shop and had them weld a pece of angle iron on the bottem so i could mount it in my shop vise when i need it
I made one also, cost me about 30 bucks to build it. It helps to have a welder, the only machine shop work I had to have done was boring the 28mm hole in the spider tool. I pulled the clutch and used the demensions off the clutch for things like pin locations, spider size, etc. It's strong, I gave it the stress test when I had forgotten that the spider was left hand threaded 
Yamadogger
New member
Clutch Tool Pictures
I've got some pictures of my home made clutch tool now but I'm having trouble attaching them. They're in .jpg format and I can find nothing that helps in the FAQ section. When I try to preview or submit them it seems like it's going to work for a few seconds and then it starts loading the advertisements (http://ads.rx1....) at the top of the page and it never actually submits the post. Obviously doing something wrong but I'm not sure what. If someone can help me out I'll try to post them asap.
I've got some pictures of my home made clutch tool now but I'm having trouble attaching them. They're in .jpg format and I can find nothing that helps in the FAQ section. When I try to preview or submit them it seems like it's going to work for a few seconds and then it starts loading the advertisements (http://ads.rx1....) at the top of the page and it never actually submits the post. Obviously doing something wrong but I'm not sure what. If someone can help me out I'll try to post them asap.
TJ500
Member
Hey Yamadogger.... I just ran a couple of tests.... It worked fine for me from here....
This is what I did....I'm sure you did same, however....
scroll down to "OPTIONS" click "ADD ATTACHMENT"
beside "FILE NAME" click "CHOOSE FILE" select from hard drive
once file name is displayed, scroll to btm and click on "SUBMIT"
Worked fine twice.... I didn't try multiple images however....I think each photo must go with a new reply each time... Maybe the file size is too large... I know there are restrictions regarding this....Keep us posted...
there should be a test photo attached....
Good luck
TJ500
This is what I did....I'm sure you did same, however....
scroll down to "OPTIONS" click "ADD ATTACHMENT"
beside "FILE NAME" click "CHOOSE FILE" select from hard drive
once file name is displayed, scroll to btm and click on "SUBMIT"
Worked fine twice.... I didn't try multiple images however....I think each photo must go with a new reply each time... Maybe the file size is too large... I know there are restrictions regarding this....Keep us posted...
there should be a test photo attached....
Good luck
TJ500
Yamadogger
New member
Here's The Clutch Tool Pictures
Good thing my wife's good with computers - she had to do some fancy crap to get the picture files down to a manageable size for them to work correctly. At any rate, here are the pictures of my home made clutch tool. I made it in my garage for about $10. Reference my initial response for aditional info. I'll try to offer further explanation with the pics.
Pic 1 & 2 shows the bottom of the tool. The notches fit over the clutch spider.
Pic 3 shows the clutch spider.
Pic 4 & 5 show the tool on the clutch spider. In these shots the clutch is bolted to my bench. The bench top is just 1/2" plywood - it doesn't need to be all that substantial.
Note- I can only get 5 pics per post so I'll post #6 & #7 on the next post.
Pic 6 shows the back side of the clutch with 6 bolts threaded into it. I only screwed them in to show the holes I was referring to. I can't remember exactly, but I believe they're 8 mm fine thread (1.25 pitch I believe). I drilled 6 holes in my bench to match this pattern. To mark, I simply placed a sheet of paper on the back side of the clutch and rubbed it with a pencil to mark the hole layout. I then put the paper on my bench and used it as a pattern. I drilled the holes a little oversize to make it easier to start the bolts from the underside of the bench. Caution - make sure when you tighten the bolts that they're not too long or else you will bottom them out and break out the inside clutch face (not that I'm speaking from experience). They don't need to be very tight to hold the clutch, finger tight is fine.
