2000 Sxr 700-please help a novice cleaning carbs-questions

yankeeslover

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Dec 18, 2008
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i have a 2000 sxr 700... I have only been riding for four seasons now..sled only has 2500 miles on it... every fall around thanksgiving time i take to my local mechanic how cleans my carbs,greases my suspension and gets the sled ready.. problem is i get charged about $150-200 to have them do this. Long story short, I cant afford this anymore, so I have to learn to do myself... I am the worse mechanic out there, i cant work on engines, i can build a PC, but keep me away from a motor.. I have some basic questions for you do it yourselfers. I have read the tech board on here to a T the last few nights, read all the instructions on cleaning carbs and it seems pretty easy... but i do have some more questions...
when i take the carbs off, i remember years ago on another yamaha sled that someone mentioned you have to be careful taking off the choke cable? i think you had to keep it open to keep the plunger or something intact, is that the case with this sled? if so please explain what to do there, once again im not handy at all and dont want to screw that up... second, what do i do with the float thingy in there? the tech page says to leave it alone, is this true? can i clean the carbs and bypass that whole float thing? i dont want to bend it... and last but not least, what is the procedure? i fog my sled every spring, i also keep gas in there with stabelizer, im gonna get fresh gas in there, but do i start the sled first before i clean carbs, or clean them first then mess with getting it started and all the fogging oil and old gas run thru? oh and i forget, my first season i had some idle hang which i hear is normal with these sleds, mechanic last winter said he turned up the fuel screw or something underneath to help with this, should i just get the manual and go with factory specs for everything in the carbs? and how in the world do i sync the carbs? is that something that is requried? i dont know if im skilled enough to sync carbs....im sorry this is way to long..thanks for the help
 
X2 on read the tech section. Theres a few write ups with pictures. As far as "skipping the float thing"......I did that one time, Sled burned down center cylinder 3 miles later. If you think you cant afford to pay a mechanic.......you REALLY cant afford to half *** clean carbs. I was leary my first time and I am mechanically inclined, I have re-built several small block chevy engines, several automatics transmission and have built a half a dozen mud trucks from the ground up. Read the "how tos" a few times. Have some one with clean hands run the computer and refer to them while doing it. Maybe some one local will volunteerto come supervise. Once you do them you will think how bad you have ben getting shafted shelling out that kind of dough!
 
The float thing is an easy cure... There is a pin that slides and holds it in place, you can slide the pin out and remove the float so it doesn't get bent, but becareful as the needle is attached to the float, so when you pull the pin lift the float and needle out carefully and you should be good to go (NOTE HOW THE NEEDLE ATTACHES TO THE FLOAT!!!). I use gumout carb cleaner to blow through the jets/circuits and disolve any varnish. Use good tools also to remove the float bowl DONT use a cheap hardware store screwdriver as you will possibly strip the screw heads... Dont be skiddish just take your time... if you get stuck come back here and ask. Good Luck!
 
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Some more posts to read about carb cleaning. Read them, you'll thank yourself. If you get freaked out about something......Stop! Ask questions before you do something wrong. There is a reason why this is the best forum on the web. Everyone on here is here to help each other.
Carbs are really easy to clean once you get the hang of it. Like Devil said....you'll be pissed at how much money you've spent paying someone else to do it. Plus, you'll have a better understanding on how things work.

http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/search.php?searchid=1332489
 
couple questions

since I fogged sled.. do I try to start it first then clean, or clean carbs then start up sled? also the one thing im afraid of is the cables, I understand I take off padding on the steering, does the oil pump and throttle cable just come right throttle easy? and the tech page says to slightly loosen the nut on the throttle and choke cable, I will slighty do that, but then how do those cables come off? I hate readjustment and want to avoid that as much as possible? last but not least when I disc the heated carbs, do they have to be bled?
 
there a screw on the choke linkage needs to come off,after slightly loosening nut the cable end comes out of the carb linkage by unscrewing the cable at the top of threads,whole cable will turn.hold throttle lever open and then hold cam on carbs with other hand,release flipper,this will put slack in line and cable will come out of cam,im doing this soon and could show ya some pics if you want,after you do it once it is really easy
 
yankeeslover said:
since I fogged sled.. do I try to start it first then clean, or clean carbs then start up sled? also the one thing im afraid of is the cables, I understand I take off padding on the steering, does the oil pump and throttle cable just come right throttle easy? and the tech page says to slightly loosen the nut on the throttle and choke cable, I will slighty do that, but then how do those cables come off? I hate readjustment and want to avoid that as much as possible? last but not least when I disc the heated carbs, do they have to be bled?
Clean carbs before starting sled. Take the cables off (throttle and choke) at the carbs. Depress the throttle at the bars. Like dsc577 said, you'll see the the other end of the cable is connected to a cam that looks like a triangle. It does have a fair amount of tension, so watch your fingers. Hold that cam in the UP position and pull the end of the cable out of it's little slot. Same with the choke on the right side of the carbs. I usually just break the nuts free slightly on the plates that the cables screw into. Then, unscrew the cables, pull to the side and remove. When you install them, screw the cables back on and tighten up the nuts. That way things don't get too far out of adjustment. Check your freeplay on throttle at the bars and make sure the chokes are opening up and releasing like they should by looking at the choke rod on the carbs. You adjust the freeplay by threading the cables in or out.
Just my .02
 


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