Well I found a decent 151 track and I AM wondering if anyone has tried just moving there 144 mountain viper skid back a couple inches to fit a 151 track?
Could you tell me if I will run into any problems doing this?
THe way I see it I will gain a little track and a better approach angle. All at the same time looseing a little power of course because of the extra weight of the longer track.
ANything you guys can tell me would be great thanks.
MJM
Could you tell me if I will run into any problems doing this?
THe way I see it I will gain a little track and a better approach angle. All at the same time looseing a little power of course because of the extra weight of the longer track.
ANything you guys can tell me would be great thanks.
MJM
go for it, it can be a simple procedure. you will find that depending on which 151 you choose it will actually be lighter than the 144 in most cases. move the skid in the tunnel or move the hardware on the rails, or both.
i have done just about every configuration of relocates with minimal negative affects(usually just a fine tune on adjustments). my test sled has a tunnel resembling swiss cheese. lighter that way perhaps.
are you starting with a 121 converted to 144, or the mtn vipe already at 144? couple different tricks if using the stock skid.
i have done just about every configuration of relocates with minimal negative affects(usually just a fine tune on adjustments). my test sled has a tunnel resembling swiss cheese. lighter that way perhaps.
are you starting with a 121 converted to 144, or the mtn vipe already at 144? couple different tricks if using the stock skid.
MOuntain viper 144. ANd the track is off of a polaris rmk 151.
in that case, move your skid back 3 1/2". typically i wont relocate the front mounting plates, i prefer to make backers from .100 or .125 aluminum plates, choice is yours. i also make my own rear drops from .187 or .250 plate as you will need a bit more length in the material due to the taper on the tunnel. the stock drops dont seem to grab enough tunnel.
i make my front plates about 2" x 1", the rears 3" x 9". i move the front down about 5/8" and 3/4" or more on the rears. i give myself optional holes on the rear mounts similar in spacing to the oem, about 3/4" up and down from the already adjusted drop.
i will either use aircraft style buck rivets or 1/4" button head allens with whizlock nuts for the bracketry attachments.
others may disagree with the setback theory, let them. i have gone as far as 121 to 141 and even 116 to 136 without issues. mountain ridden sleds, every winter.
in your case, extending the tunnel is borderline. you will experience an occasional snow flap suck up in to the track. up to you if you want to extend. some creative bends on the existing flap bracket reduces the issue.
i make my front plates about 2" x 1", the rears 3" x 9". i move the front down about 5/8" and 3/4" or more on the rears. i give myself optional holes on the rear mounts similar in spacing to the oem, about 3/4" up and down from the already adjusted drop.
i will either use aircraft style buck rivets or 1/4" button head allens with whizlock nuts for the bracketry attachments.
others may disagree with the setback theory, let them. i have gone as far as 121 to 141 and even 116 to 136 without issues. mountain ridden sleds, every winter.
in your case, extending the tunnel is borderline. you will experience an occasional snow flap suck up in to the track. up to you if you want to extend. some creative bends on the existing flap bracket reduces the issue.
Ok cool thank you for the measurements do you happen to have any pictures of the drop brackets and the front backers? also where do you get the aircraft style buck ritets?
i have a buddy in the business of aviation repair. for me its a call and pick them up, along with borrowing the associated rivet gun. aircraft tool supply would be a good source for purchase, the riveters are spendy, rivets are cheap.
no pics of the drops at this time, but i can take some of a few variations, one on a polaris and one on an older phazer. pm me your email address i will click a few phone pics.
no pics of the drops at this time, but i can take some of a few variations, one on a polaris and one on an older phazer. pm me your email address i will click a few phone pics.
I have the rivet gun already just need the rivets maybe ill look them up online.
Pm sent
Pm sent
Not the correct way to do that. Your ski pressure is gonna go up alot. Can you say front heavy, nose diving pig? Not only that, your gonna have a huge problem with stabbing your track, not fun. Why not just buy rail extensions?
Every skid out there has certain measurements where to be mounted, when you start changing them, it does make things worse. I know.
Just my opinion
Every skid out there has certain measurements where to be mounted, when you start changing them, it does make things worse. I know.
