I have gotten yes and no advice as to whether I need to change to 8 tooth drivers to stud a 1.25 Ripsaw in an SRX.
So I guess I have to seriously look at the 8 tooth change..is there a how to written some where? What do I need? Should I get extrovert drivers? Should I change the gearing and if so what parts will that require?
was hoping to avoid the 8 tooth switch but definitely want to stud and don't want to take any chances that my studs will hit my cooler...
So I guess I have to seriously look at the 8 tooth change..is there a how to written some where? What do I need? Should I get extrovert drivers? Should I change the gearing and if so what parts will that require?
was hoping to avoid the 8 tooth switch but definitely want to stud and don't want to take any chances that my studs will hit my cooler...
You do not need to run 8 tooth drivers.
you can run 1.185 roetin or 1.175 woodys studs with a ripsaw.
you will need gaurds front and back
you will need tunnel protectors, I recomend the polaris style aluminum gaurds. get the longest version, you can install them right up to the front. This helps keep the tank from bowing the tunnel down.
you will need to remove about 1/2in from the track where the guards will hit the track. The sled was designed around a 3/4 in track, anything above that needs to be removed or it will drag along the guards, you need to cut them, They will not wear down in any normal amount of time and it will kill the mileage doing so.
The studs will stick through 3/16-1/4 above the lug. This is a great depth for trail riding. (I know, the math doesn't work out) If you want more penetration, shave 1/8in off the tips of your lugs (it is not needed)
Do not use 8 tooth drivers. They kill speed, and cause track tension issues.
I have installed many 1 1/4 tracks studded into pro actions with these studs. The worst they will do is rub the tunnel just under the tank.
you can run 1.185 roetin or 1.175 woodys studs with a ripsaw.
you will need gaurds front and back
you will need tunnel protectors, I recomend the polaris style aluminum gaurds. get the longest version, you can install them right up to the front. This helps keep the tank from bowing the tunnel down.
you will need to remove about 1/2in from the track where the guards will hit the track. The sled was designed around a 3/4 in track, anything above that needs to be removed or it will drag along the guards, you need to cut them, They will not wear down in any normal amount of time and it will kill the mileage doing so.
The studs will stick through 3/16-1/4 above the lug. This is a great depth for trail riding. (I know, the math doesn't work out) If you want more penetration, shave 1/8in off the tips of your lugs (it is not needed)
Do not use 8 tooth drivers. They kill speed, and cause track tension issues.
I have installed many 1 1/4 tracks studded into pro actions with these studs. The worst they will do is rub the tunnel just under the tank.
X2 as Betheviper states...I didnt have the same luck with a Camo Predetor 1 1/4 but lots of miles with the Ripsaw 1 1/4 w/1.175 Woodys with NO issues.
Thanks guys..
BeTheViper..do you have a part number for those Polaris tunnel protectors? Or the model and year tHey come off of?
BeTheViper..do you have a part number for those Polaris tunnel protectors? Or the model and year tHey come off of?
automatic distributors has them as part number lm-4121 came on mid 90s polaris sleds.