How in the heck do you remove the sway bar or stabilizer bar, whatever its called, on an 02 viper?
fastest way out is to remove the bolts at the trailing arms and cut the sway bar on one side and drag it through the bulkhead. takes full commitment to not wanting it.
next option is to pull the engine, drill the rivets out that hold the brackets to the bulkhead, remove the plastic giswads and work the swaybar out. there can be some plastic body parts that inhibit access to the rivets but its not that bad. i make block off plates to keep the snow from entering after removal.
last option, if you just want to test the ride without the bar, unbolt one side, wire or zip tie it up and test.
next option is to pull the engine, drill the rivets out that hold the brackets to the bulkhead, remove the plastic giswads and work the swaybar out. there can be some plastic body parts that inhibit access to the rivets but its not that bad. i make block off plates to keep the snow from entering after removal.
last option, if you just want to test the ride without the bar, unbolt one side, wire or zip tie it up and test.
viperking
Active member
Why would you pull the engine? pulling the engine won't give any better access to the sway bar. If you want to keep it just drill the brackets off that are on the ends, remove the link part on one end and slide it out of the bulkhead. Pulling the engine would not help you here and it can be removed without removing the bellypans as well.
Aahhhh well that makes complete sense why they make little silly things so difficult. lol I know its just drilling out rivets but its extra work i dont want to deal with lol. I dont mind having sway bars but i was thinking of lifting the front end of my viper and instead of getting different sway bars coul i just get a longer connecter piece?
devinzz1
Active member
If you do get it out intact you can cut ends off. Thread the ends and what not.. so you can take the sway bar off and on easily... you get what im gettin at? Having trouble getting what im thinking in text...
engine removal to access the backside of the rivets unreachable due to the plastics so a plate can be installed to keep snow and whatever from entering.
i have a tendency to go above and beyond basics. as you will see, the plastics are put on after the swaybar. to each there own.
i have a tendency to go above and beyond basics. as you will see, the plastics are put on after the swaybar. to each there own.
Devilin AblueDress!
New member
tait89 said:
YES...depending on how much you raise it you may not need to lengthen it though.
devinzz1 said:
thats easy enough to understand. cut one side and make it kinda like the radius rods so you can just unscrew one side and slide it out.
i'm not sure how much i want to raise it. its an idea i'm just kind of playing with.
snoprokidf6
Member
not to rob your thread, but have any "rough" trail aggressive riders found any pro's to removing the viper. do you like the handling better than before? I have mine out and was on the fence so i threw it back in before snow came. I like how my sled rails corners on flat trails, just hate how it rides in super rough trails (3+ moguls tug hill is known for). it pitches the sled to one side when you hit a roller the wrong way. any comments?
sleddineinar
VIP Member
You could remove the rivets with an air chisel, from the outside. Then replace them by prying the plastic side out of the way.
07apexrider
New member
Sway Bar Removal
i HAVE REMOVED THE SWAY BAR FROM MY SRX AFTER EXTENSIVE SUSPENSION UP GRADES. IT GOES THROUGH BUMPS MUCH BETTER, YOU LOOSE A LITTLE IN CORNERING SINCE THERE IS SOME ROLL AT HIGH SPEED BUT FOR ROUGH AND BUMPS ITS WORTH IT. OVERALL YOUR FRONT END WILL BE SOFTER BUT YOU CAN PLAY WITH SHOCK SET UP TO GET A GREAT RIDE AND OK CORNERING. I WOULD TRADE FLAT CORNERING FOR THE FRONT SHOCKS TO REACT INDEPENDENTLY TO BUMPS ANY DAY, THE TRAILS IN NY ARE NEVER PAVEMENT SMOOTH WHERE HIGH SPEED FLAT CORNERING IS A MUST. TAKE THEM OFF AND THROUGH THEM IN THE DUMPSTER, ADJUST YOUR SHOCKS, YOU WILL LOOSE SOME WEIGHT AND GET A BETTER RIDE
i HAVE REMOVED THE SWAY BAR FROM MY SRX AFTER EXTENSIVE SUSPENSION UP GRADES. IT GOES THROUGH BUMPS MUCH BETTER, YOU LOOSE A LITTLE IN CORNERING SINCE THERE IS SOME ROLL AT HIGH SPEED BUT FOR ROUGH AND BUMPS ITS WORTH IT. OVERALL YOUR FRONT END WILL BE SOFTER BUT YOU CAN PLAY WITH SHOCK SET UP TO GET A GREAT RIDE AND OK CORNERING. I WOULD TRADE FLAT CORNERING FOR THE FRONT SHOCKS TO REACT INDEPENDENTLY TO BUMPS ANY DAY, THE TRAILS IN NY ARE NEVER PAVEMENT SMOOTH WHERE HIGH SPEED FLAT CORNERING IS A MUST. TAKE THEM OFF AND THROUGH THEM IN THE DUMPSTER, ADJUST YOUR SHOCKS, YOU WILL LOOSE SOME WEIGHT AND GET A BETTER RIDE