Bad fuel milage

OldIron

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Nov 13, 2010
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377
Age
54
Location
NorCal
Ok I've got three mountain vipers. Two are 04s and one is an 05. The 05 comes back on the low fuel light every time out after 60 to 70 miles. When I refuel all the sleds before putting them away the 05 usually takes about 3.5 to 4 more gallons then the other two in order to top them off. I've monitored this very closely and kept records. They are all jetted the same way and I always clean the carbs and power vales each year. Plug checks, wash, compression and leak down are all very close to each other. All of them are stock with the exception that one 04 has an aftermarket can and the 05 has an aftermarket can. They all have opticool head gaskets. The 05 is electric start no reverse. All clutched the same way....stock mtn setup. The 05 is slightly slower then the others but not that much and it's holding the same tach numbers.... 8200 rpm off the line ...... which works it's way up to 8450 ish. I've also checked and readjusted the track on all of them to the same book specs multiple times just to make sure. I forgot to mention that the clutches are all aligned and offsets checked to be within specs. All machines have SRX torque limiters.

This was happening at the end of last season. And I was wondering if bad drive line bearings could cause this? Not sure how to check this either?

I have not verified the gearing (purchased used) but I have a feeling it will be stock also since it looks like the last owner left almost everything stock except the can.

Any ideas are welcomed and appreciated.
 
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Some Ideas:

-check/replace jackshaft/driveshaft bearings
-replace spark plug caps
-check carb float levels/needle + seats/syncronization/float adjustment
-carb vents...shud be vented in airbox and no leaks or plugged/cracked lines...[I think this may be the problem as the sled would run way rich with vents OUT of airbox]
-check for damage/upgrade/replace reeds with carbon tech reeds or my personal fav Boysen rage cages
-check compression
-replace stator
-swap/replace CDI
-check crank for proper phazing

Just some ideas that I initially thought of

Lets us Know if you find anything...

Bob
 
I have had my choke stick in the 1/2 position on my SRX in the past! Inspect for obvious abnormalities before pursuing expensive unneeded repairs! Plug caps and all drive bearings must be inspected or replaced. Power valves clean and adjusted?
 
I appreciate all the ideas. All of these gives me some angles on figuring this one out.

I'm sure the clutching is exactly the same as the others since I had them opened up last season.

The slush box looked like the other ones. Maybe just a little residue in the bottom but pretty much dry for the most part.

SSB I will check those carb vents. Thanks for that idea.

I have already done compression checks, leak down test and looked at the wash. Those items are good along with the carb setup. I go thru them each year.

I'm going to work from simple up to expensive. Thanks again, for all the great ideas. I just need to sit down now and figure out the my order to some of these checks.
 


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