crimsonride
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Guess you guys have waited long enough to see this...Turbo charged, 151" exciter.
Figured it was time to show you guys what I've been messing with for a while
Warning! I am too stupid to resize these pictures...they're huge!
....and today's ride just to make you guys jealous.
Figured it was time to show you guys what I've been messing with for a while
Warning! I am too stupid to resize these pictures...they're huge!
....and today's ride just to make you guys jealous.
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crimsonride
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maybe someone could help me resize those?
toydoc
Member
That should be fun. What updates did you do to the motor?
Well what can i say? This is just awesome, talk about candy for my eyes!!! I hope you understand that u must get some video on that monster
Very cool.. nice job!!
thefullmonte
New member
Sweet project!
More details. Lol How deep of a lug track did you use and how did you get it too fit?
What type of turbo and how much boost?
Thanks
More details. Lol How deep of a lug track did you use and how did you get it too fit?
What type of turbo and how much boost?
Thanks
crimsonride
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The track is a 151 x 2", I had to move to 7 tooth drivers off a phazer to clear the front heat exchanger. I made lowering brackets to drop the rear skid. That cleared most of the heat exchangers and raised the back end. Now I'm moving the heat exchangers outboard. When I went to the 7 tooth drivers I pressed four drivers onto the driveshaft instead of the usual two to avoid ratcheting. I ran it like this with a 144 for a season and it ripped! I also geared down the chain case but I can't remember what the tooth count is. I'm sure I'll have to change it with the turbo and 151.
I ran it with the turbo for just a few runs at 4 psi... the old turbo system that I found had a "analog" system...it basically boosted to four PSI and then kicked in an extra four PSI of fuel pressure.... this basically meant if you weren't at full boost you were either lean or rich. I've rebuilt the fuel system with a linear system with a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator that will maintain a 1:1 fuel pressure increase with the boost. I will be running it at 12 PSI boost. I fun straight 114 race fuel in my other sled so I'll probably just run that in this thing.
It's an Aerodyne Turbo... one of the old variable vane style ones. Hopefully it doesn't burn out too quick.
I ran it with the turbo for just a few runs at 4 psi... the old turbo system that I found had a "analog" system...it basically boosted to four PSI and then kicked in an extra four PSI of fuel pressure.... this basically meant if you weren't at full boost you were either lean or rich. I've rebuilt the fuel system with a linear system with a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator that will maintain a 1:1 fuel pressure increase with the boost. I will be running it at 12 PSI boost. I fun straight 114 race fuel in my other sled so I'll probably just run that in this thing.
It's an Aerodyne Turbo... one of the old variable vane style ones. Hopefully it doesn't burn out too quick.
crimsonride
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Prankster... I will get your some video soon as I run it. I've been watching your build for some time and decided it was time to come out of the closet.
I still have a lot to do. Vmax struts.... wiring and fuel lines still... I've ordered my power jets and UFO's for the carbs.... that's going to take some doing as well. Then there's going to be the clutching and gearing... that's going to be a whole nother beast!
I still have a lot to do. Vmax struts.... wiring and fuel lines still... I've ordered my power jets and UFO's for the carbs.... that's going to take some doing as well. Then there's going to be the clutching and gearing... that's going to be a whole nother beast!
crimsonride
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Oh yeah. To do the track extension I used an old exciter skid that had a welded in 121" to 136" extension. I then relocated the skid back about four inches to get to 144" then I added a set of bolt on extensions to the skid to get to 151". Approach angle is incredibly low and the skid tips are high enough up there's not chance of stabbing. Because it was so light it spanked big bore sleds as a 144" we'll see how it does as a turbo'd 151".
Before the turbo and 151" it was right at 400 lbs.
Before the turbo and 151" it was right at 400 lbs.
thefullmonte
New member
Very informative thank you. With the 7 tooth driver did the track still hit the coolers in the tunnel? I'm doing a 136 X 2 and was just curious. I will be doing drop brackets for the rear, but wasn't sure if I needed to lower the front a bit as well. Would be curious what your final gearing was as well. How did you do your 2 wheel kit? I think I have a plan, but always good to hear other ideas. Thanks
crimsonride said:The track is a 151 x 2", I had to move to 7 tooth drivers off a phazer to clear the front heat exchanger. I made lowering brackets to drop the rear skid. That cleared most of the heat exchangers and raised the back end. Now I'm moving the heat exchangers outboard. When I went to the 7 tooth drivers I pressed four drivers onto the driveshaft instead of the usual two to avoid ratcheting. I ran it like this with a 144 for a season and it ripped! I also geared down the chain case but I can't remember what the tooth count is. I'm sure I'll have to change it with the turbo and 151.
