If I add a DG performance exhaust to my 90 Phazer 2, what changes need to be done to the jetting for low elevation riding? Any opinions on this exhaust vs PSI or Aaen?
Psi or Bender would be my choice if you could find one of those pipes. I have no experience of Aeen or DG but i guess they do their job
When it comes to changes see the exciter knowledge 101 thread or stanage exciter transformation there is alot of clutching and jetting tips in there.
U might need to go up in mainjet size a bit to be on the safe side if u use a pipe though (one or two steps) Maybe move the needle clip a bit, do a plugchop if you are insecure, the result of this tell you if you´re safe or not.
When it comes to changes see the exciter knowledge 101 thread or stanage exciter transformation there is alot of clutching and jetting tips in there.
U might need to go up in mainjet size a bit to be on the safe side if u use a pipe though (one or two steps) Maybe move the needle clip a bit, do a plugchop if you are insecure, the result of this tell you if you´re safe or not.
Saw a really nice PSI pipe on eBay for pretty cheap.
thefullmonte
New member
Dynotech Research phazer pipe shootout
The Aaen pipe was the most preferred for the Phazers. Or, that is what everyone ran in my area at the time. Had the torque pipe on my 95 ST (long track 136" LOL) which was the same HP as their quiet pipe. The pipes are not obnoxious and make really good usable power. That pipe did not make the sled finicky at all. They did recommend you wrap a section of the pipe and there was a snow block for the hood vent as well. I think I might still have the clutching and jetting specs at home. I will check for you.
The Aaen pipe was the most preferred for the Phazers. Or, that is what everyone ran in my area at the time. Had the torque pipe on my 95 ST (long track 136" LOL) which was the same HP as their quiet pipe. The pipes are not obnoxious and make really good usable power. That pipe did not make the sled finicky at all. They did recommend you wrap a section of the pipe and there was a snow block for the hood vent as well. I think I might still have the clutching and jetting specs at home. I will check for you.
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There's a ceramic coated Aaen on TY for sale!
I called DG and they told me to go up 2 sizes from stock. That's easy enough if you know what stock is. Anyone know what stock was on that sled? 144? 147? They also soid I should use lighter weights on the clutching to get the rpm's up.
What is a plug chop?
stock jetting would only apply if your running stock jetting. depending on your location, the sled may be set for elevation.
what you need to do is open the carbs and see what your jetting is now, and go from there. thats what they reference when they say 2 sizes over stock. (existing would be a better term assuming your sled is correctly jetted now).
your "plug chop" is more correctly referred to as a throttle chop to read your plugs and piston wash. short of it is to hold the throttle in a given position over a length of travel, kill the engine while holding this position. you will want to perform this test with 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and full throttle so 4 passes basically. minimum of 500', if not longer. plenty of info on this site if you need more clarification.
stock jetting, as delivered from the factory, would consist of 143.8 mains and 95 pilots, good for up to 2000' elevation. you also need to factor in if any nozzle changes have been made to correct the lean spot or up the pilots.
what you need to do is open the carbs and see what your jetting is now, and go from there. thats what they reference when they say 2 sizes over stock. (existing would be a better term assuming your sled is correctly jetted now).
your "plug chop" is more correctly referred to as a throttle chop to read your plugs and piston wash. short of it is to hold the throttle in a given position over a length of travel, kill the engine while holding this position. you will want to perform this test with 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and full throttle so 4 passes basically. minimum of 500', if not longer. plenty of info on this site if you need more clarification.
stock jetting, as delivered from the factory, would consist of 143.8 mains and 95 pilots, good for up to 2000' elevation. you also need to factor in if any nozzle changes have been made to correct the lean spot or up the pilots.
auto2665 said:
So I went to take out the carbs on this phaser I just had bit mor I just had bit more complex than my V Max. what needs to com needs to come out first first before I can remove the carbs? What is the easiest way to remove the air box
just to the left and forward of the fuel lid you will see a tab about 1"x3". under this tab are the bolts securing the air box. you will see a slot on one side of the tab to insert a prying device.
secondary clutch needs to come off and there is a snorkel type affair on the right of the air box that notches around the steering column. you can twist and remove this or just twist it to clear the column.
with the carb boot clamps loosened and the airbox bolts and secondary clutch removed, its a matter of pulling back and sideways and wiggling it out. takes a time or two doing this and it becomes second nature. not as bad as it appears once you do it.
secondary clutch needs to come off and there is a snorkel type affair on the right of the air box that notches around the steering column. you can twist and remove this or just twist it to clear the column.
with the carb boot clamps loosened and the airbox bolts and secondary clutch removed, its a matter of pulling back and sideways and wiggling it out. takes a time or two doing this and it becomes second nature. not as bad as it appears once you do it.
Love the Phazer air box. That's why I threw mine away and went to pods and flatslide carbs.
. That's why I threw mine away and went to pods and flatslide carbs.How the heck does the belt come off of the phazer? This is nothing like the newer Yamahas.
thefullmonte
New member
Take the sheaves of the secondary and twist them in opposite directions. The back side will go clockwise. While doing this push the back side away from stationary sheave. This will allow the belt to fall and have enough slack to remove.
DG performance
If not, I'm sure somebody here at Totallyamaha can recomend something for you.
Link: http://dgperformance.com/dg-performance-models2.php?category=Yamaha&model=Phazer
Price: $249,95
Great price !
Probably there is jetting instructions with the pipe.auto2665 said:
If not, I'm sure somebody here at Totallyamaha can recomend something for you.
Link: http://dgperformance.com/dg-performance-models2.php?category=Yamaha&model=Phazer
Price: $249,95
Great price !