Modding the VMAX 700 redhead

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Vmaxin

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Alrighty, so last november i bought my first sled. It was a 2000 yamaha vmax 700. It has been an awesome sled thus far, but i am looking for a bit more out of it. I have done a fair amount of research and am going to go ahead and peel the head gasket from 3 to 2 layers ( or do some people even do 1 and just run premium all the time?), the reed valve stopper notching and bore out the can. Also because my air box was cracked i was thinking of running pod style intakes and just fabbing up a bracket to hold my CDI box and ignition coils, has anyone really done this before? Wanting to upgrade to a 3in bar riser (make her a little easier to throw around). possibly go to a triple pipe setup if i can find a set. So far i have not messed around with clutching other that cleaning them, are there any setups that would be good for a basic mod list like this? My basic goal is to beat my friends daddy bought 2013 mxz 600... i dont think it should be that hard because i was dead even with me friends 2012 switchback 600 pro r last year and it was completely stock other than the jetting modifications i did to get it running properly (set too lean) is there any other insite you guys can give me? track wise i am on a 121x1.25.15 have not touched the limiter and the suspension is set very soft front and rear because it was trail ridden lightly before. thanks guys
 

your probably better off sticking with the airbox. jetting is more consistent than with the pod filters on a trail sled. The rest of your mods sound good, you can check the tech pages for clutch set-ups or do a search here.
 
Have Raced Four Of Them. Best Motor Yamaha Ever Made, Right Now Were Running Three On The Asphalt. Ok, That Head Mod Works Great. Will Add Compression. Becareful If Ya Go To 1 Because Of Iffy Fuel. Have Somebody Cut Back Your Transfer Ports. Your Also Can Add Reed Spacers. Triple Pipes Work Great, Do Not Get Rid Of Your Airbox. Clutching Must Be Spot On, Sled Will Fly. 3:16 (yammie Tony)
 
I have two 99 SXs that have been massaged and are VERY STRONG runners.
Here's my .02c. [These are all without going to tripple pipes and porting]

Intake:

-Stick with stock airbox...it pulls all its air from just behind the windshield so it is a true "Cold Air Intake" In the tech pages it shows how to open up the top for more air...I recommend this.

Engine:

-reed spacers...an absolute must do.

-stock reed cages with carbon tech reeds

-go to a two layer head gasket...fuel is too iffy to risk going to one layer

Exhaust:

-drill out stock canister

Track/Suspension:

- a 1" or 1 1/4" light weight track[1 1/4" will be noticeably slower then a 1" on top speed]

-adjustable transfer rods...an absolute must for hook up

Gearing:

-run the 600 SX gear ratio

Clutching:

-athere are lots of setups in Turc's recommendations...this puts it all together and makes the difference wether the sled is a rocket or dog
Chassis:

-add a Boss seat...lighter and goes good with the higher bars...you won't be diappointed



JM.02c

Bob
 
hey thanks for the feed back guys! The reason i had wanted to get rid of the air box is because it is cracked from when I rolled the sled last year Does the air box really make that big of a difference over pod filters? As far as reed spacers i thought they were obsolete when you notch out the stoppers?
 
From what I've read, the spacers and the notch do the same thing. Problem with the notch is that there is a very fine line between having it right and cutting it too thin causing it to break (someone did a good writeup on this but can't remember who it was. Could have been Musselman or Snowdad) Do exactly what these guys said to do, they know their stuff and have been wrenching on these things for a long time.
Stay away from the pods they will be a pia to deal with. Clutch it and ride it.

Is it winter yet????????
 
The air box provides a more consistant air flow velocoty. With the pods, your jetting will be very finicky with temp changes.
The stopper notch works good, but the air still has to travel past the reed tip, then backwards to the port. The spacers move the entire cage back so the air just has to go in and up to the port. Essentially, the entire reed cqge sits in too far, and needs to be spaced outward.
After doing all these mods, keep a good eye on your plug color, especially on cold days, until you feel comfortable with the jetting.
 
ottawaair said:
The air box provides a more consistant air flow velocoty. With the pods, your jetting will be very finicky with temp changes.
The stopper notch works good, but the air still has to travel past the reed tip, then backwards to the port. The spacers move the entire cage back so the air just has to go in and up to the port. Essentially, the entire reed cqge sits in too far, and needs to be spaced outward.
After doing all these mods, keep a good eye on your plug color, especially on cold days, until you feel comfortable with the jetting.
Click to expand...
;)! 3:16 (yammie tony)
 
If ya go with the notch, here are some pictures of the notches on my kids sled. They are more than likely on the 'safer end of the stick'. As far a cut job goes. Not close to any edges.
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?p=588056&posted=1#post588056
My stopper that was notch in this thread below, was taken off and thrown away. Bought a couple of used stoppers and the final outcome is in the above thread. They shouldn't vibrate and break at all.
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=70681&page=3&pp=20&highlight=reed+notch
 
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From reading the replies, looks like you got most of the good advice already. I would only add that this motor is a severely under tuned engine stock. Do the reed spacers, jet it down a little bit and clutch it and it will run quite well even with the stock pipe. You can always add the larger srx/viper reed cages to it, some trail porting,mod the pistons,light pins and just a single layer removed from headgasket and have a pretty stout little sleeper trail sled. They sure run good with minor mods.
 
Any gain Don from adding stock srx reed cages if you don't port the cylinders? I have a few sets kicking around
 
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