what could be wrong?

SRX500kid

SRX500kid

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Joined
Aug 4, 2011
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712
Age
28
Location
Gansvoort, NY
on my sxr500 i notised that it did not have the get up and go like it used to. i have had the sled for 2 years now and i have to hold it to the bar for the power band to kick in. i have not messed with any thing, don't have a clue how to work on clutches. do you guys think i need a new belt or what? the power band used to kick in around 5500 to 6000 rpm now it is kicking in around 7000 to 7500.
any thing will be help full!!! :-| :?:
 
read and you will learn.If you ride a sled,you better start learning about clutch's.You have all summer to take things a part and fix or replace.Lots to read about it on TY..good luck kid...
 
SRX500kid said:
do you guys think i need a new belt or what?
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Measure the width and then compare to a brand spankin new one. There's a good chance that your present belt is somewhere around 1/16~1/8 narrower than a new one. Probably a hooch longer too.
I have put new belt on that made a 'bog' disappear. Thought it was a carb problem and it definately was not. It was the belt.
 
Do you have a spare? If no you prolly should have ordered one already. Keep the one you got as the "get me back home" belt. While you have belt give the clutch surfaces a good scrubbing and lube all moving parts.
 
sounds like a broken/worn out primary spring. happened to my brother on the sx500r that i sold him. it behaved exactly that way when it was broken. make shure you check the bushings in the weights and rollers as they are probably worn.

as to the vmaxjhon set up. it is pretty simple. i did the one i had with same set-up using aftermarket weights so it was easyer to adjust. you could get a set of supertips from ulmer with a 40 gram base weight and the rollers. the dalton helix can usually be ordered by your dealer as can the springs and shims for them. turk (missing you dude) and vmaxjhon where the guys that did all the testing for this set-up. heck you probably could call ulmer and he could ship it all to you as a kit.
 
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i will look at the belt i have a get me home one it looks pretty beat i guess. i will look at the spring to. what should i do to lube/clean the clutches?
 
TRy the aaen clutch handbook the first time you read it your should learn something if not read it again its in the tech section.
 
what about i just order a new belt and a new primary spring? the spring on it is black with a blue and red marking on it. any particular spring i could get to get a little more acceleration? with some good top end? (it is a 500 i need to have some speed to keep up) or dose any one have a kit or tell me exactly what to get????? :bash:
 
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order the stock spring. untill you are willing to replace the weights and helix it will get you running again.

i went all through this when i clutched and geared the 2001 sx500r i had. after the gearing it would get 90+ mph and 10-12 mpg on crusing. the clutching made it so you could only run away from me on the lake/long straights. in the twistys, i would be pushing/keeping the leader honest as it would straighten your arms when you punched it coming out of the corners.
 
if some one can tell me the part numbers in the yamaha fiche i will go with vmaxjohns set up, but right now i have not a clue what to get. also what is the code for a new primary spring?
thanks,
shane
 
call allen ulmer. he will be able to set you up with all the parts you need for that clutch set-up. he will even load the weights for you. i think you will need rollers for the primary as well as the 2000+ sx500r used the 15.6mm rollers vs 15mm.

here is what i suggest you call allen ulmer and order:
-40 gram base weight super tips loaded 2.4g heel and 2.4g tip
-15mm rollers part # 8CR-1724-10
-3 engagement shims part #90202-483P9-00
-white-pink-white primary spring part # 90501-583L5-00
-47/41 dalton helix (or equvilent)

your secondary spring should be fine still.

it will not act the same on the stand as it does on snow, so all you can test on the stand is the engagement rpm. the grams of weight might need to be adjusted for proper rpms whitch is why i suggested the aftermarket weights as they are bolts with washers locktighted in vs rivits that you need to drill out.

pretty much any 40gram base weight should work if weighted the same with all of the above parts.
 
how much would that all be? round about figure?
thanks
shane
p.s should i replace the bushings? if so which ones?
 
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weights should come with new bushings. i would suggest new roller bushings and washers. probably looking at $550-600.00 total based on the last few kits i bought and from what i remeber that is about what it cost me for the parts when i did mine.
 
what about if i get the spring, new belt and 15mm rollers. would that work good or just get spring and a belt. (the spring is wh-p-wh) right?
p.s should i run the stock yamaha belt?
 
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SRX500kid said:
should i run the stock yamaha belt?
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Always. Yamaha belts are A#1 . Have you ever tried to F with a belt that has grenaded out on the trail. Has wrapped itself around everything. And you might have forgotten your pocket knife on that particular ride. The cords from that aftermarket belt are wrapped around, in and behind the primary & secondary. Don't even think about a non-OEM belt.
 
SRX500kid said:
holy shit!!!!! should i just go with benders racing set up???
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benders probably costs just as much.

still runs stock belt.

if money is an issue, i would just get a new belt and a new stock primary spring. the stock weights on the sled cannot be weighted enough to acheive the proper results as the weights vmaxjhon used are 41gram base weight and he added 2.4g to each hole. stock weights only weigh 37.7g and i do not think they make rivits heavy enough to get the weight up to match the 8ab's loaded whitch would be 45.8g per weight. 7 grams is a lot of weight to put in.
 
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