I ran it with the turbo for just a few runs at 4 psi... the old turbo system that I found had a "analog" system...it basically boosted to four PSI and then kicked in an extra four PSI of fuel pressure.... this basically meant if you weren't at full boost you were either lean or rich. I've rebuilt the fuel system with a linear system with a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator that will maintain a 1:1 fuel pressure increase with the boost. I will be running it at 12 PSI boost. I fun straight 114 race fuel in my other sled so I'll probably just run that in this thing.
It's an Aerodyne Turbo... one of the old variable vane style ones. Hopefully it doesn't burn out too quick.
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crimsonride
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Yes. The track did still rub the front of the tunnel coolers. It even started wearing the aluminum fins down some. I ended up notching the track to clear them. I'm either going to place them outboard this time around or switch to a U-cooler or something.
Just a side note; lowering the front mount of the skid wouldn't gain you anything since the track rests on the rear mounts bogey wheels and the top of the drivers. Lowering the front mount would only increase your track approach angle....and no one wants that.
The two wheel kit is all the stock parts. I just cut the shaft down, drilled and tapped the end of it for the bolt. then Cut the sleeves to position the second wheel. It was super easy and only took about an hour to make.
Just a side note; lowering the front mount of the skid wouldn't gain you anything since the track rests on the rear mounts bogey wheels and the top of the drivers. Lowering the front mount would only increase your track approach angle....and no one wants that.
The two wheel kit is all the stock parts. I just cut the shaft down, drilled and tapped the end of it for the bolt. then Cut the sleeves to position the second wheel. It was super easy and only took about an hour to make.
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©RxSX
New member
crimsonride said:Yes. The track did still rub the front of the tunnel coolers. It even started wearing the aluminum fins down some.
Nice project.
Why don't you just take out a section of the coolers to shorten them up a bit?
crimsonride said:Prankster... I will get your some video soon as I run it. I've been watching your build for some time and decided it was time to come out of the closet.
Well i´m glad u did, and what an opening!!! I must say u made my day with this one I´m really looking forward to the vid when it comes. I´m in the progress to finish up my hydraulic brake conversion now. Working on the e start at the same time, also changed my track for the season to a 1,5" with 8 tooth drivers. Hopefully i will be ready for the first real snow that is here in a couple of weeks Good luck with your work and as u already know... I will follow it with great interest
thefullmonte said:I'm doing a 136 X 2 and was just curious. I will be doing drop brackets for the rear, but wasn't sure if I needed to lower the front a bit as well. s
I was told that u must lower the front half to what u lower back, i lowered about 2" in the back and about 1 inch in the front. Don´t know if that is the way to do it but it worked out for me.
prankster said:I changed my track for the season to a 1,5" with 8 tooth drivers.
FYI:prankster said:I lowered about 2" in the back and about 1" in the front.
Do not know if that is the way to do it but it worked out for me.
The combination of smaller drivers and dropping the front mount of the skid is not a good combination for the track approach angle !!
The above combination will increase your track approach angle.
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crimsonride
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Lasse is right. You're bringing up the front radius of the track when you switch to 7T drivers and lowering the "on ground" front portion of the track... makes for a less than desirable approach angle. I'm not sure how much this affects you guys but here in the west it kills us in the deep snow.
I've heard a lot of people say that you should lower the front mount half of the rear but I haven't heard anyone give any good reason as to why. Maybe it's because the front mount is about half the distance from the ski mounts as the rear mount? If that's the case I guess it would make good sense. In either case I only lowered my front mount about 1/2" but it's also moved rearward about 4". I can get some pictures of the mounts and approach angle if anyone wants it.
I've heard a lot of people say that you should lower the front mount half of the rear but I haven't heard anyone give any good reason as to why. Maybe it's because the front mount is about half the distance from the ski mounts as the rear mount? If that's the case I guess it would make good sense. In either case I only lowered my front mount about 1/2" but it's also moved rearward about 4". I can get some pictures of the mounts and approach angle if anyone wants it.
crimsonride
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P.S. Prankster.... I NEED a writeup of the brake conversion!!! I've been needing that modification for a while. When I took the first rip on this thing with the turbo my first thought was "I need a better brake!"
I have some trouble with my pixbox, it seems like I need to find another place to link my pics from... Check inbox u got pm crimson
kev45sk8
New member
i'm sure interested in seeing the photos of your approach angle. i am in process adjusting my skid right now i want the front skis to lift when i hit the gaz
Yeah my switch to 8 tooth will probably include some adjustments too so more pics would be great, lasse stated earlier an angle between 17-19 degrees. That's what I'm going for. BTW it would be fun with more info regarding the turbo build, more pics then those footrests where can I get a couple of those?