Decided to pack my own bearings instead of buying new bearings/idler wheels for my SRX. Took them apart and could not get the retainer out. Any idea how? Anyway, some of the wheels were hard to spin so cleaned the bearings all out and repacked them with fresh grease. How do I know that they are still okay? Without taking the retainers out, I could not check the races for pits, etc. Please help.
Not sure what do you mean by retainers...if you are referring to the big snap rings that are around the outer edge of bearing that hold them in the wheel then you need snap ring pliers. Canadian tire sells snap ring plier sets as does Royal.
In my opinion repacking old bearings on these wheels is a short term fix for rusted/worn out bearings that need to be replaced...LOL...trust me I've been there!
Again Royal sells bearings in sets that aren't too expensive.
In my opinion repacking old bearings on these wheels is a short term fix for rusted/worn out bearings that need to be replaced...LOL...trust me I've been there!
Again Royal sells bearings in sets that aren't too expensive.
The retainer is the cages that hold each individual ball bearing in the races.
Don't know how to get the bearings appart without ruining them...
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
why would you try and remove retainer and damage the bearing..what purpose??..packing is good for a little while...I have all new NTN Blue seal bearing in both sleds all new last fall.The price on these are actually going up.I usually buy from Royal Dist.....but trying to find them locally for cheaper.They are made in Japan and specified for snowmobiles.The cheaper bearings just don't last as long.
The bearings that were there from the factory were made in Romania. I just cleaned them and packed them full of snowmobile grease. They are fine now. Local Yamaha Dealership wanted $26.00 for a new snowmobile bearing, hence why I decided to pack and reuse them.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
the average price for NTN Blue seal bearings from Royal is anywhere from $6 to $9 depending on size. $26 sounds a little excessive to me...What are the dealers thinking anyways.I have not bought a thing from my local Yamaha dealers for some 3 years now.Can get everything cheaper elsewhere...
Dont remove the retainer you will destroy the bearing. If its spinning smoothly and not wobbly you can use a grease needle under the seal to inject grease. Or carefully remove the seal with a pick/small screwdriver. Dont put too much grease or the seals will pop out.
I do this every yr on my sled, 15000km and still running original bearings. My buddys sxr has 32000km and changed only one bearing so far. Of course if bearing is bad replace it. If in doubt its better to replace.
I do this every yr on my sled, 15000km and still running original bearings. My buddys sxr has 32000km and changed only one bearing so far. Of course if bearing is bad replace it. If in doubt its better to replace.
$26 is right around the price I got from a local automotive parts store
Better to order from Royal or else where
Better to order from Royal or else where
my snowmobile dealer gets me new idler wheel bearings for $10 a peice and he put em in?
$30 for brand new with bearings.i used blue colored ,kimpex i believe ,meant for skidoo but only 1mm bigger,works like a charm,but youll need your old shims.go cheap now and not get new when the wheel blows off and you wad your track into the front heat exchanger it wasnt worth it.
Rustman
New member
Geez, I pay about $1.50 a bearing for idler wheels. At that price it's cheaper than a tube of grease. I get them off ebay and they give free shipping.
A couple of bucks
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bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
got to watch out for them cheap bearings made from China.I tried one of them as a test from our auto/farm store.I think it lasted for about one ride,changed it out very quick.Had it the rear wheel on the outside left so I could take that wheel off quick to do so.I use premium NTN blue seal bearings for everything except the 6 idlers.The ones for the idlers I can change every year because the cost is down on them,usually get them in 10 packs at lower price.
SRX_700 said:
About the only way I'm aware of to check condition is to feel for grinding/grittyness when turning by hand after you've washed them. Repacking doesn't require removal of the cages/ball retainer.
Take a wad of grease in the palm of one hand and push the edge of the bearing into the grease until you see fresh grease pushed through cages.
snomofo said:
Agreed 1000%! Thats how I do it to snomofo if it "feels" loose or "not right" I usually replace.
Also as others have said, if you try to remove the "cage" (or "retainer") that holds the b-bearings equally spaced you will destroy the bearing assembly. I usually wash bearings out in Mineral spirits and dab dry with a clean shop rag or lintless paper towel then blow dry. DO NOT allow the bearing to spin using compresssed air while drying the "inners" of the bearing assembly as you can damage the bearing from lack of lubrication. If you spin the bearing(rotate by hand) after cleaning and the bearing has a light chattery feel and is not smooth I would replace as the bearing would be suspect and very possibly not last long(you can also add a couple of drops of oil to see if the slightly rough sensation goes away to verify that the bearing is useable), also the same goes for any side play in the bearing.
sleddineinar
VIP Member
Snomofo & Sxr700Bandit do it just like I do.