Pic 7 shows a top view of the tool. Initially I welded an old 1/2 " socket to a chunk of plate steel and then welded that to the top of the 4" pipe thinking I could just use a breaker bar to loosen the spider and a torque wrench to tighten it. I found you really need more leverage to get the clutch apart and it works best to have a "T" handle of sorts to distribute the load evenly and prevent breaking every one of your knuckles. Rather than scrap the whole thing I just burned a hole in the center of a 3" x 1/4" x 3' piece of flat stock and welded that on top thinking I would still want to use the 1/2" socket at some point. If I were to make another one I would eliminate the socket and flat bar in lieu of a simple round 1" pipe just welded across the 4" pipe. Reason being, when you go to tighten everything back up you'll find you don't actually need to torque it. If you scribe two lines on the edge of each sheave directly across from one another then just line them up when you tighten it back up and you're good to go (assuming it was torqued correctly initially).
If anyone has any specific questions, PM me and I'll try to answer them. I know it's not pretty but it's worked flawlessly on 3 clutches so far.
Good thing my wife's good with computers - she had to do some fancy crap to get the picture files down to a manageable size for them to work correctly. At any rate, here are the pictures of my home made clutch tool. I made it in my garage for about $10. Reference my initial response for aditional info. I'll try to offer further explanation with the pics.
Pic 1 & 2 shows the bottom of the tool. The notches fit over the clutch spider.
Pic 3 shows the clutch spider.
Pic 4 & 5 show the tool on the clutch spider. In these shots the clutch is bolted to my bench. The bench top is just 1/2" plywood - it doesn't need to be all that substantial.
Note- I can only get 5 pics per post so I'll post #6 & #7 on the next post.
Pic 6 shows the back side of the clutch with 6 bolts threaded into it. I only screwed them in to show the holes I was referring to. I can't remember exactly, but I believe they're 8 mm fine thread (1.25 pitch I believe). I drilled 6 holes in my bench to match this pattern. To mark, I simply placed a sheet of paper on the back side of the clutch and rubbed it with a pencil to mark the hole layout. I then put the paper on my bench and used it as a pattern. I drilled the holes a little oversize to make it easier to start the bolts from the underside of the bench. Caution - make sure when you tighten the bolts that they're not too long or else you will bottom them out and break out the inside clutch face (not that I'm speaking from experience). They don't need to be very tight to hold the clutch, finger tight is fine.
Pic 7 shows a top view of the tool. Initially I welded an old 1/2 " socket to a chunk of plate steel and then welded that to the top of the 4" pipe thinking I could just use a breaker bar to loosen the spider and a torque wrench to tighten it. I found you really need more leverage to get the clutch apart and it works best to have a "T" handle of sorts to distribute the load evenly and prevent breaking every one of your knuckles. Rather than scrap the whole thing I just burned a hole in the center of a 3" x 1/4" x 3' piece of flat stock and welded that on top thinking I would still want to use the 1/2" socket at some point. If I were to make another one I would eliminate the socket and flat bar in lieu of a simple round 1" pipe just welded across the 4" pipe. Reason being, when you go to tighten everything back up you'll find you don't actually need to torque it. If you scribe two lines on the edge of each sheave directly across from one another then just line them up when you tighten it back up and you're good to go (assuming it was torqued correctly initially).
If anyone has any specific questions, PM me and I'll try to answer them. I know it's not pretty but it's worked flawlessly on 3 clutches so far.
Yamadogger
New member
Pics #6 & #7...
Here's the other 2 pics.
Here's the other 2 pics.
TJ500
Member
Thanks again.... Perfect photos....
TJ500
TJ500
MountainMax
New member
hey,nice design, but where do you put your torque wrench? in the middle?? they torque spec for this tool in the service manual is at the end of the stock arm, about 2 feet out so you wouldn't be able to get an acurate spec unless you welded a nut at the same length out on you arm from the center of the clutch as the stock one, I can get you this spec if you want it, just weld a nut on it and you can torque it to the stock spec to make it acurate every time.