Just my opinion
interesting opinion. personal experience?
done properly, track stabbing was never an issue if addressed properly and in my opinion has only become an issue since the introduction of the 3" pitch tall lug tracks, and the aftermarkets already covered with anti-stab kits. other makes and models even with there own stock skids were having issues. yamaha saw it when they went to the 3" pitch tracks as well. rarely heard of on 2.52, occasionally on the 2.86's, but extremely rare.
seems a bit odd that several aftermarket companies will sell you re-locate templates and hardware to do exactly the same thing, skid back and down.
ski pressure has never been an issue with the several i have done, usually the lack of ski pressure. correctly dropping the skid proportionately is the key. as with most things, a little goes a long way.
sure, if you just jack up the back end you will achieve massive ski pressure. you need to consider the skid as a teeter totter of sorts with three pressure points. skis, front of skid and rear of skid. back and down on the skid can actually lighten the front, and usually does. trail manners are of no concern to most off trail riders, but you can still achieve a well behaved sled, thats why there are several adjustment points to play with.
you are correct that every skid has certain mount points to make them work properly. funny part about the skids is if mounted within their geometrical parameters, they dont seem to know or care where they are mounted in relation to the driveshaft, as long as the geometry is correct.
done properly, track stabbing was never an issue if addressed properly and in my opinion has only become an issue since the introduction of the 3" pitch tall lug tracks, and the aftermarkets already covered with anti-stab kits. other makes and models even with there own stock skids were having issues. yamaha saw it when they went to the 3" pitch tracks as well. rarely heard of on 2.52, occasionally on the 2.86's, but extremely rare.
seems a bit odd that several aftermarket companies will sell you re-locate templates and hardware to do exactly the same thing, skid back and down.
ski pressure has never been an issue with the several i have done, usually the lack of ski pressure. correctly dropping the skid proportionately is the key. as with most things, a little goes a long way.
sure, if you just jack up the back end you will achieve massive ski pressure. you need to consider the skid as a teeter totter of sorts with three pressure points. skis, front of skid and rear of skid. back and down on the skid can actually lighten the front, and usually does. trail manners are of no concern to most off trail riders, but you can still achieve a well behaved sled, thats why there are several adjustment points to play with.
you are correct that every skid has certain mount points to make them work properly. funny part about the skids is if mounted within their geometrical parameters, they dont seem to know or care where they are mounted in relation to the driveshaft, as long as the geometry is correct.
Any advice on how to measure to get the correct mounting points? Particularly the rear mounting point?
ALso you told me to go 3.5" back and also what is the benefit from going 5/8" down in front at 3/4"in the rears?
ALso you told me to go 3.5" back and also what is the benefit from going 5/8" down in front at 3/4"in the rears?
the "down" portion on the measures lets the skid out of the tunnel in a proportionate manner to reduce or eliminate a heavy front end. but a little goes a long way, depending on what you want to achieve as an end result.
its been my experience that when ever you extend any sled, things that move back must move down incrementally. best example is to compare with what yamaha figured out on the 97-99 mtn maxes with the 136's vs the 141 geometry on the 00's and up. too bad they never addressed the steep angle at the rear.
by letting the skid out a bit, you will reduce ski pressure, based on the teeter-totter theory mentioned previously, along with adding a bit more tunnel to track clearance, which is important. more on that if needed.
as for locating things correctly, i always make a template. i have access to some very rigid cardboard strips that i lay out accordingly with the measures. once you have the center to center distance laid out on your template, its a matter of temp bolting the template to the new front mount holes and marking the rest of the holes from there off the template. you could easily substitute wood, plastic, aluminum or steel for your template, i just happen to have free access to the cardboard strips. start with small holes(1/4 or 5/16) to "pin" your template. you will find less movement and deviation from the measures using a smaller pivot. once you have it all marked out, simply increase the drill size to accomodate the bolts. look for either a 13/32 or 25/64, unless you have access to metric bits.
its been my experience that when ever you extend any sled, things that move back must move down incrementally. best example is to compare with what yamaha figured out on the 97-99 mtn maxes with the 136's vs the 141 geometry on the 00's and up. too bad they never addressed the steep angle at the rear.
by letting the skid out a bit, you will reduce ski pressure, based on the teeter-totter theory mentioned previously, along with adding a bit more tunnel to track clearance, which is important. more on that if needed.
as for locating things correctly, i always make a template. i have access to some very rigid cardboard strips that i lay out accordingly with the measures. once you have the center to center distance laid out on your template, its a matter of temp bolting the template to the new front mount holes and marking the rest of the holes from there off the template. you could easily substitute wood, plastic, aluminum or steel for your template, i just happen to have free access to the cardboard strips. start with small holes(1/4 or 5/16) to "pin" your template. you will find less movement and deviation from the measures using a smaller pivot. once you have it all marked out, simply increase the drill size to accomodate the bolts. look for either a 13/32 or 25/64, unless you have access to metric bits.
Did the extension today and the mounting points lined up perfect thank you very much. Now I get to wait a few months
I extended my 121 to 128 last season. Wow what a differance. That sled is so much more comfortable to ride and fun! Sno Dad has great advice. Open your mind to new ideas. Anyway. Have fun and ride safe. Al
Ya i rode it once worked great. May have to buy some extros tho.