Here's The Clutch Tool Pictures
Good thing my wife's good with computers - she had to do some fancy crap to get the picture files down to a manageable size for them to work correctly. At any rate, here are the pictures of my home made clutch tool. I made it in my garage for about $10. Reference my initial response for aditional info. I'll try to offer further explanation with the pics.
Pic 1 & 2 shows the bottom of the tool. The notches fit over the clutch spider.
Pic 3 shows the clutch spider.
Pic 4 & 5 show the tool on the clutch spider. In these shots the clutch is bolted to my bench. The bench top is just 1/2" plywood - it doesn't need to be all that substantial.
Note- I can only get 5 pics per post so I'll post #6 & #7 on the next post.
Pic 6 shows the back side of the clutch with 6 bolts threaded into it. I only screwed them in to show the holes I was referring to. I can't remember exactly, but I believe they're 8 mm fine thread (1.25 pitch I believe). I drilled 6 holes in my bench to match this pattern. To mark, I simply placed a sheet of paper on the back side of the clutch and rubbed it with a pencil to mark the hole layout. I then put the paper on my bench and used it as a pattern. I drilled the holes a little oversize to make it easier to start the bolts from the underside of the bench. Caution - make sure when you tighten the bolts that they're not too long or else you will bottom them out and break out the inside clutch face (not that I'm speaking from experience). They don't need to be very tight to hold the clutch, finger tight is fine.
Pic 7 shows a top view of the tool. Initially I welded an old 1/2 " socket to a chunk of plate steel and then welded that to the top of the 4" pipe thinking I could just use a breaker bar to loosen the spider and a torque wrench to tighten it. I found you really need more leverage to get the clutch apart and it works best to have a "T" handle of sorts to distribute the load evenly and prevent breaking every one of your knuckles. Rather than scrap the whole thing I just burned a hole in the center of a 3" x 1/4" x 3' piece of flat stock and welded that on top thinking I would still want to use the 1/2" socket at some point. If I were to make another one I would eliminate the socket and flat bar in lieu of a simple round 1" pipe just welded across the 4" pipe. Reason being, when you go to tighten everything back up you'll find you don't actually need to torque it. If you scribe two lines on the edge of each sheave directly across from one another then just line them up when you tighten it back up and you're good to go (assuming it was torqued correctly initially).
If anyone has any specific questions, PM me and I'll try to answer them. I know it's not pretty but it's worked flawlessly on 3 clutches so far.
